Re: Deck for elevated track ...

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Walt,

Is Wedlock that goochie stuff that's not availble in CA?  I would imagine
that trucking would double the landed price.

Jon
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 6:40 AM
Subject: Re: Deck for elevated track ...


> Dave,
> Since this will be a club track and will probably be used indoors 99% of
the
> time indoors, I would recommend 1/4" or 3/8" thick marine grade plywood.
It
> is very important that the edges be filled or sealed to reduce porosity
due
> to end grain before the wood is primed and painted. I do not recommend any
> form of Latex paint. These are generally porous and tend to "chalk." That
> becomes a selling point, the manufacturers call it a self cleaning paint!
A
> good hard enamel will resist the oil stain penetration, alcohol fires,
etc.
> The recycled materials: Plex, Trex, Wetlock, Etc are excellent for this
> purpose EXCEPT they are danged heavy. I am looking at a new laminar
> aluminum/plastic material for the next portable track to be used at The
> Naples Depot.
> There is an imported Luan mahogany plywood that has exceptional waterproof
> glue, it is very inexpensive, like 12 to $14.00 per sheet. Unfortunately
> their quality control is very poor, and a lot of it never gets any glue.
> After about a dozen P.E.T.S. frames in use, Wetlock is best for
outdoors,
> Marine ply well protected for indoors.
> Keep your steam up!
> Walt
>
 

Re: Rooney (Ruby/Forney cross breed)

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Thanks Salty.  :<)
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Rooney (Ruby/Forney cross breed)


> Jon-
>  Nice piece of work you are doing here.  I printed out the pictures
and
> will file them away in my ideas for the Ruby that I am collecting in hopes
> that my Ruby might show up here some day.
>
> Salty
>
 

Re: Rooney (Ruby/Forney cross breed)

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Vance,

Here are two pic links to Rooney progress.  She still needs considerable
detailing.  Please feel free to use the pics on your site, however don't
link to mine as they won't be there for long.

This was an easy conversion for those interested.  The only machining
necessary was turning the wheel flanges for clearance.  Selection of a
smaller truck/wheel set would eliminate this need.

http://home.earthlink.net/~jonbloom/mvc-005s.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~jonbloom/mvc-009s.jpg

I did learn a valuable lesson from this exercise.  Don't assume the factory
builds parts true.  I used the floor plate as a template for hole drilling
on the new plate.  At the forward most point, a large screw is located at
the center fixing the boiler.  At the back of the floor plate, two screws
fix the floor to the cross-frame bar.  On the factory floor plate, the two
rear holes are not parallel to the ends, consequently the floor plate sits
at a slight cant to the centerline of the frame.  It was not enough to
perceive on the shorter factory plate, but the cant is exaggerated on the
extended floor.

I took for granted the factory plate would be a satisfactory template (and
should have checked it with a square before drilling and assembling).
Visually, I compensated for the cant by turning the cab back into alignment
with the boiler/frame.  You would never know unless it was pointed out and
you were looking for it (which now everyone on this list will likely do when
they see it run).

I still may make another floor plate (extra holes would really bug me) and
extend the truck rearward.  It was mounted at the rear frame cross member
for convenience, but could be a little further back to reduce the tank
overhang which is not quite prototypical.  All in all, the change is
dramatic.  Elimination of the side tanks, a wood cab and rear truck make the
loco very different in appearance.  I am satisfied with Rooney.  :<)

Jon


- Original Message -
From: VR Bass <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: Rooney (Ruby/Forney cross breed)


> Hey, Jon,
>
> I was wondering if you have any further pictures of your Ruby
> conversion.  I'd like to include pointers to a pic on your site, or put a
> copy on my server, but if there's further progress I'll wait for a more
> recent photo.  Let me know, please, if it's all right to show what
> you're doing on the Ruby page, and the URL of a newer pic, if any.
>
> thanks,
>   -vance-
>
 

Re: Rooney (Ruby/Forney cross breed)

