Re: Accucraft live steam Daylight GS-4: It's for real!
Really exciting Jeff! I saw the sparkie version at The Train Shop Yesterday. Looks nice. I really have to convince Bing, Charlie and Cliff to start thinking hard about a live steam version of their West Side Heisler!! I would love one of those. Can't wait to see that Daylight in action. Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com On Friday, March 14, 2003, at 07:06 PM, Jeffrey Williams wrote: Over the past year, there's been a lot of tantalizing hints about a live steam SP Daylight GS-4 from Accucraft. St. Aubin Station started taking deposits on this loco nine months ago. Being one of the world's greatest optimists, I plunked down my deposit. Now I've got some confidence that I will eventually see that loco. Here's today's response from Cliff Luscher from Accucraft as an addendum to a question about my K-27: Dear Jeff, I am glad that your problem is solved for the K-27 live steam loco. Bing, the owner of the company, told me this morning that we will have GS-4 live steam in approximately a year. It is the next locomotive to be engineered into a live steam locomotive after our C-21 comes out this summer. The Daylight Passenger Cars are due out soon. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thank you for your inquiry. Cliff Accucraft Trains == OhBoyOhBoyOhBoy!!!
Larry Bangham Whistle for Shay
Hello everybody- Just a bit of a heads up. Larry informed me that he will be submitting an article to Steam in the Garden with complete, specific details and drawings on the custom whistle that he made for my Accucraft Mich-Cal Shay. The article may also feature some of my photographs of the installed whistle -- including a nice shot of it in action, blasting a plume of steam. This whistle should be of interest to many locomotive owners due to the fact that it's cab mounted design could be used on many different engines, even Ruby owners could employ this type. The whistle is of a new design that larry first used on his coal fired DJB K-27. The top "bell" of the whistle has a center support rod (made of stainless) and a set screw that theoretically can facilitate the adjustment of the tone of the whistle. This differs from Larry's previous designs which used outside brass supports of the "bell" that were non adjustable. All this will be more eloquently covered in Larry's article. Keep your eyes peeled for the article. it will surly be a "must have." Now I just need to convince him to make me one for my Western Maryland Shay! Best regards, Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com
Re: Is the list on line?
Everyone must be voting! -Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com > From: Landon Solomon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2002 21:21:44 -0600 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: Is the list on line? > > We're here, just not talking much ATM. > > Trot, the fox who needs to be in bed. > > At 09:13 PM 11/4/02, you wrote: >> I haven't seen any messages from the list since Dave Cole's discussion >> of digital disasters, network nincompoops and Internet incompetence. >> Are we still operating or has everyone lost their (electronic) tongues? > > > > > /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, > ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon\ "There is a >> \_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." > >
Re: Should I buy an Aster Shay? & my bio
Thanks for the feedback every body. I bought the Shay. The first run went very well. Nice slow speed and the burner had a good quiet rumble to it. Clark, I really appreciate the operational tips. I am familiar with the water pump bypass feature as I have an O.S. Krauss with this function -- though I was not aware that the WM Shay had it. To answer Arthurs question about my profession I figure that I will give a brief bio since I have not yet officially introduced my self to the list. My name is Eric Maschwitz. I live in Berkeley CA I work as a professional model builder for a company in Northern CA that builds and designs science museum exhibitory. Over the years I have also built models for movies, television and advertising. Three years ago, after a trip to Durango CO and a ride on the D&SNG I decided to get into large scale model railroading and after much research on the various scales I decided to go with 1:20.3 models. My first model was a little electric industrial switcher that I kitbashed from a MDC big hustler locomotive. This engine and a string of Bachmann ore cars composed my first train. With no layout and no back yard to build one in, my train collected dust for about a year. Then on a whim I purchased an Accucraft Ida for myself. I quickly realized that live steam was the ultimate in model railroading. I was hooked. I then placed an order (one of the first orders entered) for an Accucraft Shay and a few months later had purchased a C-16. Less than one month after owning the C-16 I traded it in for my one inch scale O.S. Krauss that can easily pull me and my girlfriend around. One year ago I created a web site devoted to this hobby and offered my services as a model builder to other model railroaders. You can regularly find me running trains with the Golden Gate Live Steamers in Tilden Regional park in Berkeley, Operating trains with the Bay Area Garden Railway Soc., or wrenching on steam engines with my friends here in the bay area. Thanks again for the helpful tips and feel free to check out some pictures of me with my ride-on engine on the Golden Gate Live steamers web site: http://www.ggls.org/pictures/Spring2002/G_2008.JPG http://www.ggls.org/pictures/Public2002/G_1858.JPG Also my personal site: www.grabiron.com Regards, Eric Maschwitz > From: Clark Lord <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 07:33:00 -0700 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: Should I buy an Aster Shay? > > Absolutely buy it quick. I have one I built from a kit in 1991. It runs very > nicely and will pull around 35 or so USA style four axle plastic freight cars > on > level track. Mine developed a howl when the burner was lit. The howl went > away > when the smoke box door was open. So I just drilled a 1/4 inch hole up from > the > bottom of the engine into the smoke box area. This stopped the howl and I can > run with the smoke box door closed. > > That is the only problem I've had. You will find the gas valve on top of the > tender to be very sensitive to small movements. Small movement makes for > large > flame change. Most all gas fired Asters have this problem. You just learn to > live with it. > > This engine has a bypass valve on the left side of the engine cab. When > closed > water is pumped into the boiler and when open the water returns to the tender. > Begin with the valve open and when the engine is running, look into the water > fill hatch and see if you can see water squirting from the return line. This > is > a sure way to know the axle pump is working okay. The axle pump is capable of > filling the boiler completely when closed. You will know when this happens > because water will come out the stack while running. This is a hint to open > the > bypass valve. After a while you will learn when to open and close this valve. > If you close it till there is just a dribble coming from the return line you > will find that it keeps the water level at half glass. > > I have run my engine for over 2 hours in one session by just refilling the > tender and adding gas now and then. > > I now have around 12-15 gauge one steamers and the Western Maryland continues > to > be one of my favorites. But then I'm a gear head and I like geared engines. > Maybe that's why I have 5 of them now. > > Good luck. I know you will love this engine. I will be happy to field any > further questions you might have. Another on this list said to just run it > and > then find any leaks etc. I completely agree with that procedure. > > Clark > > Eric Maschwitz wrote: >> >> Hello- >> >> I have come across a deal on an Aster Western Maryland Shay -- It is a >> spectacular deal. The engine
Should I buy an Aster Shay?
Hello- I have come across a deal on an Aster Western Maryland Shay -- It is a spectacular deal. The engine was factory built and has never been run, only shelf displayed. I intend to run this engine and I am 99.9% convinced that I should go ahead and buy it, but I thought I would see if anybody has any advice on what I should look for that might need to be done to a 17 year old engine, that has never been run, before I operate it. I.E. do I need to replace gaskets or piston packing, check for stiff mechanical motion or other stuff like that? Any advice is greatly appreciated. I would also be interested in peoples overall impression of this engine from an operational standpoint. Thanks again. -Eric M.
Re: Whistle while you work, well almost.
The headlamp on the Ida, Mimi and Mich Cal Shay all come apart in the same way. The cap on the back has a hole in the center for bulb wires and two shallow indentations -- one on either side of the hole. Take a pair of needle nose pliers with the jaws spread slightly and insert the tips of the jaws in the indentations. The back can then be unscrewed by twisting the handles of the pliers like a screw driver. The back comes out and then the turned aluminum reflector and glass lens can be slipped out. Regards- Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com > From: colorado <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 19:01:06 -0400 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: Whistle while you work, well almost. > > I like Tom's idea for a working headlight. I've got an Accucraft Ida. Big > headlight. Should be lots > of room in there but I don't see how it comes apart. Is the back simply a > press fit or has it > been soldered? Removing the screw in the base doesn't seem to be the way to > go. Anyone tried this? > > thanks > Brian Scott > >
Accu. MIch Cal Shay
Got mine today. Serial No. 13 (lucky 13.) She sure is a beauty. The first run went well. Steam time of at least 20 minutes, really quiet burner, LOTS of power/tractive effort and a good slow speed. There are some nice features on the production model that were not on Accu's pre prod. model. These include a blow down and a water drain for the lubricator. The blow down is supplied separately and you must install it if you want to use it. The trucks come in a small cardboard box and must be installed with a flathead screw driver. The engine is packed in Accu's usual metal cradle like the C-16. So far I am very, very pleased. This engine is indeed a bargain!! -Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com
Re: Accucraft
I was just there on Friday to pick up a Ruby 2 for a friend. Cliff mentioned that there was a chance that there would be as many as 25 of them (Shays) in a container coming in May. I also inquired about other future offerings and he confirmed the announcement about the K-27 and the C-21, though these offerings are years out from now. He also mentioned that they were contemplating offering a larger three cylinder, three truck Shay most likely to be based on one of West Sides. I continued trying to convince them to offer a live steam Heisler. No plans for that yet though (rats!!) Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com > From: Jeffrey Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 19:11:30 -0800 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Accucraft > > I was at Accucraft HQ this afternoon to get some gaskets and asked Bing > about the Shay release and the SP Daylight in live steam. Bing said > that the first 5 production Shays were in the next container - one to > two weeks. He said that they have a back order for over 500 units, so > it will take a while for them to clear that demand. He also said that > the live steam SP Daylight delivery is a year and a half from now. > >
Re: Clearances between tracks
Hey Jeff- Make sure there's room for that live steam K-27 I'm going to buy ;) -Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com
Brass Escutcheon Pins
I was just about to order a life-time supply of brass escutcheons from MacMaster Carr. Does anybody know what size is best for rivets and the like? The smallest they have in Mac. Carr is 19 gauge. Do they come in a smaller diameter. I heard Sulphur Springs sells escutcheons. Does anyone know what size they sell? Thanks for the help. Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com
Re: New Accucraft Locos
Hey Jeff- The only one I have details on is the forney. I saw it in person the last time I was at Accucraft HQ (when I picked up my C-16) What I saw was basically another ruby rehash with brass running boards a rear truck and a nice looking brass cab/bunker with spring loaded doors that snap shut. -Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com > From: Jeffrey Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 16:10:59 -0800 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: New Accucraft Locos > > The Accucraft website was just updated and shows the following live > steam locos "under development" > > Superior 2-6-0 Live Steam (Classic Series, 1:20.3) > > C-21 2-8-0 Live Steam (Silver Stream Series, 1:20.3) > > Forney Live Steam (Classic Series, 1:20.3) > > K-27 Live Steam (Silver Stream Series, 1:20.3) > > Anyone have details on any of these? > >
Re: What's the deal with JB Weld?
Richard- To prep the parts for JB Weld you should follow standard epoxy procedures. Degrease all parts -- I use lacquer thinner. hard or shiny surfaces should be scuffed or drilled if possible so the adhesive has some "tooth" to grab on to. Preferably you will not be gluing on painted surfaces but on to bare metal. -Eric > From: Richard Finlayson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 20:31:14 -0800 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: What's the deal with JB Weld? > > What sort of prep is required on the parts? For example, do the brass > bits need to be bare? I presume that oil on either part would > interfere... but is that the case? Specific to this K4, I'll need to > remove some insulation in the smokebox, rebend the tabs for the > bracket, then dab on the JB. Any sort of prep to be recommended in > this case? > > By the way, on that loos K4 piston rod o-ring problem that several of > you helped me with earlier: after getting a set of drawings it was > easy to see how it was assembled and I was able to remove the o-ring > cover plate without any major disassembly. The o-ring was coaxed out > of the cavity and there was a glob of firm, not hard, gunk in there. > I cleaned the o-ring up, hit it with a blast of WD40, then > re-assembled. Firing it on the test stand showed no more leaking than > the other side so I think I'm set. With two K4s side by side, both > have more leaking at the piston rod gland than I would have expected, > but under power and in operation the gland seems to tighten up, and > they couldn't run any better. > > Thanks, > > -Richard > >> I just bought the slow cure version (several minutes working time and at >> least 6 hour cure) at Pep Boy's auto parts store. It is available in 1 >> oz size or 6 oz sizes for shops. There is a fast cure version (4 minute >> working time) in 1 oz sizes as well. >> >> Clark >> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >>> >>> In a message dated 12/20/01 7:10:06 AM Central Standard Time, >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: >>> >>> << Somehow I don't expect to find JB Weld on the pegboard at my local Lowe's or Home Depot >> >>> >>> Available at both. >>> >>> Jim > > -- > == > Richard Finlayson > [EMAIL PROTECTED] >
Re: What's the deal with JB Weld?
As Jeff pointed out make sure you get the long cure stuff. JB weld is great stuff for live steamers. On my Ida I drilled my smoke box for rivet detail and inserted brass estuchens (sp?) then fixed them on the back side with drops of JB instead of the usual solder. It works great. I'll anchor my brass porter shields on to the smoke box the same way, one of these days. -Eric
Re: Ruby & project
I have modified many of my accucraft knuckle equipped cars to have the logging style slotted knuckle. I also mounted slotted knuckles on my Accu. Ida. I will have photos available soon. The slotted knuckle is probably the most versatile coupler you could have, plus they really look neat. Reference photos are available in the book "Railroads in the Woods" by Oso Publishing. This book is loaded with fantastic photos. I know that it is impossible to modify Kadee couplers in this way because there isn't enough material to drill for the pin, but the larger couplers like Bachmann, Aristo, Accucraft, etc. work fine. It is important to note that in the woods anything goes as far as couplers are concerned. If there was a height mismatch (which was common) then they would simply use an offset link or long rooster (draw bar) to compensate. -Eric Maschwitz > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:52:37 EST > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: Ruby & project > > In a message dated 12/15/01 10:40:07 AM Eastern Standard Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > >> What coupler is suitable for Ruby #1 ? > > Jun, > > I looked at the photos on your web site and noticed you have a link-and-pin > coupler on the Ruby. > > I have two suggestions: > > 1)To connect to a car with a knuckle coupler, the prototype railroads cut > a slot in the knuckle for the "link" bar, and put a long pin through the link > inside the knuckle. [ Someone posted a link to a photo recently, but I can't > remember where. Anyone ?] > > 2)On my C-16 I have installed a knuckle coupler in the link pocket - > again, as the prototype used to do. My knuckle coupler is from Aristocraft - > they mate with the Accucraft couplers. I filed and cut the shaft to fit the > pocket on the front beam, and then drilled a hole for the pin. > > You have a nice web site - I enjoyed the pictures even without Japanese > language support on my browser! And you found a couplee of resources I did > not know about - such as http://www.justtheticketengineering.co.uk/. > > (For you left coast guys working on G1MRA 'Project" locos, the latter web site > lists all kinds of goodies for that loco.) > > Pete > >
Re: Steam oil Again
I am interested in this thread too. I have seen that there are as many different types of steam oil as there are locomotives. One bottle I have from St. Aubin Station is really low viscosity and sort of a light caramel color and makes incredible smoke clouds out of the stack on my engine (!) Another type which I got out of a 55 gal. drum from Golden Gate Live Steamers is black as tar and the consistency of molasses. Yet another type I have seen come included with small stationary type steam engines was as low viscosity as water and was lime green in color! I would be curious if anybody has any ideas on what the differences are between the colors/weights/grades of steam oil. -Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com > From: "Ciambrone, Steve @ OS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 13:25:28 -0800 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Steam oil Again > > Ran out of steam oil so I went to the local shop which is San Val, and > bought some "steam oil" which I was told was obtained from Accucraft. The > young guy behind the counter told me I can mix my own using 30 weight and > Marvel Mystery oil. OK I have been into this long enough to know that this > information was incorrect. But when I opened the container I had just > bought, it was black as coal and had a strong odor. It does not look or > smell like the stuff I was using before which I had bought from a previous > GR supplier years ago. > > Sincerely > Steve Ciambrone > Sr. Test Engineer > L-3 Ocean Systems >
Re: Spies Wanted -- Accucraft Live Steam Daylight
