Re: Accucraft C-16 notes

2001-09-13 Thread Bob Wescott

Vance,

You wrote:
-- the safety is completely inaccessible as far as I can tell!  This is not 
a good thing, since you can't check your safety when you're raising steam.  
I was alarmed to see that mine finally blew at 70
psig, though the manual says it's set for 55 psi and that I should keep my 
hands off it.  Well, I have to, but I don't like it.  I'm a bit concerned 
by a loco with a safety that can't be tested and may be set 20% off 
target, and a clock that may be 20% off.


My steam dome was very tight, screwed off like the sand dome. I have a 
3x5x1/8 sheet of Viton that I used to get a no mar grip. The pop is down in 
a sockit, could not get to it to adjust. The cap comes off the pop, but will 
need a 'tool' to remove to adjust. BTW, mine blew at 65 psig.





  This is NOT an optional tool -- you MUST have one or you can't get any 
oil into the @!#% tiny filler tube.  Steam oil is so thick that the first 
drop hits the neck and the surface tension keeps it there longer than the 
half-life of Strontium 90.
Meanwhile, the little syringe they give you to suck water out of the 
 lubricator is totally useless, since you can only get it about 2mm into 
the neck.



   This syringe is for filling only, put it into the tank and wipe off after 
filling. I have a 'LUER-LOCK' needle that I put on it to suck out the water. 
It's about 1/16. The tank holds about 20cc of oil.






Bob mentioned a loose exhaust tube.  Mine was loose, too, but I was able 
to tighten it from the top of the smokebox, since the top is flattened.  I 
would like to hear your reaction to the chuff with and without the 
resonator tube.  The smokebox arrangement on this engine seems very 
effective, acoustically, so I think it possible that a secondary tube 
might actually diminish the chuff.  Try it both ways, and let us know, 
please.



This smokebox is fully insulated, even the door. My tube is installed 
into the bottom as best I could. This maybe causing the burner
roughness, might need to enlarge the birds mouth for more flow. when the 
door is open it's not so bad. Last night after the sunset I was able to make 
the flame shoot out the door three inches. Must be careful not to set the 
gas too high. When the replacement tube arrives I will do some more testing.





Another thing to look out for is the sander pipes.  One of mine was so 
 long that I think it must have been dragging the track.  I was blaming 
 the derailments at track joints (esp. when backing) on the hasty 
 tracklaying and the lack of leading wheels in reverse, but it didn't 
 make sense to me that the lead truck would have much effect, since it 
 just swings loose on its pivot.  After putting it up on blocks again, I 
noticed the absurdly long sander pipe, and cut it off.  Haven't tried 
running it again on the track to see if that cleared up the derailment 
problem, but it would certainly have caused trouble at some point.

It would be a good thing to devise a centering mechanism for the lead 
 truck so that it actually did some leading, rather than simply dangling 
in the breeze.



   My lead truck was picking one frog, going to go over that one with a 
Dremmel. A stiffer spring pressing the truck down might also help. It will 
be Sunday before I get to run next. Will start out on blocks this time.





Since I'm running on my workbench, I put a piece of thin cotton cloth over 
the stack to keep the oil from getting all over my other projects.  This 
produced a much more visible steam plume, even through the cloth!  I am 
going to experiment some with a turbulator for the spark arrestor in an 
effort to replicate this effect.



While running I stopped her several times and restarted. When she 
started the first few chuff's were very pronounced and the steam was blown 
three feet in the air. VERY COOL!!!


Bob Wescott

_
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Accucraft C-16 notes

2001-09-12 Thread VR Bass

Bob,

Thanks for the notes about the 268 version of the live steam C-16.  I was 
interested to read that this one has a removable steam dome for access to the 
safety valve.  The No. 42 does not -- the safety is completely inaccessible as 
far as I can tell!  This is not a good thing, since you can't check your safety 
when you're raising steam.  I was alarmed to see that mine finally blew at 70 
psig, though the manual says it's set for 55 psi and that I should keep my 
hands off it.  Well, I have to, but I don't like it.  I'm a bit concerned by a loco 
with a safety that can't be tested and may be set 20% off target, and a clock 
that may be 20% off.

