Re: Accucraft C-16

2001-09-09 Thread Gary Broeder

Vance, Eric and others,

Regarding the slip of drivers on code 215 NS rail or any other material or
size rail: The main problem, when there is one , is  the  material of the
driver or tire. Stainless steel drivers seem to slip more than others. My
Pannier 0-6-0 with such drivers would slip easier than my Steamlines 0-6-0
with cast iron drivers.  Some folks say aluminum rail is worse. Seems to
depend on how much oil is on the rail. Some rail has a flat top resulting is
less of a contact patch than others. Other rails have a radius on the top,
as do prototype rails, resulting in a larger contact patch which should
improve traction.

Regarding RC. I took out the standard RC in my Fowler some years ago do to
the throttle wag  from glitching. It worked much better with manual control.
I finally had a chance to try the RCS system when I installed one in a
friend's Daylight. I was quite impressed. The system works really well with
zero glitching. "It only speaks when spoken to."

The programmable limits on both throttle and reverser are a bonus. For the
antenna I screwed the shortened wire to the aluminum coach body where the
Receiver and battery are located. The coach is insulated from the track by
delrin ( plastic) side frames. I tried other antenna arrangements but this
seemed best.

I was so impressed I bought another  and will install it in my Fowler.
Although I do prefer  "hands on" it is a bit of fun to have RC in at least 1
loco.

GaryB
 



Re: Accucraft C-16

2001-09-09 Thread Eric Maschwitz

Vance-

I know three people with Accucraft C-16's two of them have installed RC gear
the other (Harlan Barr)  kept his manual.  One thing that both people with
RC did was drop a sealed gel-cel battery directly into the water in the
tender to power the RC gear.  RC in the C-16 is tricky. I have yet to see
the Johnson bar get successfully controlled by a servo.  The problem that
both folks had was that J-bar would periodically get jammed after the engine
heated up.  One guy was also having huge problems with glitching.  The
glitching combined with the easily jammable J-bar resulted in great
frustration as the loco would screech to a halt in the middle of the run.
Both folks would end up running the engine by throttle control only.  The
C-16 runs good though, and it is strong -- easily pulling 20+ cars on level
track.  The only other draw back is that the drivers easily slip on certain
types of track.  I can tell you that code 215 nickel silver track wont
provide much grip.  It sure is a good looking engine though.  I'm thinking I
might get one myself.

-Eric M.

> From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 22:23:08 -0600
> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Accucraft C-16

> I got my live steam Accucraft C-16 last night (finally!).  It's the old-timer,
> No. 
> 42, and beautifully done.  But I do have some questions and observations I
> would like to share with you.
> 
> I note that the footplate extension (that flap between the cab floor and the
> tender) is hinged at the bottom of the side floors, rather than the middle
> well 
> where the firebox it.  In other words, it does not extend over to the tender,
> but 
> just hangs down about 1/2" too high, does nothing useful, and probably gets in
> the way of various operations in the cab.  Are they all attached this way?
> What have you done about it?  Looks like I'll need to remove the pivot rod,
> drill 
> out the cab mounting brackets at their bottoms, and put in some kind of boss
> for the rod to go through.  Cotter pins come to mind.
> 
> The headlight looks very nice, but since it's not electrified, they left out
> the 
> bulb, so there's a black hole in the center of the reflector.  I removed the
> headlight and bracket (4 screws), then removed the headlight from the bracket
> (another 4 screws) and then removed the bottom plate from the headlight
> casting (two more screws).  Seems like it would be relatively easy to insert a
> yellow LED and a tiny battery in there, with a micro switch out the bottom.
> Has anyone done this already, and if so would you share recommendations?
> 
> The tender is huge, with lots of room for water and a hand pump and/or R/C
> gear.  Except that they seem to have brazed the whole thing together and you
> can't get into the body unless you cut a hole up through the floor.  Before I
> remove the frame and trucks to attempt this, do we have any other alternatives
> to getting into the tender body that I haven't discovered?
> 
> Putting R/C in this one is going to be a big job, it appears.  In addition to
> the 
> inaccessible tender tank, the coal bin is filled with a really large gas tank
> (which is good) so there is no room for R/C gear there (too bad).  The cab is
> stuffed full of other appliances and the crew floors are higher than the
> footplate, so there's even less room in there than in the Ruby for servos, let
> alone a battery pack and RX.  And the steam regulator handle sticks way out
> the back of the cab. which is going to make placing a servo ... um ...
> interesting.  The instructions, which I suspect were not written by the loco's
> designer, mention that it wasn't designed with R/C in mind (duh!) and that
> installing R/C will take some "ingenuity".  Yep.
> 
> You won't believe this one.  The coupler height is low, set at the Kadee "G"-
> scale gauge height.  What?!?  Looks like some hacking of the rear tender
> beam will be in order.  Maybe I should just go for all link-and-pin
> couplers
> 
> Now, I've got to get all those built-up boxcar kits painted, finish the
> caboose, 
> etc. etc., in addition to "improving" the loco to meet my standards.  If they
> would have only asked me first, they could have saved me so much trouble!  :-)
> 
> Haven't run it yet, so I can't comment on running characteristics, but it was
> obviously fired and run some so I trust it will be in pretty good adjustment.
> 
> regards,
> -vance-
> 
> Vance Bass   
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
> Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
> 
 



Re: HGTV Garden Railroad SHow

2001-09-09 Thread Trent Dowler

Don,

   Thanks for the heads-up. I've missed it each time it's aired.
   As a note to John, the time listed is for the USA. hgtv.com has a complete
listing.

Later,
Trent


> HGTV is airing a show tonight on garden railroading.  It's on at 5 PM
> Eastern Standard time.
 



Re: HGTV Garden Railroad SHow

2001-09-09 Thread John Simon

In which country

  73, John de VK2XGJ
  VK2XGJ Satellite Gateway
The early bird may get the worm
but the second mouse gets the cheese!



- Original Message - 
From: "Don Plasterer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2001 11:12 PM
Subject: HGTV Garden Railroad SHow


> HGTV is airing a show tonight on garden railroading.  It's on at 5 PM 
> Eastern Standard time.
> 
> Don
> 
> _
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>  
> 
 



HGTV Garden Railroad SHow

2001-09-09 Thread Don Plasterer

HGTV is airing a show tonight on garden railroading.  It's on at 5 PM 
Eastern Standard time.

Don

_
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