Re: Shaddock INDOOR LIVE STEAM
Bob, Which issue of Live Steam was that article in? Sounds worthy of a read. I have the plans for a 1.5" scale Shay that uses an "oil burner" which looks as though it too would be a simple conversion for small scale. That being said, I do realize that within the steam hobby there are some things that just do not scale properly. My spending cash seems to be one thing that doesn't scale properly. Big dreams, little cash. Later, Trent
Re: clearances
And just where should we send the memorials? This is gonna be good!! Later, Trent Jesse Grimmer wrote: >I am going to be brave and just tell her how it is going to be!! I won't be >denied!! > >
Re: Hogwart's Express
Geoff, Now you REALLY have my attention. Wood fired small scale, or large "ride-on" scale? Later, Trent Geoff Spenceley wrote: >Three scales, three gauges, steam, butane, >alcohol and coal, (wood once) sparkies, you name it! Lots of the "Hand of >God" powered too. >
Re: Stainless steel mesh for radiant burners
Kevin, Thanks for your update. Please, keep us (me) informed of any further information that might become available for the burner for your Jane. Although not an intensive experimenter, I'm quite intrigued with the thought of a similar burner design in my Jane. Later, Trent Kevin O'Connor wrote >One exception is the flat plate stainless steel radiant >burner that will take the place of the Cheddar type waffle weave ceramic >burners. I built a working model a couple of >years ago (it's in my butane Jane), but I want to push the design a bit >further before I raise the curtain on it. >
Stainless steel mesh for radiant burners
I purchase all my stainless steel mesh for use in my radiant burners from Small Parts in Florida. I did see that someone previously published the website for them. I generally use 20 or 22 mesh cloth as the emitter (the part that glows) and 60 to 80 mesh cloth to wrap the existing poker burner slots. If one would want to carry this line of design forward, I would suggest obtaining some 20 or so nichrome mesh cloth from Mc Master-Carr in Chicago. John Garrett suggested this approach to me prior to me building up his Aster Hudson burner, but I just flat out forgot about it until I was posting the unit to him. I will be more expensive, but it might last way longer at the white hot (2000 F) range. Personally I don't see the need for these elevated temperatures, and I run in the dull orange range (1500-1700 F) except for the Big Boy which I run in the bright to dull red range (1200-1400 F). Another slick approach might be to obtain some .010" to .015" diameter platinum wire and weave it into the "Conestoga" like "tent top", 20 or so stainless steel mesh, to act as a catalyst during the process of combustion. Cgnr tipped me off to this idea (platinum) in a Australian report that he referenced on this thread a while back when I first wrote about the subject. The Australian scientists are keen on platinum as a catalyst because they are trying to burn methane gas which has a couple of free radicals that gum up the combustion process. Personally I'm about engineered out of this radiant burner business as one of my rules is that 20% of the effort yields 80% of the result, and I really don't have the time to invest the other 80% of the effort to further guild the lily. One exception is the flat plate stainless steel radiant burner that will take the place of the Cheddar type waffle weave ceramic burners. Their advantage would be to free the American home machinist from dependence on the frangible and expensive porous ceramic, and to replace it with sturdy stainless steel components. I built a working model a couple of years ago (it's in my butane Jane), but I want to push the design a bit further before I raise the curtain on it. Let me say this about that: this approach will lead to a radiant poker burner that operates without gas transfer slots! That's a biggie for manufactures as cutting all those tiny slits in those stainless steel tubes is time consuming and expensive, and if they do it wrong (most do) the burners will whistle and groan ala Rubies and Aster Climaxes. Mine is as silent as a snake and I have christened it "Stinger". Those of you who wish to pursue the radiant poker burner concept need to revisit the pictures at http://southernsteamtrains.com because we have posted more photos of the burners, but not in operation. If you look closely at the Hudson burner you will see that there is a pattern to the cutout in the sleeve that constrains the mesh over the burner slots. This pattern constricts the flow of gas from the front of the burner and forces it backwards to burn evenly along the whole length of the poker. This even burning must be arrived at by trial and error for each type of gas poker burner (all Hudsons will be the same and all Rubies will be the same too, within their unique envelope). The original Ruby burners that I designed years ago did not have a straight "slash" from front to back in their stainless steel sleeve, but were rather a parabola, as in a very narrow opening at the far end of the burner that gradually widened as a function of a curve till the shape reached back to the burner body. I fiddled with this shape until the flame generation was uniform from one end of the burner to the other. I also replaced the stock #4 gas jet with a Calor #3 jet that both restricted the flow of fuel per unit of time, and increased the velocity of the gas through the burner's mixing chamber. Once this shape was documented all Ruby burners could be made to work properly, but the factory ignored the finer points, and so today the burners are hit or miss. Present Ruby owners can duplicate the original shape of the sleeve using K&S brass tubing, and with some experimentation can even out the flame, even with a #4 factory jet; it just takes patience. I have never made a radiant poker burner for my Ruby because I think that the flue is too small in diameter; I have a superheater tube in the flue as well. For those of you who will try to convert the Ruby burner to a radiant type be aware that NO PART of the radiating mesh should contact the flue's walls as this will lead to cooling of the mesh by conduction. KO-5
