Re: JVR "C" type?
- Original Message - From: "Mike Chaney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 11:37 PM Subject: Re: JVR "C" type? > > Why Aster did/does not settle on one type is an interesting question. > > Horses for Courses? > Mike Could be & should be, but I can't work out why loco x = boiler B etc! Any owner of an extensive Aster 'stable' care to enlighten me? Art
Re: JVR "C" type?
- Original Message - From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 8:15 PM Subject: Re: JVR "C" type? > On 18 Aug 2002 at 14:01, Mike Eorgoff wrote: > > Where does the term come from? Are there other defined configurations > > similar to this using only a letter code instead of a description? > > Hi, Mike, > > This is where having the Aster catalogue is really great (as a reference book -- > ignore the temptations to buy the locomotives :-). There is a 40-page section > showing all sorts of technical info about Aster locos in the back. Mike, if not in nostalgic Gutenberg mode, a useful abstract is at - http://www.southernsteamtrains.com/manual/boilertypes.htm The 'smoketube type' illustrated (hockey stick I call it) is John Van Riemsdijk Type 'B', & is used in Aster Mikado I think. The Type 'A' , not illustrated, seems pretty obsolete but is a firetube blind at the rear end but with several 'uprisers' from the fire. Why Aster did/does not settle on one type is an interesting question. Art Walker
Re: flying Scotsman,
- Original Message - From: "Gordon Watson." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 7:51 AM Subject: flying Scotsman, > Art, > Yes its a JVR type C 2 off 1/2 inch tubes..I think it might be the > fairly large smokebox volume and the choke of the petticoat looks larger > than some other Asters Ive run. whatever it works! > Gordon. Thanks, Gordon. I have the boiler tube & end-plates cut for a 'C' type for a US 4-6-0, so my question was not academic.Nice to follow a recipe that works. Art
Re: Flying Scotsman
- Original Message - From: "Gordon Watson." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 9:16 AM Subject: Flying Scotsman > Geoff, > if you think it looks pretty, wait till you hear it! it can be > heard 50 yards away, a loud, cracking, 3 cylinder beat. I have never heard > any thing like it from a Gauge 1 loco. I wonder why this is - the 'loud' bit I mean. I have a vague memory of JvR writing in the Ga1 N/L that the sound needed something to bounce off of, & that having a small number of firetubes & therefore a decent area of front tube plate helped. What is the FS arrangement? - JvR type 'C' isn't it? Just two 1/2" tubes? Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re: G1MRA Project Loco -/O/E crash/some possible solutions
I am not having any problem with Kitsukawa's messages on O/E, but I am not sure how to advise him! I have lent my copy of the Project book to a friend, but if memory serves, the coupling rods are one continuous bar connecting the crank pins of axles 1,2,&3. ie they are rigid. I suggest Jun, that as a first go, you remove the con rods & see if that improves things. If it does, then the answer is a 'proper' jointed con rod, with a knuckle after the second axle position.This should allow the wheels to conform better to the track curvature.Usually done to allow vertical movement, of course, which is not necessary on an unsprung loco like the Project. But before doing that, I would check whether the holes in the con rods may just be too tight, & might benefit from a LITTLE reaming out. Check to see if the wheel sets have some freedom to move a little from side to side & that they can do so EASILY. If removing the con rods makes no difference, & if the wheel sets cannot move a little from side to side, then this means that there is insufficient play between inside of wheel boss & outside of axle bearing. Now again, if memory serves right, a fault of the original Project design was that there was no means of pushing the axle bearings out & dropping the wheel set. Basically what needs to be done is to thin the outside of axle bearings to give greater play. Difficult. 'De-flanging' the middle wheels was suggested. A dodge used frequently by the prototype BUT with a wider wheel tread, so not an easy solution.With an unaltered wheel width there is a risk of the centre drivers falling into the track on tight curves. I would also check that your wheel profile conforms to the GIMRA standards. With a 40mm back to back these give a very 'sloppy' fit on the track (the Europeans use 41)& should allow curves to be taken easily even with a rigid chassis. Perhaps you have made your wheel flanges too thick?- thus removing the flexibility. Art Walker, Guildford, England. - Original Message - From: "John Simon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 5:38 AM Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > I keep getting mail from an unreadable address that keeps crashing the Outlook > Express programme. I think it is from the gentleman from Japan, are any > others having this problem? > > 73, John de VK2XGJ > VK2XGJ, VK's last Satellite Gateway > The early bird may get the worm > but the second mouse gets the cheese! > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Alison & Jim Gregg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:55 AM > Subject: Re: G1MRA Project Loco > > > > Jn Kitsukawa > > > >. > > > > At 11:53 PM 6/25/02 -0800, you wrote: > > >G1MRA Project Loco can not run on my garden railway (track radius 6 > > >feet). Does the loco require larger track radius? Please let me know > > >what to do. > > > > > > > > > Jun Kitsukawa > > > JAPAN > > > > > > > > > > > >
Re: Pop Valves
