Hello All,
I was going to stay out of this conversation, but I second Harry's comments.
Bear with me.
In a different time, I was a gunsmith. In days of old, "Blueing" was actually
"Browning", and was accomplished by promoting rust to the exterior finish of a
firearm and then steaming the finish, etc., etc.. On the right firearm (or
small cannon) it's a really beautiful finish.
When my mentor in the field taught me the process of "Browning", he used
aerosol type WD-40 to spray the surface. After a short period of time- sometimes
within a day or so- rust would start appearing. He said that without the WD-40,
the process was prolonged and the rust coverage would not be nearly as uniform.
I never doubted him, and never once deviated from the practice.
At my job as a gunsmith, I regularly encountered firearms who's owners had
used WD-40 on them for *misguided* lubrication obtained from the back of the
can, or sometimes in attempt of a quick cleaning. Everything had a gummy,
tacky, varnish on it that was very difficult to remove.
In my opinion, avoid WD-40 period. I've personally never seen a real use for
it. A perfect example of good marketing.
If you need a lubricant, use a real lubricant. If you need a cleaner, use a
real cleaner. The CRC products are well engineered, as is the STIHL Penetrating
Oil. I get the STIHL product from my local chainsaw shop.
Later,
Trent
Quoting Harry Wade <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> At 01:36 PM 2/8/05 -0800, you wrote:
> >Does anybody out there know what's in WD-40 ? - royce
>
> Royce,
> I used to . . . but it wasn't important enough to remember for
> very long. Whatever it is its main quality, and what it was orginally
> developed for, is "water displacement, thus "WD." It has virtually no
> lubricating qualities and very little protective qualities although it
> certainly does displace moisture. Unless something's been rained on I
> don't know why anybody bothers to buy the stuff.
> I have found what is a pretty good (and cheap) short-term
> lubricant/preservative. It's Pep Boys "Super Lubricant." The best general
> service penetrating preservative for the workshop I've found is CRC "3-36"
> (#03005).
>
> Regards,
> Harry
>
>
-1wners had
used WD-40 on them for *misguided* lubrication obtained from the back of the
can, or sometimes in attempt of a quick cleaning. Everything had a gummy,
tacky, varnish on it that was very difficult to remove.
In my opinion, avoid WD-40 period. I've personally never seen a real use for
it. A perfect example of good marketing.
If you need a lubricant, use a real lubricant. If you need a cleaner, use a
real cleaner. The CRC products are well engineered, as is the STIHL Penetrating
Oil. I get the STIHL product from my local chainsaw shop.
Later,
Trent
Quoting Harry Wade <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> At 01:36 PM 2/8/05 -0800, you wrote:
> >Does anybody out there know what's in WD-40 ? - royce
>
> Royce,
> I used to . . . but it wasn't important enough to remember for
> very long. Whatever it is its main quality, and what it was orginally
> developed for, is "water displacement, thus "WD." It has virtually no
> lubricating qualities and very little protective qualities although it
> certainly does displace moisture. Unless something's been rained on I
> don't know why anybody bothers to buy the stuff.
> I have found what is a pretty good (and cheap) short-term
> lubricant/preservative. It's Pep Boys "Super Lubricant." The best general
> service penetrating preservative for the workshop I've found is CRC "3-36"
> (#03005).
>
> Regards,
> Harry
>
>
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