Re: Shaddock INDOOR LIVE STEAM
I would imagine that things would get pretty wet in his basement! I was in touch with his son a few years ago discussing his fathers kerosene burners that he designed for his engines. So not only steam but the byproduct of the kerosene; water. I still have his article which was published in Live Steam many years ago and would be adaptable to our scale. Basically, it is kerosene dripping on a hot metal surface which causes it to vaporize. Bob
Shaddock INDOOR LIVE STEAM
OK Trent I will bite! Why rain coats and storm hats? Because of the amount of steam in a closed room? Gary Lane, VP ACPO Gary~ slogging through another Oregon winter in Eugene > Trent et al. > Back in the dim history of our livesteam hobby there was a fellow named > Victor Shaddock. He modeled in 1/2" scale in Oakland Ca. His layout was in > his huge basement, and the legendary steamups he held were remarkable in > that the attendees wore raincoats and storm hats.. >
Re: INDOOR LIVE STEAM (was Re: clearances)
Trent et al. Back in the dim history of our livesteam hobby there was a fellow named Victor Shaddock. He modeled in 1/2" scale in Oakland Ca. His layout was in his huge basement, and the legendary steamups he held were remarkable in that the attendees wore raincoats and storm hats.. Cheers, Eric - Original Message - Just the thing to add heat and moisture to the > indoor atmosphere during the winter! As a bonus, spilled oil could be > buffed into a wood floor for that long lasting shine! > > Casey Sterbenz
LGB/Aster Frank S. at eBay.de
I was checking the German eBay web site to see whether I could find an inexpensive diesel switcher to complement my live steam loco and came across a LGB Aster/Frank S. which has been put on display only (according to the seller). The seller ships worldwide; however he entered the description only in German; the current price is less than USD 1,000. In case anyone is interested, take a look at http://cgi.ebay.de/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1667311349 I don't know the seller and I don't have any interests. Matthias __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
Re: clearances
I am going to be brave and just tell her how it is going to be!! I won't be denied!!
Re: clearances
Jess, Luv it--let us know what happens--IF- that is; -you are in physical condition to do so! Geoff Geoff, >I printed that out and am going to show it to my wife when she gets home >from earning my living today! >Jess > >
Re: Hogwart's Express
Tch, Tch, Tony, Wot memory?? So thanks, you've helped me. This will help me explain the mix of locos and coaches I run. Anyway, my RR is a museum park, thus the short runs and hodgepodge of locos and coaches. To explain the mix of scales? Well no problem, the name of my RR is: The Nonsensical Secret Garden Railway. Any argument? Three sclaes, three gauges, steam, butane, alcohol and coal, (wood once) sparkies, you name it! Lots of the "Hand of God" powered too. Geoff. Hi Geoff, > A quiet reminder to refresh your memory!. > Do you not remember?. >Duchess,s were not only painted LMS Crimson Lake during their >lifetime, but also British Rail green, British Rail Red, Sky >Blue!, Grey and BR Black. So green would not be incorrect. > Or is that envy?. > Tony D. > > >At 07:24 PM 11/21/01 -0800, you wrote: >> Thanks Keith, >> >>In fact I'm taking a can of GWR paint to the movie--I'll show 'em. How? >>well, locally there is also a preview of the movie "The Majestic" with >>Jim Carrey in which I was an extra-- someone spotted me on the "movie" >>street, so I'll just hang around on the screen and do the painting when >>the Harry Potter movie comes on!! And-I aint a-kiddin!! >> >>Geoff. PS. Wouldn't the Duchess look wonderful in green. at least it >>would help it a little! Right, you've guessed, I'm green with envy, Ah that >>Duchess! >> >> >> >> >>Anthony Dixon wrote: >> >> >> >> Hi Gary, >> >> So why not use a Jubilee or a Royal Scot or a Duchess, and >> >> save the paint and hassle from the GWR fanatics?. (Just kidding). >> > >> >But Tony, everybody knows there's no magic in non-GWR locomotives. How >>could >> >they use anything BUT a GWR loco! >> > >> >Cheers >> > >> >Keith >> > >> >-- >> >=== >> >Keith Manison Phone (876)702-0337 >> >7 Mulberry CloseFax (876)702-0661 >> >Jacks Hill P.A.Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >Kingston 6, Jamaica W.I. >> >> >> >
Re: clearances
Geoff, I printed that out and am going to show it to my wife when she gets home from earning my living today! Jess
Re: clearances
At least I wasn't "brave" enough to show my wife the pictures!