- Original Message - From: "Peter Foley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 7:51 PM Subject: Re: Pop Valves > They are weepers. Early Roundhouse locos had pop type safeties, but they > changed years ago to the weeper style. Something about safety, they say, > but I could never see the problem, myself. The guy who was leaning over my Dutch tram with Prescott boiler & pop-valve on its first run in Holland saw the problem. Lucky he had a sense of humour. Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re:Nickel Silver Correction
My last mailing was confusing. The Dave Brutnell loco is in nickel silver. Art Walker, Guildford, England
Re: Nickel silver
Yes, I have used it on several locos. It is readily available in various 'shim' thicknesses in the UK, and is the preferred material for scratch builders of electric mice. Takes paint much better than brass. However my prefered material for both construction & cladding is good old tinplate - or 'best quality Welsh tinned steel' as the defensive minded used to describe it. 14thou for the bodywork, 10thou - the tin-can standard - incl. cans of butane/propane mix amusingly - for the boiler wrapper. Readily available, I dunk it in dilute phosphoric acid to improve rust resistance, but as my lokies spend their lives swimming in oil, rusting does not seem to be a problem. I like tinplate 'cos it goes where it is put on bending & is more forgiving of mistakes compared with brass or nickel silver. If anyone is interested they can mail me directly & I will post back a pic of a Dave Brutnell Ga1 loco built or at any rate clad in the material. Art Walker, Guildford, England [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - Original Message - From: "Harry Wade" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 7:01 PM Subject: Nickel silver > I've just now seen an interesting post on the G1MRA bulletin board, from a > supplier, claiming that most people in the UK use 28ga nickel for cleading > (boiler wrappers to us). I assume he means nickel silver or "german > silver", and if so that's a very good material make things of. It's > drawback is limited availability, limited sizes, and of course cost. Has > anyone used this and what were the results? > > Regards, > Harry > >
Re: Cylinder gaskets
- Original Message - From: "Geoff Spenceley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 6:10 PM Subject: Re: Cylinder gaskets -- also, there used to be a thick brown toilet paper sold in England (truly!!) that was rough and sandy on one side and shiny smooth on the other. I always figured it was "his" and "hers".. Gad, Sir !! those were the days. Sir Art
Re: "model engineer"
Quite right !, young Spenceley. there is an example for sale (complete with piccie) at - http://www.stationroadsteam.com price 6d. No, sorry, that was ca 1930, £15. Sir Art - Original Message - From: "Geoff Spenceley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 11:10 PM Subject: Re: "model engineer" > HMM--After my time obviously!!--Bet Sir Arthiur can tell you!! > > Geoff > > For those of the "cuppa": persuasion: > >At The Depot we often get boxes of "stuff" that belonged to grandpa or great > >uncle Osgood and The Depot should add this to their 'collection.' > >Today I found this little booklet in one such box. > >THE "MODEL ENGINEER" SERIES > >MODEL BOILER MAKING > >NO. 69d > > > >Designing . Making . Testing > >Percival Marshall & Co. Ltd. London. > > > >A Practical Handbook on the Designing, Making, and > >Testing of Small Steam Boilers > >by > > E. L. PEARCE > > > >revised by > >V. W. DELVES-BROUGHTON > > > >No where in this 70 plus page booklet can I find a date of any kind. > > There are advertisements for "The Model Railway News" Clockwork, Steam and > >Electric. Published the first of every month. > > Another advert for "The Model Engineer everybody's journal of > >MECHANICS, ELECTRICS, MODELS, & TOOLS. Published every Thursday. > > > >Does anyone have any idea of how old this may be? Even though the pages are > >tan and the edges and margins are quite brown and brittle, it must surely be > >younger than 'dogfood Geoff' > > > >Keep your steam up! > >Mr. B. W. Lunkenheimer > > > >
Re: Steamlines/ Gardenrailway World
- Original Message - From: "Gary Broeder" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 5:52 AM Subject: Re: Steamlines/ Gardenrailway World >I have a few > issues of Steamlines and many of Garden Railway World Well I think I have a complete collection including 'Merlin's Messenger'- 'tho 'tis difficult to be certain as his mags changed identity at frequent intervals, usually before my sub had run out - and I still find them most enjoyable. He had a certain genius in assembling contributions, and their eclectic contents covering a variety of scales & gauges was just great. Some superb scale drawings also. Yours in nostalgia, Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re: Steamlines partialy assembled SHAY kit on eBay
Nothing wrong with a Steamlines Shay that a new frame, engine & gears won't sort out. Art Walker - Original Message - From: "CWolcott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 2:15 PM Subject: Steamlines partialy assembled SHAY kit on eBay > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1712939316 > > I saw this if anyone is interested. . . > >
Re: Butane tank thread
Mighty lucky, 'cos if you are refering to the thread for the Ronson valve this is 4.5 x 0.5 mm for which I guess you need a 4.0mm 'ole. Problem is that an accurate & burr free recess is required to seat the 'O' ring underneath the valve shoulder. If you don't have recess, the ring can be squeezed out (a la shuttle disaster) & failure take place at pressures a lot lower than the~250psi. which the valves will usually stand - 'tho they won't necessarily work after such treatment.. Taps & dies for this thread are available from Bruce Engineering in UK or - I imagine - from Sulphur Springs in US, but I generally buy bushes from Prescott engineering to hard solder into my tanks. Art Walker - Original Message - From: "Keith Manison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 5:45 PM Subject: Butane tank thread > Doe anyone know what thread is used on butane tanks? I've been able to > succesfully make fittings for them using a 7/16" x 28 thread. However, that does > not seem to be a standard thread, so I'm wondering if it's metric and I just got > lucky. > > Cheers > > Keith > -- > === > Keith Manison Phone (876)702-0337 > 7 Mulberry CloseFax (876)702-0661 > Jacks Hill P.A.Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Kingston 6, Jamaica W.I. >
Re: soft solder joints (was Harris book)
- Original Message - From: "Paul Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 9:16 AM Subject: Re: soft solder joints (was Harris book) > I think my problem with the notion is that soft solder (IIRC) melts at > about 500 degrees F. Water, at atmospheric pressure(14.7 psia), boils > at 200 degrees F. Explain to me how the boiler will be hot enough to > melt the solder, and yet expel liquid water onto the fire? /me > ponders... > Steam is a very effective fire douser, is it not ? Art Walker
Re: BA set screws
- Original Message - From: "Mike Chaney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 5:30 PM Subject: Re: BA set screws > > We did it in 1776, it ought to be getting easier by now. > > > Damn George III ! Oh ! I don't know. Won't pay our taxes, won't drink our tea & won't use our nuts ! Art Walker
Re: Cheddar Iver
I did not see it run, but I believe there is a MkII on the way with fixed cylinders, if it is of interest. Art Walker, Guildford, England. - Original Message - From: "Chuck Walters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 4:52 PM Subject: Cheddar Iver > I noticed in one of the pics from DH that someone ran a Cheddar Iver there. > For those who went to DH, how did it run? What impressions did it give you? > > Chuck > > >
Re: (MORE) Diamondhead Pictures Posted
Really great Pix - many thanks !! Art Walker - Original Message - From: "Michael Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 8:35 PM Subject: (MORE) Diamondhead Pictures Posted > All, > > I have posted 94 pictures from the Diamondhead event at > http://www.panyo.com/dh2002 > I hope you enjoy them. > > Regards, > > Michael Martin > > http://www.panyo.com/steamups > > (SF Bay Area Steamups and Model Engineering) >
Re: Driving to D'head?/ACE store
- Original Message - From: "Richard Finlayson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 7:06 AM Subject: Re: Driving to D'head? > Ahh. The solution presents itself. Thanks. > > Uhh. Never having ventured to the other side of the highway... are we > talking a walk or a drive? > > Thanks, > > -Richard Well to us Brits it would be a walk, Richard, but look out for the State Troopers as they may regard it as an un-American activity !! See y'all y'all. Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re: bead blasting
I have had good service with respect to forking out back issues from - Stephans rr history PO Box 1062 Talbott TN 37877 e-mail Karen at - [EMAIL PROTECTED] Art Walker, Guildford, England. - Original Message - From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 4:56 PM Subject: Re: bead blasting > > I thought if you were inquiring about possibly building one that would > > be simple enough to do but surprisingly a very quick search on Google > > didn't turn up anything on building a small inexpensive one. > > There was just such an article in Model Railroader, showing how to build both a > cabinet and the sandblasting nozzle. You can tell this was a while ago, since > it involved some simple machining. The original magazine can be obtained > directly from Kalmbach or you can get a photodopy from the NMRA library (they > charge per page). > > "Build your own sandblast system", Model Railroader, September 1977 page 68 > > http://db.kalmbach.com/catalog/catalogjump.lasso?Menu=backissues > http://www.nmra.org/library > -vance- > > Keep in mind that, before plastics, only rich people could afford to have poor > taste. > -- Don Featherstone, creator of the plastic lawn flamingo > >
Re: Wick adventures/Art's dead end
- Original Message - From: "Harry Wade" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 10:55 PM Subject: Wick adventures > Gentlemens, >I have some interesting (to me) firebrick wick experiences to >pass along. Well I am glad you are having some success, Harry. I was inspired by all the chit-chat to hack into some board bought from a UK firm Shestos who sell it as a suitable base board for hard-soldering. It sure is heat resistant & is porous so I thought I would give it a try. Much harder stuff than the stuff I have used for radiant ceramic burners. Upended a ~1.5" length ~3/8" square in a pot of meths. Well the meths did flow up, but even when encouraged by a general soaking it was clear that the meths was burning off the top surface far faster than the flow of the meths up the material. I guess I will have to wait 'till Diamondhead to see exactly what sort of material you guys are playing with.Wish I had paid more attention to the Dutch guy I met a couple of years back who was having great success with a 'hard ceramic' meths burner in his loco. Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re: Which fastener series for new design?
- Original Message - From: "Harry Wade" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 1:01 AM Subject: Re: Which fastener series for new design? > there has > been a small but sophisitcated and reasonably active model engineering > community in France (speaking of keeping up with the French) and they have > done some magnificent work. I can't imagine the designs and drawings for > those models being in anything but metric. True Harry, although curiously the subject is more extensively developed among the Germanic tribes. Which brings me to the Dutch, whose ME & small scale steaming is very well developed. There are a number of designer/builders in Ga1 including Oudes, father & son (if you want to see the latter's work go into the G1MRA website, www.gaugeone.org ) Beekhuis (OK, a Belgian but a Fleming I guess, so it does not spoil my story) and Verouden. The latter's designs are seialised in Onder Stoom( www.stoomgroepholland.nl ) and if the 'words' are shrouded in the Dutch language, the 'music' is in the form of superbly detailed professional quality drawings. Metric threads are used of course, but with the pitch appropriate to the task. A couple of the older designs are available in separate booklet form, as is a compendium of Ga1 advice by Verouden. All available from Stoomgroep Holland site. Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re: Which fastener series for new design?/Project/metric 'D' Supplement
- Original Message - From: "Richard Finlayson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 7:40 PM Subject: Re: Which fastener series for new design? > And finally, I'd really like to build a Project loco some day but > it's all laid out in inches. So, projects like that require you to > redo the design in CAD. Well I agree with Harry, Richard, this is laying it on a bit thick ! Makes me feel a real antique, in that when scratch building I never make a drawing but use a scale rule from an HO, O or other scale drawing or scale up on a photocopier. Dimensions have to be transferred to the metal by hand unless you are sending stuff to be laser cut. There is no relief for metriluvvies with respect to the GIMRA 'Project' but Ulli Holtmann has provided a metric supplement (note supplement) for the GIMRA 'D'. Also includes some very useful tables giving metric equivalents of BA & ME fasteners, giving both size & pitch dimensions. Available from the same source as the GIMRA booklets. Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re: Which fastener series for new design?
Mike, Before you take the plunge into metric remember a couple of things - Firstly, the metric system is NOT standardised below a certain diam (which I can't recall off-hand) ie a number of grades of 'fineness' for a particular thread diam are available, and particular diams may not be compatible. Secondly, although I do not know the situation in the States, size equivalents of the 10 & 12 BA hex head bolts we use a lot of are available from only a few sources even on the continent. Probably the best person to advise would be Gordon Watson of Argyle who I think uses metric on his locos. Art Walker, Guildford, England - Original Message - From: "Mike Eorgoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 5:22 PM Subject: Which fastener series for new design? > If a new engine was being designed, what series of fasteners would have the > greatest acceptance? Don't really like using the English types, BA etc, and > the American types seem to be less than unified and available, so am > thinking about using metric types. > > Hope this has as many replies as asking about what fuel to use. > > Mike Eorgoff > near Chicago > > >
Re: Beginner Gauge 1
Paul, In my humble opinion, based on current observation of the scene, that's a choice between - good v inexpensive trouble free v fiddling & fettling If you really are a virgin, go for the Roundhouse. Once you have some experience, then you can start 'saving money' by trading 'time & trouble' if you want. Believe me, I have been through this & made all the mistakes. Can't really advise re. track. here in UK it would be a choice between Peco & Tenmill. I would advise nickel silver (or whatever name it goes under) for the rail, as brass does not always 'weather' to a nice colour, stainless is bloody to work with, and ally, apart from the non-railway like colour has no 'memory', therefore if you knock it out of alignment it stays that way. Art Walker, Guildford, England. - Original Message - From: "Paul Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 8:47 AM Subject: Beginner Gauge 1 > What would be suggested as a good, inexpensive first locomotive? I've > been looking at either one of Roundhouse's kit's or Ruby. > > Also, what's everybody's favourite place to get track? > > > -- > --- > Paul Anderson > geeky1!paul > "Nature has been kinder to us than we had any right to expect. > --- Freeman Dyson > >
Re: Hogwarts Postscript - Magical transformation !
- Original Message - From: Trent Dowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 1:47 AM Subject: Re: Hogwarts Postscript - Magical transformation ! > I haven't seen the movie, read the book, nor paid any > attention to the ads. Should we allow deviants such as this on the list ?? Art Walker
Re: Hogwarts Postscript - Magical transformation !
- Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 1:54 PM Subject: Hogwarts Postscript > After all the discussion last week about the Hogwarts > Express loco, I headed off to England for Thanksgiving. On the escalator at Kings Cross, what do > I find on the adverts for "Harry Potter and the > Philosphers Stone" but a magnificent head-on picture > of a steam engine. > > But wait - it looks familiar, yet unlike a UK engine. > It's the N&W #602 ! In glorious b&w with a great smoke > plume. > > The ads were all over England and in the press - I tore > one out and brought it home. The minds of the > publicity folk are very strange. > > Pete Not just on the adverts, but browsing in a bookshop today at Waterloo station, also I see, on the front cover of the Bloomsbury Paperback edition. I was not certain if the #602 was a train or loco number, but from your mailing & consulting Reed's superb book on the 'Streamline Era' indeed the engine number of this fine J Class 4-8-4. A magical transformation indeed ! Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re: Stainless steel mesh for radiant burners
- Original Message - From: Kevin O'Connor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 6:13 PM Subject: Stainless steel mesh for radiant burners Great work, Kevin. Thanks also for posting the results from your studies in 'Notes from the Unit Shop' - most useful. > burner that will take the place of the Cheddar type waffle weave ceramic > burners. Their advantage would be to free the American home machinist from > dependence on the frangible and expensive porous ceramic, and to replace it > with sturdy stainless steel components. The ceramic stuff from suppliers like Calor in UK is pretty reasonable in price. When a couple of years ago I retailed at DH, firebox+ sized bits for - 'two bottles Bass, or one warmed to civilised drinking temperature' - I was breaking even or making a modest profit. But anyway your work more than answers the original problem posed to this list. Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re: Stainless steel mesh for radiant burners
- Original Message - From: Kevin O'Connor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 6:13 PM Subject: Stainless steel mesh for radiant burners > I purchase all my stainless steel mesh for use in my radiant burners > from Small Parts in Florida. I did see that someone previously published > the website for them. > I generally use 20 or 22 mesh cloth as the emitter (the part that glows) > and 60 to 80 mesh cloth to wrap the existing poker burner slots. > If one would want to carry this line of design forward, I would suggest > obtaining some 20 or so nichrome mesh cloth from Mc Master-Carr in Chicago. > John Garrett suggested this approach to me prior to me building up his Aster > Hudson burner, but I just flat out forgot about it until I was posting the > unit to him. I will be more expensive, but it might last way longer at the > white hot (2000 F) range. Personally I don't see the need for these > elevated temperatures, and I run in the dull orange range (1500-1700 F) > except for the Big Boy which I run in the bright to dull red range > (1200-1400 F). > Another slick approach might be to obtain some .010" to .015" diameter > platinum wire and weave it into the "Conestoga" like "tent top", 20 or so > stainless steel mesh, to act as a catalyst during the process of combustion. > Cgnr tipped me off to this idea (platinum) in a Australian report that he > referenced on this thread a while back when I first wrote about the subject. > The Australian scientists are keen on platinum as a catalyst because they > are trying to burn methane gas which has a couple of free radicals that gum > up the combustion process. > Personally I'm about engineered out of this radiant burner business as > one of my rules is that 20% of the effort yields 80% of the result, and I > really don't have the time to invest the other 80% of the effort to further > guild the lily. One exception is the flat plate stainless steel radiant > burner that will take the place of the Cheddar type waffle weave ceramic > burners. Their advantage would be to free the American home machinist from > dependence on the frangible and expensive porous ceramic, and to replace it > with sturdy stainless steel components. I built a working model a couple of > years ago (it's in my butane Jane), but I want to push the design a bit > further before I raise the curtain on it. Let me say this about that: this > approach will lead to a radiant poker burner that operates without gas > transfer slots! That's a biggie for manufactures as cutting all those tiny > slits in those stainless steel tubes is time consuming and expensive, and if > they do it wrong (most do) the burners will whistle and groan ala Rubies and > Aster Climaxes. Mine is as silent as a snake and I have christened it > "Stinger". > Those of you who wish to pursue the radiant poker burner concept need to > revisit the pictures at http://southernsteamtrains.com because we have > posted more photos of the burners, but not in operation. If you look > closely at the Hudson burner you will see that there is a pattern to the > cutout in the sleeve that constrains the mesh over the burner slots. This > pattern constricts the flow of gas from the front of the burner and forces > it backwards to burn evenly along the whole length of the poker. This even > burning must be arrived at by trial and error for each type of gas poker > burner (all Hudsons will be the same and all Rubies will be the same too, > within their unique envelope). The original Ruby burners that I designed > years ago did not have a straight "slash" from front to back in their > stainless steel sleeve, but were rather a parabola, as in a very narrow > opening at the far end of the burner that gradually widened as a function of > a curve till the shape reached back to the burner body. I fiddled with this > shape until the flame generation was uniform from one end of the burner to > the other. I also replaced the stock #4 gas jet with a Calor #3 jet that > both restricted the flow of fuel per unit of time, and increased the > velocity of the gas through the burner's mixing chamber. Once this shape > was documented all Ruby burners could be made to work properly, but the > factory ignored the finer points, and so today the burners are hit or miss. > Present Ruby owners can duplicate the original shape of the sleeve using K&S > brass tubing, and with some experimentation can even out the flame, even > with a #4 factory jet; it just takes patience. > I have never made a radiant poker burner for my Ruby because I think > that the flue is too small in diameter; I have a superheater tube in the > flue as well. For those of you who will try to convert the Ruby burner to a > radiant type be aware that NO PART of the radiating mesh should contact the > flue's walls as this will lead to cooling of the mesh by conduction. > >
Re: Loco Steam
We have been through this several times before. The answer is, for practical purposes 'NO'! Art Walker - Original Message - From: $B5L@n!!=c(B <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 8:48 AM Subject: Loco Steam > Is Loco Steam Model Engineers in UK open? > > > Jun Kitsukawa > 4-10-15 KugenumaSakuragaoka > Fujisawa, Kanagawa > 251-0027 JAPAN > > mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > hp:http://www6.plala.or.jp/locomotive/ > > > > >
Re: Regional Call/uncontactable poms
DON'T YOU KNOW THERE'S A WAR ON Sir Art - Original Message - From: Geoff Spenceley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 6:47 PM Subject: Re: Regional Call/uncontactable poms > Sir Art, > > Do you think Harry is trying to arrange a "wake" for the G1MRA--are they > still alive? I , too have not received the current N/L . As Tony writes > "> What are the pommes up to< > > Geoff. > > > > Well we are busy whingeing away as usual. > > > >Just who are you trying to get hold of ? > >The e-mail addresses of most of the key people are listed in the Newsletter, > >but I will help you if I can. > > > >Art Walker, Guildford, England > > > >- Original Message - > >From: Tony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 8:05 AM > >Subject: Re: Regional Call > > > > > >> At 19:03 23/11/01 -0600, you wrote: > >> >Will anyone on the list who is a member of G1MRA, or a prospective > >member, > >> >and who lives in the following states: > >> > > >> >please contact me off-list. > >> >Cheers, > >> Harry > >> No I'm not in the US But in Oz (Australia), just curious, as I have not > >yet > >> received my mags etc. > >> I cannot seem to contact the usual bunch at G1mra in the uk. > >> What are the pommes up to?? > >> Tony > >> > >> > >> > > > > > >
Re: Regional Call
- Original Message - From: Keith Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 7:40 PM Subject: Re: Regional Call >Bad postal service seems to be a > universal constant! > Keith Taylor Not so. Subscribe to 'Australian Model Engineering' & you will experience a first class service mag & postwise. Art Walker, Guildford, England
Re: Regional Call/uncontactable poms
Well we are busy whingeing away as usual. Just who are you trying to get hold of ? The e-mail addresses of most of the key people are listed in the Newsletter, but I will help you if I can. Art Walker, Guildford, England - Original Message - From: Tony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 8:05 AM Subject: Re: Regional Call > At 19:03 23/11/01 -0600, you wrote: > >Will anyone on the list who is a member of G1MRA, or a prospective member, > >and who lives in the following states: > > > >please contact me off-list. > >Cheers, > Harry > No I'm not in the US But in Oz (Australia), just curious, as I have not yet > received my mags etc. > I cannot seem to contact the usual bunch at G1mra in the uk. > What are the pommes up to?? > Tony > > >
Re: Engine Clean uo/ gas tank blow-up
That must have been a pretty duff tank, Barry !!! Art Walker - Original Message - From: Gary <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 4:59 PM Subject: Engine Clean uo > I usually just use a rag. > Once I had a steamer friend chastise me for having a not clean enough loco, > he suggested simple hot water and soap. I blew up my gas tank. I had a bit > of Gaz (propane and butane mix) in the tank. I used warm water, about baby > bottle temperature. Too much pressure. No people damage because no flame was > nearby. Of course after I re-silver soldered the tank it held even with Gaz > and hotter water. > I went back to a wipe down with a rag. If I am ready to put the loco away > for a bit I will use warm water and dishwashing liquid to clean off grease > film. But first I open the fuel valve and leave it open for a while, then > move it indoors with the valve open and run barely warm water on the tank to > exacuate the rest of the fuel. Now I can wash with warm to hot water. > ~Gary > Once blown up, cautious in Eugene, OR > > > I used to clean off the water and oil spots from my locos with a light > spray > > of WD-40 then a gentle wipe down with a soft cloth. After reading all the > > recent posts, I will stop that procedure. How does everyone clean up > their > > engine "bodies" after a day of running? > > > > Don > > >
Re: Bearing Oils (kinda long)
- Original Message - From: Geoff Spenceley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 1:08 AM Subject: Re: Bearing Oils (kinda long) > Keith wrote: > > ><> (some of Jim > Curry's locos seem to approach turbine speeds!)>< > > Perhaps, but no one can hold a candle to Dick Moger--right Sir Art?? > So right, Sir Geoffrey !!! Sir Art.
Re: Two new reference postings
Yes, I've already been thar! A great service, Kevin. Art Walker - Original Message - From: Kevin O'Connor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 3:33 PM Subject: Two new reference postings > I have posted two new references to the Notes From Unit Shop Reference > Section of southernsteamtrains.com . They are titled "Alcohol as a Fuel", > and "Radiant Poker Burners". Radiant Poker Burners originally appeared on > sslivesteam.com a couple of weeks ago as a standard thread topic. Many > thanks to Jim Pitts for making the space available to me > > Best regards, > > Kevin > > >
Re: Ceramic Burners - Give him a prize !
The Majordomo's Gold Star to this man ! Art Walker - Original Message - From: Keith Manison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 2:33 AM Subject: Re: Ceramic Burners > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > You might try these ideas: Instead of going farther away with your heat, go > > closer so that the proper part of the flame, ie, the tips are closer to the > > bottom. > > Bob, > > As this was the easiest to try I moved up the whole burner > by no more than 3/32". What a difference! Raises steam in > half the time and keeps 40psi with a good running speed on > the Graham. I can top up through the Goodall with some > pressure loss bt it soon recovers. > > Great advice! Many thanks. > > Cheers > > Keith > > -- > === > Keith Manison Phone > (876)702-0337 > 7 Mulberry CloseFax > (876)702-0661 > Jacks Hill P.A.Email > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Kingston 6, Jamaica W.I. >
Re: Ceramic Burners
If, as I presume, you are using a round ceramic Cheddar burner with a Cheddar boiler, I am surprised indeed that it does not steam like hell. I also do not think these things need 'secondary' air. Sounds to me, Keith, that there are some things to try first before hacking it about. Firstly, is the jet holder properly positioned with respect to the air holes in the burner tube.Try different positions either further in or further out & see what effect the change has on lighting up, smell & on the steaming. Then is the jet properly sealed into the holder ie try the effect of a bit of PTFE tape on the threads & is there a washer reqd to seal the jet against the holder? I think the latter suggestions are less likely as it seems you have too much gas relative to the air. BUT remember that with these systems one relies on the pressure & velocity of the gas to draw in the air reqd. for combustion in through the air holes. Therefore if the jet is blocked or badly positioned or the gas is going where it shouldn't then not enough air is entrained for good combustion. You are sure the ceramic has not got displaced from its seating ? Hope these are lucid enough thoughts on return from the pub on a Friday night ! Arthur Walker, Guildford, England - Original Message - From: Keith Manison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, November 09, 2001 10:22 PM Subject: Ceramic Burners > I need some ideas and advice. I'm building a couple of vertical boilered Class A Climaxes using the same chassis/truck/engine combination that I've used before. The difference is that instead of a Roundhouse boiler I'm using one of the > vertical boilers made by Cheddar for Mike Zemek for his Shay project. This was to use the Graham Shay engine, so it should be sized for it. > > Compared to the Roundhouse boilers I've used, and even a Cheddar "Pippit" vertical boiler, the Shay boiler is positively anaemic. It takes forever to raise steam and cannot keep up with the Graham. It uses the same sized burner as the > Pippit boiler, but with a #5 jet instead of a #8. I tried swapping jets, no difference. > > My gut feeling is that there is too little secondary air getting to the top of the burner. The internal diameter of the Pippit boiler is 2 5/8", the diameter of the burner is a tad over 2", leaving a nice annular space of at least 1/4" > around the burner. However, the internal diamter of the Shay boiler is only 2 1/8", leaving barely 1/16" annular gap. Running the Pippit boiler produces no appreciable smell, but the Shay boiler emits a nasty smell which I suspect is caused > by incomplete combustion of the butane. > > What is the opinion of ceramic burner uses and experts on the list? Should I set to and drill some secondary air holes around the firebox section of the boiler at about level with the top of the burner to improve combustion, or should I > install the Pippit boiler instead! > > Cheers > > Keith > > -- > === > Keith Manison Phone (876)702-0337 > 7 Mulberry CloseFax (876)702-0661 > Jacks Hill P.A.Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Kingston 6, Jamaica W.I. >
Re: Radient poker burners; very long version
- Original Message - From: Kevin O'Connor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 8:28 PM Subject: Radient poker burners; very long version > Only the properly > operated ceramic burner utilizes the principal of radiation >can the burner be made to radiate using whatever material that the >burner is made of This hits the nail on the head. Some of you may have seen my Mike Gaskin vert. boilered Shay running at DH. When I got it, it was a lousy steamer. Mike had designed it for meths, but at the last minute the client had insisted on a change to gas, & Mike had fitted a doughnut shaped slotted burner. It did not raise steam well, used a lot of gas & froze up the tank. In desperation I retro fitted a slightly modified Cheddar ceramic burner & now it steams like hell on a low gas setting. As Kevin explains - & thank you Kevin for the authoritative dissertation - the principle is the important thing & can be implemented in a number of ways. An approach used in the distant past was to stuff bits of the SS mesh sold as kettle scourers up the flue tube. I did not find this made too much difference & often interfered with good combustion. A caution however - these things are a bit like the firebed of a coal fired loco & keep a close eye on the water level as they have a bit more in the way of damage potential if the boiler runs dry. Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Fw: Alcohol burners