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Vance,

Just finished painting the cab roof and tank.  I'll post a pic link early
next week (heading out of town for the weekend).  Probably better if you
copy the photo and use at your site.  I'll soon be giving up the dialup
account for a fat pipe :<) so the link won't be good forever.  (Speed is
like hotrod horsepower, you never have enough)
Jon
- Original Message -
From: VR Bass <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: Rooney (Ruby/Forney cross breed)


> Hey, Jon,
>
> I was wondering if you have any further pictures of your Ruby
> conversion.  I'd like to include pointers to a pic on your site, or put a
> copy on my server, but if there's further progress I'll wait for a more
> recent photo.  Let me know, please, if it's all right to show what
> you're doing on the Ruby page, and the URL of a newer pic, if any.
>
> thanks,
>   -vance-
>
 

Re: I Love Spring and running Trains

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Hey Bob,

Great goin'!  How is your run time, and what did you do to fix it (since we
ran in December)?

Jon
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 12:56 PM
Subject: I Love Spring and running Trains


> Ah the warmth of the sun and just enough crisp to the air to give a good
> plume is the way it was this morning.  Burned up a half a can of butane
this
> morning running my vertical boiler locomotive.  It is such a pleasure when
a
> project finally completes itself and runs just the way you want it.
Pulled
> four cars over the now existing 4% grades!
> http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/mvc-018s.jpg
> Bob Starr
>
>
 

Re: materials

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Royce,

I pulled out my handy dandy Copper Alloy Guide, courtesy of Olin Mills.
Unfortunately they cross Olin alloy numbers with ASTM specs.  In any event,
P-bronze is between 92% and 98% copper, and the balance being tin, with the
exception of 0.1% Phosphor.  Commercial bronze is 90% copper and 10% zinc.
Brass can contain as much as 37% zinc and even a little lead, the balance
being copper.  A local bearing shop sells "bearing bronze" (SAE 660) as 85%
copper, 6% tin, 8% lead and 1% zinc, +- 1% on most of the values.  The lead
makes for a slippery wear surface.

Hope this helps.

Jon
- Original Message -
From: Royce Woodbury <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: materials


> Thanks for responding, Bob.
>
>I was beginning to think my questions weren't being posted.  So is
phosphor
> bronze the same as SAE 660 bearing bronze.  I ask because 660 is easy to
get
> anywhere, and if I ask for phosphor bronze, I know someone will ask me
what
> composition I want.  And then there's that dumb look on my face. . . again
!
> I've also got some "marine" bronze.  From a propeller shaft about 2" in
> diameter.  I think that it's supposed to have a bit more lead in it.
>
> royce
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 3/23/2000 11:17:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> > >  it wouldn't seem to be a good idea to have the same
> > >  material for bearing/wearing surfaces.
> > >  Any thoughts out there?
> > I was always under the impression to use dissimilar metals for valve and
> > sliding surfaces.  I have used phos-bronze successfully for cylinders
and CR
> > for the pistons.  But I have also built entirely out of brass too.
Charlie
> > Mynheir builds everything out of stainless, a bit too tough for my
equipment.
> > Bob
> >
>
>
 

Re: another simple Ruby mod

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Agreed.  Laser and water jet are very cool, especially with light weight
parts and cut outs.  My point was only to accuracy.  If you want to cut a 2
inch slab of steel with a tight tolerance and VERY little heat affected
zone, wire is the tool.  Cutting a 1:20 loco frame from 1/8 stainless is
much better suited to laser or water.

For anyone interested, The Engravers Journal, Dec '99 featured an
informative article, "Laser Engraving Buyers Guide."  It is approached from
the perspective of engraving, but the machines also cut.  I haven't checked
whether its available at their site, but try www.engraversjournal.com if
you're curious.