Hey Jeff- I might go for the black version to fill the void in my collection where my C-16 used to be. -Eric > From: Jeffrey Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 07:54:44 -0800 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: Spies Wanted -- Accucraft Live Steam Daylight > > I put down a deposit for a live steam version this week through St Aubin > Station. Patrick (at St Aubin) talked to the Accucraft sales manager (Frank?) > before accepting my deposit to verify availability. The electric version is > supposed to come out in May, the live steam version several months later. > Accucraft said that they are only going to build as many as they have orders > for, and in fact are changing to "built to order" on all their live steamers. > The Daylight cars will be available individually or as a full set of 16 cars > (some are duplex and triplex). The cars will have full interiors and > lighting. > The cars probably won't come out all at once but will be spread out over a > year > or so. Accucraft will build GS-3 versions in black if you don't want the > Daylight GS-4 livery. I have a live steam Accucraft C16, and based on the > detail, quality and performance of that loco, I imagine that the Daylight will > be a fine piece of equipment. > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >> In a message dated 11/21/01 8:52:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: >> >> << I saw an ad in the current Garden Railroad magazine for an Accucraft SP >> Daylight live steam engine coming in the Spring. Does anyone on the list >> have any information on this engine? I've gotten mixed info on whether this >> engine is going to be produced. >> >> Don >> Had the electric version on my layout. Beautiful. Will quiz Accu when I talk >> to them next. >> >> Roger Cutter >> >> > >
Re: Footplate cuisine
I have seen that book. it's called Manifold Destiny -- no lie! Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com > From: "Gary Broeder" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 17:09:55 -0800 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: Footplate cuisine > > Those of the list, > > There is actually a cookbook available on the subject of engine cooked > meals. > > GaryB > > > > >> I used to cook whole meals on the manifold of my 600hp CAT while trucking >> freight across the nation. >> Jess >> >> >> > >
Re: Painted C-16
Thanks. I think it looks a lot less toy like. More like a serious model of a locomotive. I scuffed the original yellow paint with a scotch brite pad and primed it with Krylon epoxy primer and finish coated it with epoxy gloss black. I then baked the painted tender and cab, domes, etc. in a 250 degree oven for about 20 minutes. After this was complete I used my airbrush and floquill colors to weather it. I finished it off by painting the reflector in the headlamp silver. I also disassembled the air pumps and slipped a piece of aluminum tube over the pistons so they are shiny silver the way it should be. Just like my Ida I kept the disassembly to a minimum when I painted it and spent more time masking instead. -Eric > From: "Don Plasterer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 10:01:35 -0400 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: Painted C-16 > > Eric, > Great pain job. Thanks for the pics. What type of paint and weathering > techniques did you use? > > DOn > > Don > > >> From: Eric Maschwitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Subject: Painted C-16 >> Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2001 21:26:23 -0700 >> >> I threatened to do it and now it's done. I painted and weathered my new >> C-16 "Bee." I'm quite happy with the results. And she seems to be a great >> runner too. There are pictures of the finished (almost) product at the >> following URLs. I still need to get some decals made for the loco and >> tender. >> >> http://www.grabiron.com >> >> http://silcon.com/~machine/Grabironevent%20page.html >> >> http://silcon.com/~machine/Stemgallery.html >> >> >> -Eric >> > > > _ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > >
Re: Accucraft steam C-16, realistic rolling stock,
I'm with you Vance. I am afraid I have become a bit of a snob when it comes to rolling stock and now I only go for the true scale stuff. Unfortunately I have yet to see my loco pull my Hartford high side gon and CTM brass tank car because the track at Tony Dixons wouldn't accommodate the huge 1:20 equipment. Jeff W. and I had to remove the sun shades from our windows to squeak past Tonys fence posts. I didn't even bother rolling out the Accu. flanger. I'll run a proper freight consist at the BAGRS steamup at Hunters Point SF at the end of this month. -Eric > From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 14:00:24 -0600 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Accucraft steam C-16, realistic rolling stock, > >> Ran my black #268 yesterday for about an hour. Pulled just the Hartford >> gon,(working on debugging track, no time to build cars). The gon has Accu >> couplers, they match up just fine, no problems. > > This is most interesting! I noticed that the *front* couplers on the 278 > matched up perfectly with the *raised* rear coupler on my 42. I can't fathom > what the rationale was, but it appears that the modernized locos have > correctly > positioned couplers, while the old-timers have lower ones. This would make > sense if they were link-and-pin, but since they're knuckles, why not position > them so they're compatible with the rolling stock? > > In any case, I found some individual Wiha metric nut-drivers at Caboose > Hobbies, so I should be able to fix the pocket now. I appreciate all the > pointers to various sites offering these in sets, but all the sets I could > find > started at 3mm (which I have already -- came with the loco) and went up from > there. You need a 2, 3 and 4 to work on this engine, while an 8mm is totally > useless. Caboose is the answer. > > I was in Denver this weekend, and ran the live steam 42 once Saturday at the > Denver GRS steamup and twice yesterday at the Sidestreet Bannerworks > steamup. It ran almost flawlessly every time and pulled three wood/metal > boxcars and a wood/metal caboose without effort. Dick Schafer and I double- > headed (42 + 278) on that train and it was all we could do to keep it crawling > at a realistic pace, those engines are so strong. But they run quite well at > low > speed. Moving around the track was a problem, because the run was treated > like a railfan photo special -- everyone at the steamup was down on one knee > with a camera stuck to his face. We only ran 30 minutes that time, but my > earlier runs were 40 and 55 min. on one servicing. > > To those who think it makes no difference what you pull, let me say that the > C- > 16s pulling detailed and accurate D&RGW rolling stock attracted huge > attention, and brought many, many positive comments. A beautiful loco > pulling a long string of authentic cars in a well-done garden setting will > make > your heart leap. Saturday, we also ran two trains in opposing directions on > the single mainline, with a brakeman for each train and a dispatcher, and had > a great time negotiating the passing sidings (one of which was not quite long > enough to accomodate my train, so we had to do saw-by passes each time > we came to that junction). It was a hell of a lot of fun! Our host, Marc > Horovitz, was watching the commotion and said "this is what it's all about." > There were two real engineers in the crew (Santa Fe, Amtrak), both grinning > ear to ear. The dispatcher, our own John Clark, commented that he hoped to > see R/C and whistles on all the locos next year so we could communicate only > using whistle signals. That sent a shiver of anticipation down my spine. > What > a gas that will be! > > The only downside is that my engine started emitting the mysterious > intermittent ticking sound that others have seen on the 42. The consensus > seems to be that it must be in the crosshead somewhere, since this is the only > way in which the 42's running gear seems to differ from the 268/278 versions. > It seems to happen only at slow speeds, and not consistently (yet?). It's not > too terribly distracting, but it's certainly noticeable and detracts somewhat > from the otherwise high level of realism and enjoyment. > > I must say, though, that I'm delighted with the engine and think it's an > incredible bargain. > > regards, > -vance- > > Vance Bass > Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA > Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass >
Painted C-16
I threatened to do it and now it's done. I painted and weathered my new C-16 "Bee." I'm quite happy with the results. And she seems to be a great runner too. There are pictures of the finished (almost) product at the following URLs. I still need to get some decals made for the loco and tender. http://www.grabiron.com http://silcon.com/~machine/Grabironevent%20page.html http://silcon.com/~machine/Stemgallery.html -Eric
Just picked up my C-16
I swung by Accucraft HQ today and picked up my C-16. It's a real beauty. I got a smokin' deal on it because it was used. It's No. 268 in the Bee livery. My preference would have been black but what can I say it was a good deal. Anyway that brings me to my issue. I would like to paint this beast and although I have had some experience painting a live steamer from my painting my Ida. I would love to hear any advise anybody might have for getting good results. I just have to do something about that yellow. It looks too toy like. Also I want to make some custom waterslide decals for lettering it when I am finished so if anybody can recommend some one who could make those up that would be great. Thanks. Eric M. www.grabiron.com