I put almost another hour on mine tonight, both on blocks and on track hastily 
laid on the garage floor.  Herewith, some notes from tonight's session:

I notice that the owner's manual lists an accessory called an oil pump.  This 
is NOT an optional tool -- you MUST have one or you can't get any oil into the 
@!#% tiny filler tube.  Steam oil is so thick that the first drop hits the neck and 
the surface tension keeps it there longer than the half-life of Strontium 90.  
Meanwhile, the little syringe they give you to suck water out of the lubricator is 
totally useless, since you can only get it about 2mm into the neck.  On the 
Ruby, the water-sucking situation was even worse, so I took some 3/32 
copper tubing I had in the non-ferrous and made a 3-inch-long extension for 
the syringe.  I drilled the tip 3/32 and glued in the tubing and made a great 
sucker which also works very nicely as an oil pump for filling the C-16' tank.

Bob mentioned a loose exhaust tube.  Mine was loose, too, but I was able to 
tighten it from the top of the smokebox, since the top is flattened.  I would like 
to hear your reaction to the chuff with and without the resonator tube.  The 
smokebox arrangement on this engine seems very effective, acoustically, so I 
think it possible that a secondary tube might actually diminish the chuff.  Try it 
both ways, and let us know, please.

On that topic, watch the engine carefully the first few times you run 
(preferably on blocks).  I found several things that started off loose or became 
loose after some running and heat/cool cycling, including the valve chest and 
cylinder covers and the body of the blowdown valve, which seeped onto the 
cab floor.

Another thing to look out for is the sander pipes.  One of mine was so long 
that I think it must have been dragging the track.  I was blaming the 
derailments at track joints (esp. when backing) on the hasty tracklaying and 
the lack of leading wheels in reverse, but it didn't make sense to me that the 
lead truck would have much effect, since it just swings loose on its pivot.  After 
putting it up on blocks again, I noticed the absurdly long sander pipe, and cut 
it off.  Haven't tried running it again on the track to see if that cleared up the 
derailment problem, but it would certainly have caused trouble at some point.  
I wonder about the air hose on the tender, too.  It's a great touch for a fine-
scale model, but overkill for this one, and probably a source of derailment at 
some point when it snags a switch frog or a twig between the ties.

It would be a good thing to devise a centering mechanism for the lead truck so 
that it actually did some leading, rather than simply dangling in the breeze.

Another small issue is that when the safety weeps, it drops water directly onto 
the valve motion and, worse, right between the second and third drivers.  This 
can't be good for traction, and will probably require some kind of drip shield or 
diverter.

Since I'm running on my workbench, I put a piece of thin cotton cloth over the 
stack to keep the oil from getting all over my other projects.  This produced a 
much more visible steam plume, even through the cloth!  I am going to 
experiment some with a turbulator for the spark arrestor in an effort to 
replicate this effect.  The prototypical diamond stacks had one sort of diverter 
or another, which moved the exhaust stream in a spiral path, giving the 
cinders time to to lose momentum and drop out of the stream.  I hope to be 
able to cool the exhaust a little with a similar device, and slow it down with the 
screen a prototypical arrestor would have had, to get some more 
condensation above the stack.

One cool thing I noticed is that, after a couple of runs, there's enough steam 
oil collected in the smokebox that you get a terrific plume of actual smoke the 
next time you fire up.  Very cool!  Almost makes me consider one of those 
smoke generators like the SteamLines Shay had.

Tonight's run was very good -- smooth and trouble-free.  I got tired of standing 
around in an increasingly humid garage after 30 minutes into the second 
boiler load and shut it down.  This is going to be a RUNNING engine, good for 
some serious hauling and switching, with a minimum of downtime for 
servicing.  Hot dog!

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass