Re: die size for 1/16 rod
Matthias, the Machinist book has tables. Tap and die 1-64 or 1-72 is a much closer fit. A 2-56 is easier to find, but it might be a little loose. If losseness works for your need, try 2-56. Hobby stores and mail order are 2 places I use to get these. Numbered pilot drill bits give you a better fit. Dick Griffith, New Britain, CT On Thu, 19 Aug 2004 22:55:45 -0700 (PDT) Matthias Warmbold [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi, I got a 1/16 brass rod (KS brand) on which I would like to put a thread. Neither the shop nor KS has provided me with information on which die is suitable for this size. I spent some time surfing the net and assume that a 00-80 die would fit. To make the female thread, I assume that I have to use a 3/64 drill bit. Can anyone from this list confirm whether my assumptions are correct? KS sells a 00-80 tap and die which no local dealer has on stock. Are they of good quality or should I order it from somewhere else? Are there any tables on the Internet where one could look up the die size for any given rod? Matthias The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
Re: G1 Loco Drawings
Harry, thanks for your input! I tried the web site but got no hit. I respelled modeling but still no hit. Is the site not ready yet, or is there still an error in the address? Dick Griffith On Sat, 26 Jul 2003 07:53:43 -0500 Harry Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: At 09:37 PM 7/25/03 -0400, you wrote: At 06:32 PM 25/07/03 +0100, Art Walker wrote: The LBSC of our times in my opinion. The clarity of the drawings instructions is just great. I don't know about that, Sir Arthur! I have the drawings and words for building his coal fired 'O' scale Schools-look-alike, 'Bat'. I've found half a dozen conflicting dimensions between the written portion and the drawings in looking them over. Peter, A few people know I am not particularly a fan of LBSC. One reason is that in the face of evidence in many instances his details did not and could not have worked, his attitude remained one of irreproachable infallibility. His trademark nuff sed quote was part evidnce of that However what is written in his defense is that he made the building of a miniature live steam locomotive, capable of doing work, which had previously been the domain of the wealthy and leisurely or highly skilled and well equipped, accessible and unintimidating to the average working stiff who had only basic tools. I interpreted Art's comment to mean that Kozo, like LBSC, has shown another generation of people, who otherwise might not have had the confidence to attempt to build a live steam locomotive, that it can be done by the average person with limited resources, space, etc. Regardless of the mistakes in his designs (and ALL designs/drawings have them except one that I know) the principle complaint must IMHO be lodged against the publishers and sellers of the drawings and holders of the copyrights (P. Marshall/MAP/Argus Press, the publishers of Model Engr and AJReevesLtd, principle seller, all in the UK) for after years of being advised of mistakes in their drawings (of several designers, not just LBSC) doing absolutely nothing about it. Many fatal (ie, ruined part) errors remain in drawings after years of complaints. My own mentor began his loco-building career with a Mabel, LBSC's version of an LNER Precedent class (our Aster JUMBO) in 3-1/2 gauge. He was dismayed to discover that accumulated drawing errors cause him to have to discard his almost completed main frames. That design is 50 years old but I'll bet if you order the drawings from ME or Reeves today those errors are still there untouched. Updates were often given later - sometimes VERY much later- they were not collated or indexed with the original, so that does make it difficult for later builders. Jim Gregg. After a lengthy discussion (aka, rant) by members of the Model Engineering List [EMAIL PROTECTED] member Alan Stepney (UK) began a page on his web site dedicated to the collection of known errors in UK design drawings. Regards, Harry The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
Re: Materials compatibility
Graham is correct about cast iron, it bears very well with itself and to every other metal, including aluminum. Also in this category are nichel iron and drill rod (tool steel). In a steam chest that has lubrication, cast iron should not have any rust problems. Brass on brass and brass on bronze are normally bad wear surfaces, but in the enclosed area of the steam chest with lubrication, they will perform well, as confirmed by those with experience in these emails. These combinations however should not be used in areas exposed to dust and grit. For a complete list of combinations, consult Machinery's Handbook, Industrial Press. I went to my copy of Joseph F. Nelson's So You Want to Build A Live Steam Locomotive for a condensed list, for which he consulted Machinery's Handbook, Marine Engineer's Handbook, Tool Engineer's Handbook and Ducommun Metals Hardware. Hope this helps. If anyone doesn't have access to Machinery' Handbook or to Mr. Nelson's book, I would be glad to look up information for you. Dick Griffith, New Britain, CT On Thu, 27 Mar 2003 19:21:04 -0500 graham sprague [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Gail. It is quite OK to use cast iron with cast iron ;;it is the only material to my knowledge that is compatible with itself . For instance you can have CI cylinders / CI pistons and CI rings ( try that with Aluminum ) ? NO ECHO . - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 3:47 PM Subject: Re: Materials compatibility Royce However, where does one get .03 cast iron? I have seen suppliers list cast iron available as continuous cast bars, but nothing of that thinness. I used continuous cast bar stock. To cut a false port face, I milled the port facing complete with ports, mounting holes and to outside dimensions with all features about 1/16 inch deep on the end of a short section of the bar stock. Then I parted it off in the lathe to 50 or 60 thousands thick. Face off a stub of scrap and mount the machined port face to it. I use sealing wax. It is still available at many stationary shops and on the internet. Don't use the glue stick types of wax as they are too soft. This is a hard brittle wax if you have never seen it. Heat the stub arbor so the wax will melt on it then press the port face to it and let it cool. Then face it off to the desired thickness on the lathe. Heat the stub to remove the part. Use light cuts. The old timers used to solder the part to the stub arbor and then use the tinned face on the part to solder it to the original port side of the cylinder. I never did that. In more modern times others have used Cyanoacylate glue (crazy glue) to mount the parts. It breaks down at about 350 Degree F to remove the part or there are solvents for it. I am not pushing the iron to iron as other suggestions have been good, but I thought you ( and others) might want to know how it is done if you should want to try it. Gail
Re: Frustration with order faxed to Brandbright
Lieber Vance, wenn Sie schrieben auf Deutsch, ist es wichtig, klar zu sein. Was bedeutet Kuppelösen? Ich habe gern fuer die Deutsche Sprache, Geschichte und Kultur. Auch fuer Nederlander. Wo stammen Sie aus, wenn ich fragen darf? Meine Ehefrau und ich wohnen in New Britain, CT. Sie ist hier geboren, und ich in der nahe Buffalo, NY. Sie kocht sehr gut, ich bin meistens Holzwerker, manchmal Metalwerker for Dampflokomotiven. Bis spaeter.Richard On Sun, 01 Dec 2002 14:28:04 -0700 VR Bass [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Matthias, Schau mal nach http://www.reppingen.de/liefer_prog/zuruest/ber_frame.htm. Ralf Reppingen hat LGB-kompatibele Kuppelösen aus Metall, und antwortet Deinen e-mail sofort. best regards, -Vance- Vance Bass FHPB Railroad Supply Co. 6933 Cherry Hills Loop NE Albuquerque, NM 87111 USA http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass/fhpb/
Re: Hospital time!
Very best wishes and a speedy recovery! Dick Griffith in New Britain, CT On Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:24:27 -0400 Keith Taylor [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I will be going into the hospital for some surgery on Friday morning. For those who might need my assisitance as IBLS secretary, my wife, Ginny, will be reading my e-mails and will get any important messages to me, and she will type up any replies needed. getting out membership cards and registrations may take a little extra time, so please be patient. All IBLS business will be handled as soon as I'm able. I don't expect poor Ginny to do all the household chores, take care of me and be the IBLS secretary as well! Thanks for your patience! Keith Taylor Secretary, East Coast USA International Brotherhood of Live Steamers. GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
Re: Thin refractory material
Royce, I read somewhere that regular toothpaste might protect the area. Another suggestion is to put a heat sink in the area to be protected. Dick G New Britain, CT On Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:35:55 -0700 Royce Woodbury [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi listers. I need some thin refractory material to protect one part while silver soldering another in close proximity. Anybody know of a source of 1/32 to 1/16 thick heat shielding material ? I looked in my wife's hair dryer and there is a metal shield between the elements and plastic exterior, but then there is a blower that carries the hot air away. I only need a couple of square inches of the stuff and would be happy to buy some if I knew where. (I checked at Air Liquide up the street (they sell bottled gases and silversoldering supplies)and the thinnest stuff they had was 1/8 - too thick). Any suggestions ? royce in SB GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
Re: List Down?
Ok in CT too. This past winter (sic) was our warmest and dryest on record. The PVLS club in Southwick MA has several meets planned this season. If anyone plans to be in New England this year, let me know and I'll send the schedule. They run engines in 1.5, 1 and .75 scale. Dick Griffith, New Britain On Wed, 10 Apr 2002 17:48:55 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Alive and well in Texas! Jim Crabb Seabrook GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
Re: Mogul or Ten Wheeler Frame plans
Royce, unfortunately, not that I know of. Perhaps you could find a copy of a Modeltec magazine (I gave all of mine to the local high school shop teacher) and then look into the back issues. Perhaps a recent issue of Live Steam might advertise them. South Park Productions, 1430 Trelane, St. Louis, MO 63126 had offered several books and plans, such as Kozo's work. They had offered free Baldwin plans with any order. You might see if they have anything, or if they are still around. On Mon, 25 Feb 2002 06:53:40 -0800 Royce Woodbury [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Richard S Griffith wrote: and if I remember correctly, it was based on an existing engine reposing in Colorado. Dick. You don't happen to know if pictures of said loco are available on the web ? royce GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
Re: Mogul or Ten Wheeler Frame plans
CWolcott, you could try to get the series of complete 10 wheeler plans that Modeltec Magazine ran during the 1980's. It was for 1.5 scale, very detailed, and if I remember correctly, it was based on an existing engine reposing in Colorado. You could also try The California State RR Museum in Sacramento, CA and the Pennsylvania RR Museum in Lancaster PA, both full of artifacts and willing to offer assistance. Also check the Live Steam Magazine for plans for the larger scales. Good luck! Dick Griffith, Connecticut On Sun, 24 Feb 2002 09:55:49 -0600 CWolcott [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Does anyone know where I could find a drawing of either a 4-6-0 or 2-6-0 narrow gauge loco frame? (Measured would be nice, free would be nicer still) GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
Re: Practical reading for the novice
So you want to build a live steam locomotive is very good for large scale engines. Written by Joseph Foster Nelson, 1974, Wildwood Publications, Box 286, Cadilac, Michigan 49601. Magnificent work by him and others. Beautifully written, clear, excellent illustrations and drawings of many parts. I don't loan this one, but if anyone visits me, I'd let you read it. Harry is right, though, it is not the best source of info for Gauge One. A better book is 'Building the Raritan, William H. Morewood, 1977, Wildwood Publications. This provides every dimension for a .75 to the foot scale, 2-4-0 coal fired live steamer for 3.5 gauge track. Since I am not a design engineer, or even a gifted enthusiast, I need complete blue prints in the scale I need. Dick Griffith On Thu, 21 Feb 2002 15:42:58 -0600 Harry Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: At 12:53 PM 2/21/02 -0800, you wrote: I also liked Greenly's model steam locomotives ... though it is dated, there are some good illustrations in it. I recommend this book highly for any steam library. Even though it is somewhat dated, when you pursue dated technology you pursue dated texts, and although it's pointed toward the larger scales it's a superb overview of live steam design and construction in general. Superbly illustrated, at least the newer additions are. Some guy in Texas bought out a book distributor and was selling these on the www for $10 ea ppd and couldn't give them away (but I bought two). Then he raised the price to $20-25 and thye sold like hotcakes. Go figure. understand that the book so you want to build a live steam locomotive is a good one too; i haven't read it. IMHO this is a good coffee table book but it is not the best technical or design resource. The reason is that Mr. Nelson primarily built models of Pennsylvania locomotives in 1 scale (to a very high standard of mechanical faithfulness to the prototypes to his everlasting credit) so his book is mostly written and illustrated with drawings and photos that portray Pennsy practice which was in many instances not typical of railroad practice elsewhere and certainly not typical of US large scale live steam practice. It's an interesting read but much of what is contained in the way of techinical information is unusuable by the average live steamer. This is exaggerated even more by the technological differences between small scale and large scale design. But Kozo is good, and I'd go for the Martin Evans books, and in a last ditch act of desperation, LBSC. Regards, Harry GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
Re: Cleaning coal burner pipes
Good evening Bob and everyone else. I had to write to ask how to get in touch with Small Parts, Inc. I had traded with them about 20 years ago but cannot find my old catalog. Perhaps there's a website. My name is Dick Griffith, of Connecticut. Machining results include a small launch steam engine .50 bore, a partially completed Stuart #10 vertical, and a nearly completed 1.5 scale CliShay that will run on 7.25 gauge track and uses a 2 cylinder launch engine, 1.25 bore. The engine in done sans rings. The boiler shell, flue sheets and flues were made by a professional, Don Marshall, in VT about 18 years ago. I need to finish it. 1.5 scale is too big, too heavy and requires specialized trailers or motor trucks but they do pull a lot of weight. I have about 50 more hours of work to complete the piping, smoke stack and boiler shroud, piston rings, and miscellany such as head light etc. My son is anxious to drive it, but will not help finish it. Oh, well. It occurs to me that Gauge I, or .75 scale is the way to go. I have made many HO scale rolling stock and engines, so the smaller scales should be no problem. The smaller scale should be fun. Well, that's enough for now. Please drop me a line when you have a moment. Dick On Tue, 19 Feb 2002 23:11:33 EST [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Opening up this subject again. I just got my most recent order frm Small Parts Inc. (It's really dangerous having an open account!). Anyway, I included one of the bristle brushes that they carry. I got a .25 size because the coal fired boiler that I am building will have that size flues. It has a nylon bristle and is six inches long, cost was $2.50, I think. The bristles are pretty stiff and should be able to handle cleaning with no danger what so ever to the flue tubes. I think that I would also consider having a brass one around too, just for the stubborn stuff. Bob Starr GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
Re: list problems?
Lieber Paul, Ich benutze juno.com, keine Probleme sondern etwas langsam, aber es ist frei! Mit Breitspurigen Gruessen! Dick Griffith aus den USA On Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:13:54 +0100 [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Paul Golisch) writes: Hm get a free email adress and use an an other emailprog. this worked for me wenn a still had an aol acount Mit Schmalspurigen Grüssen Paul Golisch - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2002 6:25 PM Subject: list problems? Hi, Some time ago list members were having problems when switching to AOL v.6. The Depot is considering upgrading to AOL v7.0. Have any list members made the switch, and did you experience any difficulties i.e. compatibility with [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hey, this concerns live steam INFORMATION ACCESSIBILITY Keep your steam up! Mr. Lunkenheimer's Associate GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
