RE: BAGRS Project Loco
Doug, Check out: http://www.panyo.com/bpe/drive.htm for drivetrain info, and: http://www.panyo.com/bpe/photos.htm for overall views, and finally: http://www.panyo.com/cad/ for the drawings. Mike -Original Message- From: sslivesteam@colegroup.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of DougK Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2005 10:23 AM To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam Subject: BAGRS Project Loco Does anyone have photos, plans, instructions, or parts list for the BAGRS project loco from several years ago? Thanks, Doug
Re: burner problems
Bert. Thanks for that summary - could be very useful. Jim Gregg. At 09:07 AM 2/7/2005 -0800, you wrote: I put a question about double burner problems out a couple of weeks or so ago. I received many answers, further info was obtained at the Sinsheim exhibition in Germany. Many of the answers came from several people the contributors were numerous. Thank you all. We have managed to solve the problems on three engines, and defined definitely the problems on others which have been solved in the meantime. I thought a list of the possible problems and the suggested answers may be some help. One other point we have noticed is that the engines with a safety valve on the gas tank can cause some excitement. Especially if one blows off while an alcohol burner is passing and the coal load is not fitted over the gas tank. The flame can exceed 6 feet! and be very hot. Needless to say mine has been replaced by a screw. 1) The 2 burner engines have a large gas tank. Filling the tank causes the temperature to drop. So fill the gas tank first allowing it to warm up a little while oiling and watering the engine. Starting on a frozen tank is not optimal. No problems in CA,NE,AZ etc. but in northern states and other northerly countries it can cost nerves. 2) If only one burner goes out first turn the burner over so that the jet now burns in the other flue. If the same jet goes out it is probably a dirty jet. 3) Take the burner out of the fire tube have someone hold it carefully. Gently just crack the gas valve and light both burners. If one is a larger flame than the other the chances are that it is a dirty jet. Remove and clean the jet. Repeat the test afterwards to ensure that both flames are the same. Replace, and fire up the engine. 4) If the problem has not been solved check the metal pipe-bends to each burner. If one has a kink in it put the right jet in the left side and the left jet in the right side, If the problem remains it probably indicates a restriction of the gas flow. Replace the manifold. 5) If all this is ok but one fire still goes out, check with a little more gas pressure to the burners. Being used to single flue engines we tend to keep the fire at a minimum. In a double flue engine this has proved to be oft the cause of fire out on one burner. 6) If the problem still persists the next possibility is the flexible gas connection from tender gas tank to engine. It could be that if the engine is close coupled this could knick and reduce the gas flow in spite if the metal which should prevent this from happening. Reduce the length, keeping an eye on the flex-pipe in curves. It may be that this tube is to long as some engines have proved. 7) If the problem is still there check the gas tank temperature. Here hot water is the old stand by. However help can be found by taking the coal boards out of the front of the tender (surgery on most engines) and the warm air being forced backwards out of the cab by the forwards travel is now pressed into the tender. Make sure there is a space behind the coal load to let the air out inducing a flow of air. This is important. Regner do a steam heated gas tank! A second small gas tank in the cob near the boiler is also a suggestion. 8) We have now checked all of the easy points but the problem is still there. We have noticed an American manufacturer has not placed his jets uniformly in the burners. By that I mean that most burners have the jet level with the air holes. That is the jet just can be seen at the jet side of the air hole. These engines seem to be free from problems. However engines with the jet some distance form the air holes still have the problem in most cases. Talk to the manufacturer about this one. Ask him for a dimension to work to. It is after all an expensive quality product. 9) Some improvements have been reported by increasing the diameter of the air holes from 6mm to 7 mm. Some have changed burners from slit (toast rack) burners to burners having three rows of holes on an 8mm diameter burner as apposed to the 10 mm burner where used the theory here is that the 100mm burners are to large in dia. etc. This requires some experience and these persons are experienced enough to know what they are doing. Replacing the gas volume valve with a gas pressure regulator (Cheddar) can reduce the effects of a cooling tank and reduce to some extent the tendency to freeze. 10) If your jet blocks regularly change the gas brand and wash out your gas tank carefully. Thanks again to all contributors. If there is something I have missed please inform me so I can extend the list. Bert - Bert & Edmunda [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: BAGRS Project Loco
