Re: Aster Alisan Shay learning curve
I have an Aster Schools alcohol fired engine. It ran fine indoors or during the summer, but I had trouble during cooler/cold running. I also tried the aluminum foil route and was surprised how much better the engine ran -read that to mean make steam-. I ended up bending a thin brass baffle to put over the bottom of the fire box. I drilled holes approximately 50% larger than the wick cups. If the exhaust starts to smell too bad, open up the holes slightly larger. Another suggestion: If it is not too hard, look into the smoke box. Having a totally sealed smoke box is very important. Even a seemingly small pin hole air leak can have major consequences. If needed, get some silicone caulk and block any airleak. This might be needed on the smoke box door also. Just use bathroom caulk, it works fine. Be careful applying the caulk. You can make a mess in no time flat! Use a toothpick or similar item to spread the caulk. I am not familiar with the Aster shay, but check the entire fire route for air leaks. Because of the smokebox draft, a leak will not manifest itself with flames shooting out, but will allow cold air to enter in. As you have found, a alcohol fired engine is usually running on the ragged edge of having enough steam. An engine with a water pump, you must have a higher fire than normally would be required without one (obviously). I have an Aster Jumbo with a very small boiler and (as Aster puts it) an efficient water pump (actually, about 50% over sized). I needed a fierce fire to handle the cold water entering such a small boiler. As a result, I probably get more blowing off of the safety valve than most engines, but without messing with the wicks, I can run the engine in cold weather with no problems. As you are realizing, alcohol firing requires you to think about some of the same things that real locomotive firemen and engineers had to think about. Dan Fuller Carrollton, Texas
Aster Alisan Shay learning curve
Hi Zbigniew, 1) High Prices: This Alisan Shay was new in box kit that Lorenz Schug assembled and ran under air before selling for $2,400.00. That is a pretty fair price for a great piece of all metal handmade clockwork. This is a hobby, so money comes from recreation savings not living expenses. It took me over twenty years after first seeing a picture of this shay to have the extra money. 2) Opinions: My opinion is that this shay is a great running loco, with some learning curves which I expect for any loco. This shay runs very smoothly. The valve and crankshaft are a joy to watch in motion. 3) Alcohol firing: Learning curve does exist for alcohol firing. Heck, butane firing for three locos I have repaired and run each required unique routines to get them to light and/or to have adequate heat output. Alcohol has advantages of providing heat in any weather other than high wind conditions. Butane requires heating the butane tank to get adequate pressure to keep a fire hot enough in cold weather. Pure ethanol burns clean and has almost no eye irritants. If you burn mixed fuel with methanol, expect some eye irritation if indoors or directly inhaling fumes. Yesterday, I picked up the shay to allow Ted's Porter to steam past, when the Alisan ran low on water and fuel. While absent mindedly holding the loco with one hand by the cab roof I perceived warm, then hot hand sensations. A glance told me I had allowed the loco to tip forward allowing alcohol to overflow the wick cups and flame up toasting my hand. I set the loco on the cedar trestle and the flames stopped as soon as I placed the blower fan in the stack. This too is part of the learning curve. I am happy to report no Bar-B-Q sauce was needed for my hand nor did I drop the loco. (For those who are now snickering or out right laughing their hinny off, I believe in reporting failures too. Helps others to not be surprised when they do something dumb or perhaps avoid repeating the same idiotic inattentive actions. Most important, this sort of report makes others feel superior and gain a bit of humor for the day.) 4) Slow running: This Alisan Shay can run slowly when pressure is at 3-4 Bar or 30-40 psi and the throttle valve is cracked open about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. If you want more cylinder pop sound then move the throttle back toward the center or off position. This retards valve timing and the back pressure provides more resistance (slower speed) and more distinct sound. My current problem is running under slow speed on my layout stalls the loco if too slow since I have grades. Setting the speed at a nice sedate speed enables the loco to climb the grade slowing down to almost a crawl. However, after about three to four laps (180' laps) steam pressure drops to 2 Bar or even less. Therefore, I still need to figure out how to improve heating by wick adjustment and/or partially shielding the burner area to reduce air cooling. An article byspecifies that this shay may benefit from reducing the air flow to help prevent heat loss under steam. Speed is not set by regulating fuel. On level track I can set the shay to trundle along at a speed slow enough to watch the valves move and track the crankshaft revolutions easily. I will let everyone know how experiments with various wick adjustments and materials work as well as and burner shielding efforts. I plan to simply roll up tin foil and cram it beside the burners to see if this simple restriction method improves heating. Gary - Steamed up and frequently running trains over Terror Trestle in Eugene, Oregon http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthor Hi Gary, I am following with interest your experiences with he Alishan Shay. I wanted to buy one for years but was scared by 1) high prices 2) people's opinions about this engine 3) alcohol firing system. Now that you are running the engine for hours I would be happy to hear your opinions about its *slow* speed capability and the ease or difficulty of alcohol firing... It is probably easier to refill for long runs than gas. Best regards, Zbigniew