Re: Accucraft C-16
Vance- I know three people with Accucraft C-16's two of them have installed RC gear the other (Harlan Barr) kept his manual. One thing that both people with RC did was drop a sealed gel-cel battery directly into the water in the tender to power the RC gear. RC in the C-16 is tricky. I have yet to see the Johnson bar get successfully controlled by a servo. The problem that both folks had was that J-bar would periodically get jammed after the engine heated up. One guy was also having huge problems with glitching. The glitching combined with the easily jammable J-bar resulted in great frustration as the loco would screech to a halt in the middle of the run. Both folks would end up running the engine by throttle control only. The C-16 runs good though, and it is strong -- easily pulling 20+ cars on level track. The only other draw back is that the drivers easily slip on certain types of track. I can tell you that code 215 nickel silver track wont provide much grip. It sure is a good looking engine though. I'm thinking I might get one myself. -Eric M. > From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 22:23:08 -0600 > To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Accucraft C-16 > I got my live steam Accucraft C-16 last night (finally!). It's the old-timer, > No. > 42, and beautifully done. But I do have some questions and observations I > would like to share with you. > > I note that the footplate extension (that flap between the cab floor and the > tender) is hinged at the bottom of the side floors, rather than the middle > well > where the firebox it. In other words, it does not extend over to the tender, > but > just hangs down about 1/2" too high, does nothing useful, and probably gets in > the way of various operations in the cab. Are they all attached this way? > What have you done about it? Looks like I'll need to remove the pivot rod, > drill > out the cab mounting brackets at their bottoms, and put in some kind of boss > for the rod to go through. Cotter pins come to mind. > > The headlight looks very nice, but since it's not electrified, they left out > the > bulb, so there's a black hole in the center of the reflector. I removed the > headlight and bracket (4 screws), then removed the headlight from the bracket > (another 4 screws) and then removed the bottom plate from the headlight > casting (two more screws). Seems like it would be relatively easy to insert a > yellow LED and a tiny battery in there, with a micro switch out the bottom. > Has anyone done this already, and if so would you share recommendations? > > The tender is huge, with lots of room for water and a hand pump and/or R/C > gear. Except that they seem to have brazed the whole thing together and you > can't get into the body unless you cut a hole up through the floor. Before I > remove the frame and trucks to attempt this, do we have any other alternatives > to getting into the tender body that I haven't discovered? > > Putting R/C in this one is going to be a big job, it appears. In addition to > the > inaccessible tender tank, the coal bin is filled with a really large gas tank > (which is good) so there is no room for R/C gear there (too bad). The cab is > stuffed full of other appliances and the crew floors are higher than the > footplate, so there's even less room in there than in the Ruby for servos, let > alone a battery pack and RX. And the steam regulator handle sticks way out > the back of the cab. which is going to make placing a servo ... um ... > interesting. The instructions, which I suspect were not written by the loco's > designer, mention that it wasn't designed with R/C in mind (duh!) and that > installing R/C will take some "ingenuity". Yep. > > You won't believe this one. The coupler height is low, set at the Kadee "G"- > scale gauge height. What?!? Looks like some hacking of the rear tender > beam will be in order. Maybe I should just go for all link-and-pin > couplers > > Now, I've got to get all those built-up boxcar kits painted, finish the > caboose, > etc. etc., in addition to "improving" the loco to meet my standards. If they > would have only asked me first, they could have saved me so much trouble! :-) > > Haven't run it yet, so I can't comment on running characteristics, but it was > obviously fired and run some so I trust it will be in pretty good adjustment. > > regards, > -vance- > > Vance Bass > Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA > Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass >
Pulblic track in S.F. Bay Area?