- Original Message - From: Art Walker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 12:34 PM Subject: Re: Alcohol burners > Rob van Dort in Holland has done me a little sketch of this & I will forward > a gif to anyone interested who mails me. > > Art Walker, Guildford England > - Original Message - > From: Harry Siebert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 11:00 AM > Subject: Re: Alcohol burners > > > > Russell, > > > > in our last surviving german periodical a design for an > > adjustable wick burner was given last month: > > > > - Wick made of stainless steel wool > > - Sliding "shroud" tube running on the outside of the > > fixed wick holding tube. > > > > The author claimes a 1 to 6 adjustability for the flame > > size - whatever this may mean in delivered heat ;-) > > > > HTH > > Harry, Munich > > > > > > > > Russell Shaffer schrieb: > > > > > > Is there a way to control an alcohol burner? > > >
Re: SR&RL #24/scale
Yes it is way too small for 45mm track & too small also for 32mm.The true ratio for the latter should be 1/19 (& 13.7 for 45mm) whereas the RH model is, if memory serves right, 1/22.5. But remember businesses have to think of their markets & a true scale #24 would not get round most 32mm garden layouts & a 50' passenger car - well forget it. For the same reason the RH Forney is technically a 'single Fairlie' - OK for you guys over there a 'Mason Bogie'. If you compare the Maine Forneys with the Forneys used on the various 'Els' - which I guess had radii much closer to our model layouts - you will find that the latter had a much shorter wheelbase. Track radius on the Maine systems was very generous by NG standards. Art Walker, Guildford, England. - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 5:20 PM Subject: Re: SR&RL #24 > In a message dated 10/26/2001 2:01:00 AM Eastern Standard Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > The two foot gauge locos must be popular, as Roundhouse, a UK company, sells > > a whole lot of model of the Sandy River and Rangeley Lakes Railroad's > Number > > 24! If I am not mistaken, Jim Curry of Maine has a project going to build a > > model of the No. 23 which was an even heavier 2-6-2 than the 24! I, for > one, > > can't wait to see it hit the No. 1 gauge rails here soon! > > I'd like to see one built to prototype scale: 7/8ths inch to 1 ft. The #24 > is regaugeable to 32mm, but it looks too small (my opinion) on 45mm track. > > Pete >
Meths v Gas/ ceramic retrofit
>What I don't like is the noise (potentially could be eliminated with ceramic >burners, but you couldn't retrofit a poker burner with a cermic unit --well maybe you could. The Cheddar Models/Bruce Engineering ugly duckling - the name of which escapes me - has a cone shaped disk of ceramic material firing along the fire tube. The disk is the same diameter as the firetube 'tho the loco concerned has cross tubes in the forward part of the tube. Might be worth a try, however. Art Walker, Guildford, England
Re: 46 roads in PA
- Original Message - From: Keith Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 9:13 PM Subject: Re: 46 roads in PA > P.S. Why is it that folks refer to 1-1/4" gauge as "O" gauge, with the "OH" > stated first. 'cos they're sensitive about being thought of as 'gay Joes' Art Walker, Guildford, England.
Re: BAGRS Project Locomotive/ Brazil
I know for sure that Ernie Noa is building one 'cos we went in pursuit of the prototype when he was across in England in the summer. I am not sure if he is on the list, but I daresay we will hear about progress in future issues of Small Scale Steam Hobbyist of which he is editor. Art Walker, Guildford, England - Original Message - From: Norman S Briskman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 10:16 PM Subject: Re: BAGRS Project Locomotive > > I do have another question. Has anyone out there constructed, or is > constructing, the Keith Bucklitch "Brazil"? > > Norman
Re: Ceramic Burner for Ruby?
Without a boiler rebuild the only way I can think of is to copy the Cheddar Models 'Iver' design ie. a circular, vertically mounted ceramic firing along the firetube. This must act simply as a diffuser rather than a radiant heater. At least it would be quiet. Art Walker, Guildford, England - Original Message - From: Chris Wolcott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 8:40 PM Subject: Ceramic Burner for Ruby? > Has anyone ever tried making a ceramic burner for the Ruby?
Re: Shipping containers for Ga 1 models
Lots of bubblewrap & in a secure outer container - luggage case or photographic case - if stashing in the hold, something that can be opened easily for inspection if taking as carryon. Art Walker, Guildford England. - Original Message - From: Mike Eorgoff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2001 3:52 PM Subject: Shipping containers for Ga 1 models > Since I expect carry on of our small engines to become a great headache due > to recent events, can the list expound upon how to build a shipping > container so that engines can be shipped properly? > > Mike Eorgoff > near Chicago > >