Jon



- Original Message -
From: VR Bass <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: another simple Ruby mod


> > A modern wire EDM will hold tolerance to a couple tenths (of a thou.).
They
> > are remarkable.
>
> They are a pain in the exhaust pipe, however, for cutting things like
> locomotive frames or cabs, which require holes to be cut in the
> middle of the material.  Wire EDM doesn't like to do that.  Water jet
> or laser are much preferable for most of the work we'd want to use
> it for.
>
> regards,
>   -vance-
>
> Vance Bass
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
> Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
>
 

Re: another simple Ruby mod

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

FYI

A modern wire EDM will hold tolerance to a couple tenths (of a thou.).  They
are remarkable.
Jon
- Original Message -
From: Royce Woodbury <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: another simple Ruby mod


> Salty,
>The only CNC machining of steel, for example, was done by a EDM
machine.  I am
> told they will hold a tolerance of .010, or maybe better.  How does this
relate
> to  laser or oxy/acetylene accuracy?
>
> royce
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> >   Several years ago I was working in
> > our parts manufacturing shop and operated an acetylene/oxygen burning
machine
> > that would cut anything in steel up to 6" thick.  The machine when
properly
> > adjusted was very accurate.
> >
>
>
 

Re: OIL BURNER

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Thought I'd weigh in here on safety.  White gas quickly evaportates
explosive fumes (like car gas), unlike kerosene which is closer to diesel in
composition.  This is by no means a scientific opinion, only an observation
from playing with the stuff as a kid (with certain precautions mind you).
Many of the new Coleman products are even designed to burn unleaded gas (a
scary thought).  I'd be more inclined to play with kerosene as an
alternative fuel source.  You might end up with a fire that an extinguisher
can handle, but probably not an explosion.

(Is there a correlation between pyros and live steamers?)

Jon
- Original Message -
From: VR Bass <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: OIL BURNER


> > I'd rather try kerosene first 'cause I have a
> > notion its a safer fuel to use than gasoline.
>
> Casey, very sensible precaution, but I was under the impression
> that white gas is more like kerosene than gasoline.  For example,
> don't those Coleman stoves have the lines running near the flame to
> get the volatility of the fuel up?  It's been years since we used our
> Coleman, and I wasn't looking at it as a boiler heat source at the
> time  I think it's worth looking into, though.  Just call a sporting
> goods store and ask them if that stuff Coleman stoves use is
> gasoline, and how dangerous is it?
>
> -vance-
>
 

Re: Rooney (Ruby/Forney cross breed)

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Vance,

> May I suggest that you might eventually consider replacing the
> couplers, also?  They're about the crudest part of the engine, and
> on that hardwood end beam, between those nicely formed steps,
> they really jump out at me and shout "ugly modeling!".

AGREED!  The beams and couplers will both go eventually.  Detailing starts
after the structural stuff is done and it runs down the track without
binding, scraping, jumping, etc. ;<)

Jon
 

Rooney (Ruby/Forney cross breed)

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Hello all,

For those interested in another Ruby kitbash, I started on a Forney
style build (0-4-4T).   It is definately freelance in style, but follows
the look
of both Baldwin and Hinkley.

 http://home.earthlink.net/~jonbloom/mvc-001s.jpg
 http://home.earthlink.net/~jonbloom/mvc-002s.jpg

The cab is via a Vance Bass laser cut kit (very cool) and running boards
will replace
side tanks.  The rear truck is by NE Narrow Gauge.  It's a white metal
frame, wood bolster and brass bushings for bearing journals.  Not as
spiffy as a scratch build, but I'm realizing that "good enough"  meets
my over-committed existance.

The flange height was too tall for clearance under the deck, so I peeled

off about .080" (diameter). It just clears now, and I might have to
turn some more off the flanges to prevent rubbing, also probably
requiring some off the
tread diameter as the flanges now look more prototypical but they may
jump irrigular track areas.  The axel sets come with wheels pressed on,
and I was able to chuck and turn the flanges without dissassembly.

The old cab floor (2 5/8" long) was used as a template for the new,
extended deck (5 1/4") using .064 nickel bronze (because I have plenty
at hand).  Since the original floor is .050 thick, and fits between the
boiler mount leg and frame, I milled a slot (.015) at the front of the
plate so the boiler leg would slide into position without the frame
binding. (Could have filed the support leg, but that would have required

more dissassembly, YUK.)

I plan to leave a pass-through between the tank and cab, about the width

of the side-front window.  The tank will employ brass sheet, dimpling
the sides to simulate rivits.  Critical comments and/or suggestions are
welcome.  I'm making this up as I go having very little engine building
experience.

Jon


 

Ruby fasteners

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Attention ru-bo-philes...

