This is one of those things that could start a pretty good thread. I think
we did this not to long ago. 2 months?
In any case,I've never had much luck with dry transfers.I've gotten great
results on 9 letters of a 10 letter word and 1 letter lifts or moves or
totally P--- me off. Making decals has gone much better for me. Once you get
a technique down for making them , you can make them quickly and even if you
mess one up putting it on, doing it over again is easy and quick. Also you
can make some pretty fancy decals with the soft ware available now. You can
buy 2 basic kinds of decal paper now. The one kind will work on ink jet
printers and the other on a special printer made by Alps. The paper is
cheaper for the Alps and you can make white and other metallic colors using
the Alps you can't do on a standard ink jet. The problem is you're buying a
special printer and the low price Alps are no longer available new. The Alps
uses special ribbons by the way. By the way,Vance has done a lot of this
kind of work and is good at it. He may have some additional insight into
this subject.
Phil.P. Reading,Pa.
> Hey guys:
>
> I'm planning on doing some lettering for engines and rolling stock. I've
> seen dry transfer work that looked picture perfect and I have a miniscule
> working knowledge of decals. I wanted to get some feedback from
experienced
> folks on the pros and cons of each type of application. I plan to apply
to
> distressed, painted wood in some applications, ribbed painted wood (box
> cars) ribbed painted plastic, and smooth, painted brass.
>
> Thank you in advance for your advice.
>
> Jim Curry
>
>
>
>