I¹d like to measure the level of interest of gauge 1 live steamers in the San Francisco Bay Area in contributing toward a readily accessible track for all to use. This might be appealing to apartment dwellers, those with small yards and people with limited financial ability. Ann Stephens, Jeffrey Williams and I (all BAGRS and PCLS members) visited the Golden Gate Live Steamers track in Tilden Park (east of Berkeley) recently and talked with their club president, and several GGLS members about resurrecting a gauge 1 track at the GGLS site that has laid dormant for about 10 years. The GGLS folks were very friendly and supportive of such an effort. The GGLS has a tradition of accommodating all live steam gauges at their extensive and well-developed site and a gauge one presence would be welcomed. The Golden Gate Live Steamers has a nice website at www.ggls.org. The area set aside for the gauge one track is a roughly triangular wooded knoll, about 100feet by 80 feet. Some years ago a few GGLS members built a ground-level, egg-shaped loop of about 110 feet of gauge one track on the knoll with 11-12 foot minimum curves and a waist level steaming track. The leveled right-of-way and base for that track still exists but the rails have been removed. A quick survey indicated that with a little effort, an additional loop of about 160-180 foot length could readily be accommodated, requiring some filling or trestle work to provide a level right-of-way. Additional trackage could be imagined for a "mountain division" with smaller radii curves and grades for those with small RC and/or geared locomotives. The GGLS site is very well developed, with ample parking, picnic area, meeting room, running water, restrooms, etc and is secured by locked cyclone fencing. The site is available for members use year-around by keyed access. Membership in the GGLS is $25/year plus $25 initiation. The cost of resurrecting the gauge one track would be borne by those interested. If you are interested in this effort, please contact me through this message board or directly to my e-mail at: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hopefully we can find some steamers who are interested in helping us bring this plan to life. -Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com
Re: Ruby Prototype?
> www.powaymidlandrr.org Thanks for posting the link! She looks like a great big Ruby to me. Accucraft has always said that Ruby was loosely based on Baldwin practice. Seems to be true. -Eric Maschwitz www.grabiron.com
Re: Greetings
Thanks for the words of welcome. To answer your question Steve I am waiting for the Accucraft shay. (Mich Cal #2) I just couldn't say no to the price. Roger, the C-16 is Harlan Barr's I would love to get more photos of it in action. It's a great runner. Thanks again to all who took the time to peek at the web site this weekend. (I registered a lot of hits) -Eric www.grabiron.com
Greetings
Hello- My name is Eric Maschwitz. For those of you who don't know me, allow me to introduce myself. I am just getting involved in live steam and a new member to this list-serve. I am a relatively recent transplant to CA. I moved from Minnesota a while back where I was born and raised. The iron mining and farming operations of the "Arrowhead" region of Minnesota got me interested in machinery and steam power at an early age. Currently I work at a fabrication shop where we manufacture artificial rock for zoos, homes, and museums. This endeavor funds my two main hobbies of live steaming and flying radio controlled gliders. I joined BAGRS a while back and have gone to three of their events so far and I also participated in the Small Scale Summer Steamup in Sacramento last month. As far as my modeling preferences go, I am one of the many people who has gotten into the hobby thanks to Accucrafts Ruby. By the time I was ready to purchase a Ruby the Ida sadle tank version was available and I bought one of those instead. My Ida is weathered and customized and she runs on RC. As far as rolling stock goes, I am a bit of a snob because I lean heavily towards wood and brass kits and cars. I also recently finished my web site www.grabiron.com and I would like to give a personal invitation for anyone to take a look at the site and see pictures of my trains. In many ways it was just as fun building the web site as it is building railroad equipment. So that's it, in a nutshell. Good to meet you all and happy steaming. Eric Maschwitz Bekeley, CA
