RE: Re: 1:32 marker lamps
I have not seen any 1:32 marker lamps other than the ones on the few US prototype Asters. Trackside Details has some 1:24th scale in brass and of course Ozark has them in 1:24th in white metal. GaryB
Re: SILVER SOLDERING BOILERS
Hello Everyone, This is in regard to a previous message where I couldn't think of the mix of gas that we use on our burn table. I looked today and made two discoveries. 1.) The large stainless tanks are oxygen. (duh! you can tell I don't use the burn table much, huh?) 2.) Propylene was the mix, and was in a bottle the same size that Acetylene typically comes. It has a very high BTU rating, so it should work great for boiler making purposes. (although, I'm certainly no expert) Our office manager was out today so I couldn't get a cost comparison. Just thought this might help someone while trying different materials and methods. Later, Trent
Re: 1:32 marker lamps
Aristocraft also sells caboose marker lights. I believe they also have engine lights, but they are plastic and might not last on a live steamer Walt
Re: Newbie Questions
Check with your club as to their requirements for Hydro testing a locomotive. Some require 2 times working pressure and others 1 1/2 times working pressure. 2 1/2 times is a lot! The Pa. Live Steamers just bought their own calibrated club gauge and require all locos to be hydroed once a year except for Gauge 1 which this list is all about. The PLS requirements say plug the safeties and pressurize to 1 1/2 times the working pressure. Then check the safeties to see that they lift properly. They record all the results and keep them on file. Phil.P. Reading,Pa. > I'm hoping to fire my loco soon, but I'm missing a few answers. I bought a > second hand loco, so I don't have much to refer to outside of this list. > > 1) I followed the discussions about Steam Oil, but nobody answered my > question what it's for. Where do I use it? Do I need more than one grade > of oil to operate and lube a Live Steamer? > > 2) I have to do a Hydra Test on my loco PRIOR to having it recorded at my > club. I thought I was told to test it at 2 1/2 times the operating > pressure, but somebody told me only 1 1/2 times. What would the test be > done at? > > 3) I was told to start a fire first with waste cotton soaked in kerosene. > Somebody else recently told me to use charcoal. Is it customary to soak the > charcoal in kerosene also? And what would "soaking" refer to? Actually > letting charcoal "soak" in a can of kero or simply pouring enough over it > for it to be well absorbed? I would think that charcoal would break down if > allowed to soak. > > 4) As far as coal, I was told that my loco burns "pea" coal. When I bought > it, the previous owner sent a can of coal with nuggets about 1/2" in size. > However, I was watching someone at my club fire their loco with nuggets more > in the 1/2" - 3/4" size so I'm wondering if the coal that I got with mine > was merely for display purposes? > > Regards, > -Wayne > >
Re: Decals/dry transfers
This is one of those things that could start a pretty good thread. I think we did this not to long ago. 2 months? In any case,I've never had much luck with dry transfers.I've gotten great results on 9 letters of a 10 letter word and 1 letter lifts or moves or totally P--- me off. Making decals has gone much better for me. Once you get a technique down for making them , you can make them quickly and even if you mess one up putting it on, doing it over again is easy and quick. Also you can make some pretty fancy decals with the soft ware available now. You can buy 2 basic kinds of decal paper now. The one kind will work on ink jet printers and the other on a special printer made by Alps. The paper is cheaper for the Alps and you can make white and other metallic colors using the Alps you can't do on a standard ink jet. The problem is you're buying a special printer and the low price Alps are no longer available new. The Alps uses special ribbons by the way. By the way,Vance has done a lot of this kind of work and is good at it. He may have some additional insight into this subject. Phil.P. Reading,Pa. > Hey guys: > > I'm planning on doing some lettering for engines and rolling stock. I've > seen dry transfer work that looked picture perfect and I have a miniscule > working knowledge of decals. I wanted to get some feedback from experienced > folks on the pros and cons of each type of application. I plan to apply to > distressed, painted wood in some applications, ribbed painted wood (box > cars) ribbed painted plastic, and smooth, painted brass. > > Thank you in advance for your advice. > > Jim Curry > > > >
Re: 1:32 marker lamps
There are a couple of sources. The ones I got can be gotten through Walthers made by USA trains. They're less than $10.00 for a pair of decent looking plastic markers and come with light bulbs. The lenses are red and green. Phil.P. Reading,Pa. > Guys: > > Beat me with a wet noodle but I can't figure out the thread where someone > was talking about a source for 1:32 scale caboose/engine marker lamps. > Help! > > Jim > >
Re: 1:32 marker lamps
Guys: Beat me with a wet noodle but I can't figure out the thread where someone was talking about a source for 1:32 scale caboose/engine marker lamps. Help! Jim
Decals/dry transfers
Hey guys: I'm planning on doing some lettering for engines and rolling stock. I've seen dry transfer work that looked picture perfect and I have a miniscule working knowledge of decals. I wanted to get some feedback from experienced folks on the pros and cons of each type of application. I plan to apply to distressed, painted wood in some applications, ribbed painted wood (box cars) ribbed painted plastic, and smooth, painted brass. Thank you in advance for your advice. Jim Curry
Re: Newbie Questions