What the heck size are those little brass hex heads that, for example,
attach the maker's plate to the cross beam, and the cross beam to the
frame?  They measure .019 from edge to edge.  Needle nose pliers just
don't cut it for tightening confidence (too loose?  too tight?  can't
feel what I'm doin'.)

Thanks,
Jon

 

Re: Best first live steamer: Opinions solicited

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

> Don't forget to look at "Cricket" on the used market for $300-$500, maybe
> you can shake Mike O'Rourke's tree for a new one while he still has
> inventory of parts.  They're funky but bulletproof.

The best??? hmm...

The Cricket was my first starter engine and still a favorite.  Last I heard
from Mike O'Rourke, he is considering a move to France.  (Go figure.)   I
doubt he'll build one, but you never know.  Being geared, the Cricket is very
forgiving with grade changes and can live nicely w/o RC.  Since I'm partial to
my first, it gets my vote for a used starter.

The really cool thing about the Sammie is run time and trouble free
operation.  However, run time with the Ruby is its biggest downside, next to
being somehow too chunky in appearance [purely subjective opinion of course].
I bought one to kit-bash with plans for a Forney configuration.  For less than
4 bills, it's a hell of a deal.  Once confident of her operation, a  very
attentive engineer with goodall type valve and bigger gas tank installed can
boost run time dramatically.  Also, some on the list have installed a smaller
jet for increased run time.

Like Richard mentioned, there is always the BAGRS project loco.  This is fun
to build (not to mention cheap - $160), fun to run and always gets comments.
If you like to fiddle, think about the project loco.

As for asthetic considerations, buy an engine YOU enjoy looking at.  Some of
the mentioned engines are more refined, and some more clutsy in appearance.
To each his own.  I think any of the gas fired engines mentioned will provide
years of enjoyment and would fill your needs as a starter nicely.  So bottom
line is, which looks good to your eye, and how much do you want to spend?


 

Re: New Roster

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Now were cookin'!  Hey Dave, you're going to have to quit the day job or give up
sleep.  Be careful of what you wish for ;<)

Wayne E Baldwin wrote:

> I'd be inclined to go a couple steps further.  Make the names hot links (at
> the individuals request) to either eMail addresses and/or personal web sites
> for the individuals.
>
> Regards,
> -Wayne Baldwin
>
> > Would there be any way to have the bio included in the list?
> > that way we
> > could look up a bio when we see a name on a response,
> > otherwise they are lost
> > after the initial post.
> > Keep your steam up!
> > Walt & Lunk
>
 

Re: Ruby exhaust pipe mods

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Mitch,

The Ruby is a gas fired center flue design, therefore requiring no help with
draft.  It is force fed if you will.

Many meth and coal burners have a blower to create draft while sitting, then
steam exhaust is used for draft while under way.  In this case, there may be a
slight change to draft characteristics if the exhaust tube orifice size has
been opened up (with the organ pipe cut) creating a lower velocity chuff (and
conversly increased velocity with a crimped/smaller orifice producing slightly
better draft).  Since overall exhaust volume remains unchanged it probably
won't make a noticable difference either way as long as it all goes up the
stack.  Maybe an expert can weigh in on this.

Jon

> Won't crimping the steam exhaust tube in the stack reduce the pull over the
> firebox?  I mean I'm all for a good plume and a loud chuff, but won't this
> cause a loss in performance?  Or is the draw so great that reducing it
> significantly (I mean making it swirl must significantly reduct the exit
> velocity at the stack exit right?) doesn't reduce the airflow?
 

Re: Diamonhead Update

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Vance is correct.  BLC is out of business (and happens to be 2 blocks
from my work locale).  Mike O'Rourke has produced the Cricket on and off
for some years but looks like he is giving it up for good.

After building the BAGRS project my first "real" loco was a Cricket
(actually an unexpected gift from my wife).  It is a GREAT runner,
capable of pulling like hell, and is basically unaffected by modest
grade changes tight radius curves and even poorly aligned track
conditions.  It is re-guagable in 2 minuets for gauge 0, which is also
nice.  Having just received a Ruby, my vote would be a Cricket if you
can find one.  Last count, there are approximately 120 or so floating
around (mine is #106).  Part of the character of the Cricket is no two
are identical.  Every one was painted, trimed and finished somewhat
differently.  I haven't found a Cricket owner who isn't partial, so the
hunt may take some time and push the price up.  If you are talking a
pure value proposition, the Ruby is a lot of loco for a $350 (or so)
street price.  I have my eye on the Sammie, and there are a LOT of
Bantam fans on this list.  Argyle makes a fine product.  Bottom line,
none of these will disappoint you.

Jon

VR Bass wrote:

> > I am kind of torn between a Cricket and a Ruby
>
> Lloyd,
> I don't think you have that choice anymore, unless you can find a
> Cricket used.  I heard at DH2K that Berkeley Loco is selling off all
> their Cricket components and will not be building them anymore.
>
> Your current entry-level choices (all good): Ruby, Millie, Sammie,
> Bantam (arranged more or less by increasing cost).0
>
> -vance-
 

Re: Not at Diamondhead

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

It's a LONG way to travel for a weekend of fun.  Maybe someday I won't be so
tied to the business.  Sure sounds like fun fun fun.
Jon
norCal

"David M. Cole" wrote:

> Folks:
>
> The list traffic will probably be slow over the next few days. Most
> everyone on the list is at Diamondhead and probably most of them bring only
> one type of toy there.
>
> Unfortunately, personal and business obiligations have kept me at home, so
> I will be able to respond to questions, comments and thoughts.
>
> Best o' luck.
>
> ---
> Dave Cole 
> General Manager, Westline & Mussel Rock Railroad
> 
> Daly City, Calif. USA
> List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
> 
>
>
 

Re: Ruby mods

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

> For the truck under the tank I'm using a NorthEast Narrow Gauge truck that
> looks close, with a minor modification, to the trucks used under the early
> Maine forneys. I'll bring one to DH for show-n-tell.

Mike,

Won't make DH this year :<(
Please forward the manufacture and model of the truck you purchased from NE
Narrow Gauge.  Also, a photo would be great if you can do that too.  I'd love to
see what you are doing.

Jon
 

Ruby mods

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Attention Ruby-philes,

Picked up my new loco from Bing on Friday.  My first thought on firing
was "is this one with a leaky gas filler fitting?"  Not yet anyway.
First lightoff was on blocks, and like others have commented, reverse
seems to require less steam for a given speed.  By fifth run (without
anything in tow) it took five minuets to pressure then ran 14 minuets
around a 10 foot loop of track on the patio.  Is this in line with the
rest of you?  (The railroad is stuck in planning and engineering,
hopefully to break ground this spring.)

My only surprise was the amount of condensate that she pukes clearing on
start.  I went back to the manual (always read in desperation, only when
absolutely necessary) and found a recommended steam space of 30cc.  I
had only pulled off 20cc, so this is likely a contributor.

Thanks to Vance ;<)  I can't possibly leave her the way she sits.  I'm
thinking Forney style and wonder if there is a four wheel truck
available that would sit nicely under the bunker?  I really prefer not
building up a truck if there is an "off the shelf" item available.  Any
suggestions?

Lastly, the bottom is marked Accucraft Mfg. 113.  Is this really a
serial number?  It seems that there would be more than this floating
around by now.  Anybody know more than I?

All in all, this is a lot of engine for the price.  The value factor is
definitely A+.  Looking forward with continued interest on other's mods
to miss Ruby.

Jon
 

Re: It was me!

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Gary
Check your computer date.  Your mail message was date stampped 12/31/69.  Does this 
mean you hope to avoid
y2k for 30 years?

Jon ;<)

Gary Broeder wrote:

> Yes, it was me. However in a 102 fever induced haze I only responded directly to Mr. 
>Lick rather than the
> group.. My appoligies!  GaryB
 

Re: New American R-H loco

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

I must say, Sammie is a tad better looking than Millie.  (No offense
intended to those who like British engines.)  If it runs like I've seen
Millie go (and go and go...40 min.+) that will give Ruby a chase for the
low cost American format price point.  Anybody know when it will be
available, and the guesstimated street price?  I wonder what's next?

Jon

Joe Betsko wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I surfed the Roundhouse site and noticed their new American loco called
> Sammie at http://www.roundhouse-eng.com/sammie.htm
>
> Regards,
> Joe Betsko
>
> http://jsb.pennsy.home.att.net
>
 

Re: DUH?

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Charlie, always the smart a**, ahem, wisenheimer.

Actually I thought he plugged it into an alternating current supply source, stepped
down with a few turns of copper  connected to a 4 diodes wired in series, thus
delivering a unidirectional flow of electrons to a nickel cadnium storage device in
order to supply, upon demand, the necessary electromagnetic rotational energy
transference through a delrin chain to the drive wheels.  Maybe I was confused ;<)

Jon

Charley Lix wrote:

> Fellows ,
> >Even better than the photos was a very cool, real, big engine CHUFF!   Nice loco
> >Richard.  How'd you do that anyway?
>
> I think he put's water in and boils it ... creates pressure which he very
> cleverly ran through reciprocating steam path blocking devices .. I never
> would have thunk it ..
> Amuse toi bien
> Have Fun - Charley
 

Re: DUH?

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Even better than the photos was a very cool, real, big engine CHUFF!   Nice loco
Richard.  How'd you do that anyway?
Jon

Richard Finlayson wrote:

> Can I not get a single rise out of ANYBODY on my awesome Legend American
> 4-4-0 photos? I buried those in there thinking that for certain I'd get a
> rise out of somebody.  :-)  Clark rants on about all the cool locos at the
> steamup and doesn't even mention the beauty!  I can't get any respect... :-)
>
> Ta!
>
> -Richard
> ==
> Richard Finlayson
>
> Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives"
> Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models"
> Check out:  http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
 

Re: How was Kevin's?

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Carlo,

The modified project loco belongs to Steve Shyvers
([EMAIL PROTECTED]).  It is meth fired and runs like a clock.  Every
time I see Steve, he has tweeked it in some way or another to get better
performance.  I don't think he is on this list, so give him a holler.
Jon

Richard Finlayson wrote:

> Jon? Clark? Do you have info on the modified Project?
>
> -Richard
>
> >Richard -
> >
> >Thanks for the images.
> >Question: Can you or anyone else give me more information on the 2nd photo?
> >It looks like a modified BAGRS Project Loco, with the works turned sideways.
> >Is that 1:20 or 1:13.5???
> >Carlo
> >++
> >Richard Finlayson wrote:
> >
> >> Check out some raw photos at:
> >> http://www.steamup.com/temp/kevin111399steamup/kevin111399steamup.html
> >>
> >> I'll leave them up for the day, then pull it all down to write an article
> >> for Steam in the Garden Online.  I certainly had a great time... Kevin has
> >> a great setup for hosting a very sociable steamup.
> >>
> >> Later!
> >>
> >> -Richard
> >> ==
> >> Richard Finlayson
> >>
> >> Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives"
> >> Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models"
> >> Check out:  http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
> >
>
> ==
> Richard Finlayson
>
> Check out: http://www.steamup.com/legend"Legend Steam Locomotives"
> Check out: http://www.steamup.com/trailcreek "Trail Creek Models"
> Check out:  http://www.steamup.com "Steam In The Garden Online"
 

Re: Ruby Modifications (was Re: How was Kevin's?)

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Clark,


>  The hit for me was seeing the new Chaney
> 24 ton shay running.  It was s/n 8.  It ran super.  I'm have a deposit
> down for one.

A beautiful piece of machinery!  How do I get in line, and how much will it set
me back?
Jon
 

Re: New Subscriber

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Mike,

Please send photos to David Cole for posting if you don't have a web site.  I,
also, would like to see all of your kit bashed projects.

Jon


> My particular interest in the hobby is the kitbashing of stock locomotives
> into other (American) engines. I have done a Maine forney (Bridgton&Harrison
> #7) from a RH BILLY kit, a freelance Maine 2-6-0 from a LADY ANNE kit, and a
> MILLIE conversion to a sugar plantation 0-4-2T. Currently I'm working on a
> conversion of the RUBY to a 0-4-4T Maine forney as well as another BILLY
> conversion for Grover Cleveland.
 

Re: How was Kevin's?

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Kevin's Steam-up A Great Day

As always, Kevin O'Conner was the gracious host for a fabulous day of steaming
in Sacramento (CA).  It was a well attended day with little or no slack time on
Kevin's two main lines.  Somehow the weather cooperated again, and we had temps
somewhere in the mid 70's all day.  For someone relatively new to this hobby, a
wealth of knowledge is available for the newbie.  I'm lucky to be in a club
(Pacific Coast Live Steamers) that has so many that are so willing to share
their experiences, good and bad.  Having spent so much time chatting, I fired
up only once and am not the slightest bit disappointed.

On another note, it occurred to me this morning that if the Ruby has done
anything, it has attracted many new people to the hobby (or provided an
economical means of getting into it).  --- This is a chicken or egg quandary.
---  A am amazed by the number of "newbie-Ruby" comments on this list alone.
This is GREAT!  More enthusiasts means more and better availability of
locomotives and accessories.

Case in point.  If you haven't already, subscribe to Steam in the Garden
magazine.  It's a wonderful source of information and a fun read.  [I have no
affiliation and have never even met the publisher.]  My dream would be that it
someday becomes a monthly publication (currently bi-monthly) and maybe even in
full living color.  Bottom line, this takes eyeballs to create the necessary
advertising revenue that enables more staff and a bigger printing budget, etc.
Right now, there are simply not enough eyeballs interested in gauge one live
steam to create the add revenue necessary to go the next level.  So, GO SPREAD
THE WORD and attract more newbies.  It's good for us all.

Jon Bloom
Orinda, CA

"David M. Cole" wrote:

> A client's sudden urge for some obscure information required me to work and
> prevented me from driving up to Sacramento yesterday -- how was the event
> at Kevin O'Connor's?
>
> I wanted to take my Ruby to him to show him a leak in the gas tank I've
> found -- it seems to be leaking around the filler-valve. I tightened the
> valve a little bit, but the leak persists. I'm afraid I've got to take the
> valve out and replace the o-ring. :-( ...
>
> ---
> Dave Cole
> Daly City, Calif. USA
> List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
> 
>
>
 

Re: Nor Cal Live Steamers...

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Jeff - THere are a whole bunch of G1 live steamers in the greater Bay Area.
I'm in the East Bay (Contra Costa County).  Check out the schedule for Pacific
Coast Live Steam, a link can be found at SitG's web site.  Most of the steamups
are in "central" Cal  ;<)
(Sacto to SF for those living really north).
Jon Bloom

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Hey I live in Central/Northern California...Santa Cruz County to be exact,
> where are all the Nor Cal Steamers?  I know where Richard is... and Gary
> Broeder...
> Just got my Roundhouse Billy this week and this weekend will be putting R/C
> in my Ruby.
> OH what fun!
>
> Jeff Badger
> Big Trees Flume & Lumber Co.
 

bio

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Hello all,

Now that my "reply" email problem is resolved, here's another bio (a
little long winded albeit).

Richard's bio inspired me to contribute - thanks.  I had kind-of taken
for granted
the evolution of trains to G1 live steam.

As far back as I can remember, dad set up the pre-war Lionel under the
Christmas
tree.  At somewhere around 7 or 8 I got my first Lionel train set and
ran the wheels
off of it.  (My six year old now has the honor).  It was generally a
winter-time,
rainy day kind of a thing.  Play with it for three months until it gets
REAL boring,
put it away for months, then rediscover the fun again a year later.

Growing up with a train-crazy dad, the family did live steam rides
whenever
possible.  Whether at theme parks or on "club/historical" railroads
throughout the
west.  I always enjoyed the sounds and smells of live steam.

Sometime around 18-19 I became very intrigued by HO (modeling and
building), reading
and planning voraciously.  With attention to school, a girlfriend,
skiing and other
youthful pursuits and indiscretions (plus a lack of funds), it never
resulted in anything more than reams
of paper: plans, copied magazine pages and the like.  About this same
time dad got into
LGB.  When home from college over Christmas, we played trains on the
living room
floor.  What fun!  Twenty years of getting on the floor and playing toy
trains with
dad.  The bigger train thing was pretty cool.

Over a decade passed with little training.  Marriage, career and home
improvements
pretty much consumed my time and interest.  Then three years ago, Dad
(Grandpa) gave
then 3 year old Patrick an LGB starter set for Christmas.  I'm not sure
who had more
fun, Patrick or me.  This rekindled the bigger train thing and was
followed by more
rolling stock and a Bachman Shay with plans for a garden railroad under
way.

About 2 years ago, I got bit REAL bad by gauge 1 live steam at the BAGRS
convention
in San Jose, CA.  The BAGRS live steam group set up a portable loop and
ran their
fire breathing, smoke belching, steam hissing little toys [no disrespect
intended] under their own power.
Very cool!  I was mesmerized by an Aster 90 ton, three truck Shay with
all its tiny
little rods and gears whirring and spinning like the innards of a swiss
clock.
Truly amazing.

Well, that was it.  A month later I attended a local steamup with a
bunch of great
guys that further piqued my interest.  I left that day hell-bent on
getting into
this live steam thing.  Within a couple of months I had assembled the
BAGRS
(McDavid/Martin design) project loco; built around a Midwest vertical
boiler,
oscillating cylinder kit.  Fired by the ultra low tech fuel Sterno, it
is a blast to
run and never fails to get comments and questions.

This engine was followed by a Berkeley Loco Works Cricket (#106) as a
Christmas
present from my bride.  (Check this out:  no hints, no haggling, no
shopping on my
partA complete and total surprise!)  I love my Cricket (and my
bride)!  It will
pull like a mad dog, isn't affected by grades, runs on the tightest of
radii, and is
not the slightest bit finicky.

The backyard railroad design is under way and construction will
hopefully start this
fall (after finishing a family room remodel).  Patrick and I (now six)
try to attend
the PCLS/BAGRS hosted steamups each month around northern Cal and Nevada
to run our
trains.  I'm in the process of scratch building a 1:20, Class A,
t-boiler Climax
around the Graham twin vertical and a Manison gear drive.  The boiler is
almost
together after taking a year to this point.  It is hard to find time and
will likely
end up a 3-5 year project.  In the mean time I have an Argyle
Philadelphia on order
and look forward to "real" valve gear.

As far as dreams go, retiring on 100 acres in the Napa Valley with
cabernet grapes
and a 15" gauge loco would be my ultimate spread.  Even if I eventually
get into the
larger locos, there will always be a G1 railroad in my backyard living
space as the
social aspect is half the fun.  Dad still plays with his Lionel and LGB
out-of-control train collection and Patrick talks about nothing else
(aside from
Pokeman, what's with that anyway!?)

Sociologists would say it's entirely environmental conditioning.  I,
however,
believe its a genetic anomaly.  I hope Patrick is able to spawn another
three
generations of operating live steam enthusiasm.  It would be a shame to
see it
relegated to static museum displays, or worse, computer kiosks.

happy steaming ;<)
Jon


 

Re: The great void - Model Boiler Books

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Re: boiler design

At the risk of sounding like a smart-a**, why reinvent the wheel?  Unless you
want to go through the theroretical calculations as a learning exercise (which
there is nothing wrong with) copy the work of someone who has already done the
theory and a few prototype boilers as well.  Ready available copper tubing has
more strength than necessary for G1 boilers.  Most of the smaller engines have
simple center flue designs where dimensions can be easily obtained with a rule
at your local steamup.  Talk to experienced scratch builders and get some
practical wisdom. If you plan on firing with gas, you eliminate the draft
issue.  Then the burner design will probably be your biggest variable and
require the most fiddling with.  To that end, there is a boatload of burner
experience out there for the asking.  Post a specific question here or at SitG
and you'll have the experts providing plenty of suggestions.

Jon


 

Re: And the House Burned to the Ground

[Jonathan E. Bloom]

Vance wrote:

>   You do something stupid with a hot
> machine, and you'll get hurt.

Amen.  Thanks and well said.