Re: clearances
Yes, a spare bedroom is my hobby room and I have compressed air piped in from the garage for testing the locos--no cold shop or garage for me! Visitors are curious!! Geoff iI've heard that many bedrooms are workshops . . . > >From: "Geoff Spenceley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >> How about the bedroom? >> >> Very shy Geoff. >> >> Before you get off course--A bedroom! > >
Re: clearances
Now Clark, Everyman's house, if you ask me--if the wives complain tell them "Well, you could live under the Taliban"!- Just in case you plan any future marriage Clark. Geoff.I suppose I should set the record straight. My shop is in the dinning >room next to the kitchen. Makes getting snacks easy. For those who >have a family room / kitchen along one side of the house, just imagine >that the family room is a machine shop. > >That's basically what I have have done. My five bedroom house does not >have a garage or a out building in which to place a machine shop. I >though about using a bedroom but there is no easy access to the >driveway. So I removed the side by side windows that looked out onto >the driveway and replaced them with a double french door. I removed the >carpet and installed three phase 220 power (using a static converter) in >it's own panel. Now I have my shop space with outside access. Works >slick even if I say so myself. And the space can be returned to being a >dinning room when the house is sold. > >But now I am running out of space. I have installed a Jet 13x40 gear >head lathe, Bridgeport Series I 9x48 mill with DRO, 30x72 inch hardwood >workbench, and my drill press in the room. I also store my ride behind >4 3/4 inch gauge Shay on it's roll around stand inside as well. The two >riding cars are left outside in the weather. > >My current ride on project is a 1.6 inch scale Willamette. I have the >frame started and will be making a work stand for it soon. I use my >front entry foyer (12x15) to store my electric metal cutting hack saw, >stand grinder and granite slab. It already has a wall worth of book >shelves and my drafting table. I suppose I will have to wheel the >current engine to be worked upon down the hall to the foyer as needed. >I am thinking about knocking out the wall between the shop space and the >front entry foyer to have more continuos space. > >I went the dinning room route because I couldn't afford a 2 or 3 car >garage addition to my home. There you have it. I'll bet that the >dinning room of many homes just store the dinning furniture and never >get used except on Thanksgiving, Christmas and maybe one or two other >occasions during the year. Hey it's cooled and heated space that needs >a full time use. > >You can see a photo of the shop taken about 8 months ago before the >hardwood bench was installed. Just go to http://www.steamup.com/ and >click on the live steam chat. The double doors are to the left out of >view. > >Clark > >Jesse Grimmer wrote: >> >> Ask Clark about a machine shop in the living room. I saw the pictures! >> Jess >> >>
Re: Loco Steam
We have been through this several times before. The answer is, for practical purposes 'NO'! Art Walker - Original Message - From: 橘川 純 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 8:48 AM Subject: Loco Steam > Is Loco Steam Model Engineers in UK open? > > > Jun Kitsukawa > 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka > Fujisawa, Kanagawa > 251-0027 JAPAN > > mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > hp:http://www6.plala.or.jp/locomotive/ > > > > >
Loco Steam
Is Loco Steam Model Engineers in UK open? Jun Kitsukawa 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0027 JAPAN mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] hp:http://www6.plala.or.jp/locomotive/
Re: clearances
Jesse, I really liked Clark when I met him, but I KNOW he has already gotten me in trouble with that picture. I think you're right. Later, Trent Jesse Grimmer wrote: >Trent, I really liked Clark when I met him, but I think he will get a lot of >us in trouble with that picture. What do you think? >Jess > > >
Re: Silver Soldering Aluminum
Friends, Sorry to be so tardy with this reply. Small Parts has a solder/flux kit for aluminum. Try the following link: http://www.smallparts.com/Bulletin%20Files/Tools_Products/Solder%20Alsolder%20500.htm Casey Sterbenz >From: Ferdinand Mels Subject: Silver Soldering Aluminum Date: Wed, 21 Nov >2001 18:14:09 -0800 > >Hi everyone >I am trying to find out if anyone has had experience with silver >soldering >aluminum T6 6061 - How does it compare to stainless or brass any >weird >side effects - Thanks in advance cheers Ferdinand. _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
INDOOR LIVE STEAM (was Re: clearances)
Trent, What a WONDERFUL idea! Just the thing to add heat and moisture to the indoor atmosphere during the winter! As a bonus, spilled oil could be buffed into a wood floor for that long lasting shine! Casey Sterbenz >From: Trent Dowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: clearances >Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:10:33 -0600 > > > Although, without her I would probably be running live steam indoors >around the living room floor. Hmmm. Now there's an idea! > > >Later, >Trent _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
Nitrile balls
Harry, I tried these in axle pumps some time ago.they are fine in the discharge side,particularly if your seat maching isnt good,but dont work on the suction side,reason: on the pump inwards stroke the pressure forces the ball down into the seat so hard ,that it distorts and jams ! no water comes in on the next outwards stroke..we now use bronze balls on suction side and outlet.but Ithink bronze suction and nitrile discharge might be ideal. Gordon Watson.