Hallo Wayne, I missed your first message but I can help in some small way, I hope! 1. You use the steam oil for the valves and cyls via the lubricator-mechanical or displacement. You need a light to medium non-detergent oil for the external moving parts, depending on the scale of your loco 2. I'll pass 3. What scale is your loco?? I am sure cotton waste is not advisable--charcoal soaked in kerosene or the commercial charcaol lighter fuel is the way to go. You can soak the charcoal for a few minutes which is better than just pouring kerosene over it--practice makes perfect! I have never had kero or lighter fluid break down the charcoal! Any way, some charcoal is "self lighting" 4. With that size coal you must be in the 3/4" scale on up. If this is the case I suggest you go to the larger scale Mini-steam E Group and ask your questions. http://www.egroups.com/group/mini-steam/info.html Good luck, Geoff. I'm hoping to fire my loco soon, but I'm missing a few answers. I bought a >second hand loco, so I don't have much to refer to outside of this list. > >1) I followed the discussions about Steam Oil, but nobody answered my >question what it's for. Where do I use it? Do I need more than one grade >of oil to operate and lube a Live Steamer? > >2) I have to do a Hydra Test on my loco PRIOR to having it recorded at my >club. I thought I was told to test it at 2 1/2 times the operating >pressure, but somebody told me only 1 1/2 times. What would the test be >done at? > >3) I was told to start a fire first with waste cotton soaked in kerosene. >Somebody else recently told me to use charcoal. Is it customary to soak the >charcoal in kerosene also? And what would "soaking" refer to? Actually >letting charcoal "soak" in a can of kero or simply pouring enough over it >for it to be well absorbed? I would think that charcoal would break down if >allowed to soak. > >4) As far as coal, I was told that my loco burns "pea" coal. When I bought >it, the previous owner sent a can of coal with nuggets about 1/2" in size. >However, I was watching someone at my club fire their loco with nuggets more >in the 1/2" - 3/4" size so I'm wondering if the coal that I got with mine >was merely for display purposes? > >Regards, > -Wayne >
Re: SILVER SOLDERING BOILERS
Tips from an old weldor. NEVER ever attempt to use a torch on concrete. Concrete will explode and send small pieces in the air and some usually come in contact with body parts causing pain and injury. (I know this from experience) Dry sand, and I emphasize "dry" works well for supporting work while soldering or brazing and will act as a heat sink. If you can't find refractory bricks there is a pourable (sp?) refractory material available that can be made into just about any shape. As for torches, my personal preference is oxy/acetylene because one can concentrate the heat in a smaller area and it also can be used for welding and cutting steel. I have a number of different torch and gas combinations and seem to always revert to the oxy/acetylene. The smoke can be a problem but can be contained if you have a vent system. Bob's suggestion about using heat stop or Ruby Sand is right on the money. There is another product called "yellow orche paste" that can be used to protect previously silver soldered joints. In jewelry making there are a number of different silver solders with progressive heat ranges starting at the high end about 1500 degrees and working down to 1125 degrees. If you start your first solder joints with the high (hard solder) solder and work down to the lower ranges (easy solder)for the last joints you will not be melting the first joints while completing your project. All this stuff is available from jewelry making suppliers. I hope that this is of some help. Salty.
Re: Steam Oil Sources
Mr. Kaiser, Please tell me where I can get 5 gallons delivered for under $16.00 -- the cost of a few (two) quarts retail. Thanks, Walt
Re: Steam Oil Sources
On Sat, 29 Apr 2000 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > Currently I use the steam oil sold by Sulphur Springs. Short of buying a 55 > gallon drum from Chevron are there other suppliers of steam oil in small > quantities (one quart) in the U.S.? It's a lot cheaper to buy 55 gallons at a time, but you can get a 5 gallon can easily enough for not much more than a few quarts bought separately. -- Bill Kaiser [EMAIL PROTECTED] There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick. You can have any two. A good, cheap job won't be quick. A good, quick job won't be cheap. A cheap, quick job won't be good.
Newbie Questions
I'm hoping to fire my loco soon, but I'm missing a few answers. I bought a second hand loco, so I don't have much to refer to outside of this list. 1) I followed the discussions about Steam Oil, but nobody answered my question what it's for. Where do I use it? Do I need more than one grade of oil to operate and lube a Live Steamer? 2) I have to do a Hydra Test on my loco PRIOR to having it recorded at my club. I thought I was told to test it at 2 1/2 times the operating pressure, but somebody told me only 1 1/2 times. What would the test be done at? 3) I was told to start a fire first with waste cotton soaked in kerosene. Somebody else recently told me to use charcoal. Is it customary to soak the charcoal in kerosene also? And what would "soaking" refer to? Actually letting charcoal "soak" in a can of kero or simply pouring enough over it for it to be well absorbed? I would think that charcoal would break down if allowed to soak. 4) As far as coal, I was told that my loco burns "pea" coal. When I bought it, the previous owner sent a can of coal with nuggets about 1/2" in size. However, I was watching someone at my club fire their loco with nuggets more in the 1/2" - 3/4" size so I'm wondering if the coal that I got with mine was merely for display purposes? Regards, -Wayne