Doug, Send me you address and I'll send you a copy. Scott "DougK" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Does anyone have photos, plans, instructions, or parts list for the BAGRS >project loco from several years ago? >Thanks, >Doug > > > -- -- Prince William Community Band - http://www.pwcweb.com/pwcb/ Her Majesty's Heralds - http://www.erols.com/diesel/HMHeralds/ Her Majesty's Hounds - http://www.erols.com/diesel/mcdonald/HMHounds Clack Valves & Cornets Steam Band - http://www.erols.com/diesel/clack/ __ Switch to Netscape Internet Service. As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register Netscape. Just the Net You Need. New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups. Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp
burner problems
I put a question about double burner problems out a couple of weeks or so ago. I received many answers, further info was obtained at the Sinsheim exhibition in Germany. Many of the answers came from several people the contributors were numerous. Thank you all. We have managed to solve the problems on three engines, and defined definitely the problems on others which have been solved in the meantime. I thought a list of the possible problems and the suggested answers may be some help. One other point we have noticed is that the engines with a safety valve on the gas tank can cause some excitement. Especially if one blows off while an alcohol burner is passing and the coal load is not fitted over the gas tank. The flame can exceed 6 feet! and be very hot. Needless to say mine has been replaced by a screw. 1) The 2 burner engines have a large gas tank. Filling the tank causes the temperature to drop. So fill the gas tank first allowing it to warm up a little while oiling and watering the engine. Starting on a frozen tank is not optimal. No problems in CA,NE,AZ etc. but in northern states and other northerly countries it can cost nerves. 2) If only one burner goes out first turn the burner over so that the jet now burns in the other flue. If the same jet goes out it is probably a dirty jet. 3) Take the burner out of the fire tube have someone hold it carefully. Gently just crack the gas valve and light both burners. If one is a larger flame than the other the chances are that it is a dirty jet. Remove and clean the jet. Repeat the test afterwards to ensure that both flames are the same. Replace, and fire up the engine. 4) If the problem has not been solved check the metal pipe-bends to each burner. If one has a kink in it put the right jet in the left side and the left jet in the right side, If the problem remains it probably indicates a restriction of the gas flow. Replace the manifold. 5) If all this is ok but one fire still goes out, check with a little more gas pressure to the burners. Being used to single flue engines we tend to keep the fire at a minimum. In a double flue engine this has proved to be oft the cause of fire out on one burner. 6) If the problem still persists the next possibility is the flexible gas connection from tender gas tank to engine. It could be that if the engine is close coupled this could knick and reduce the gas flow in spite if the metal which should prevent this from happening. Reduce the length, keeping an eye on the flex-pipe in curves. It may be that this tube is to long as some engines have proved. 7) If the problem is still there check the gas tank temperature. Here hot water is the old stand by. However help can be found by taking the coal boards out of the front of the tender (surgery on most engines) and the warm air being forced backwards out of the cab by the forwards travel is now pressed into the tender. Make sure there is a space behind the coal load to let the air out inducing a flow of air. This is important. Regner do a steam heated gas tank! A second small gas tank in the cob near the boiler is also a suggestion. 8) We have now checked all of the easy points but the problem is still there. We have noticed an American manufacturer has not placed his jets uniformly in the burners. By that I mean that most burners have the jet level with the air holes. That is the jet just can be seen at the jet side of the air hole. These engines seem to be free from problems. However engines with the jet some distance form the air holes still have the problem in most cases. Talk to the manufacturer about this one. Ask him for a dimension to work to. It is after all an expensive quality product. 9) Some improvements have been reported by increasing the diameter of the air holes from 6mm to 7 mm. Some have changed burners from slit (toast rack) burners to burners having three rows of holes on an 8mm diameter burner as apposed to the 10 mm burner where used the theory here is that the 100mm burners are to large in dia. etc. This requires some experience and these persons are experienced enough to know what they are doing. Replacing the gas volume valve with a gas pressure regulator (Cheddar) can reduce the effects of a cooling tank and reduce to some extent the tendency to freeze. 10) If your jet blocks regularly change the gas brand and wash out your gas tank carefully. Thanks again to all contributors. If there is something I have missed please inform me so I can extend the list. Bert - Bert & Edmunda [EMAIL PROTECTED]
