Re: Blackening Ruby Cylinders

2001-03-04 Thread Richard and Marie-Louise Wyckoff

Thanks for the advice on blacking the cyls. The answer seems to be to paint
the damn things with hi temp paint,  As they say if all else fails PUNT.
thanks again   Dick W.
-Original Message-
From: Kevin Strong [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: Blackening Ruby Cylinders


It's highly likely that the cylinders on the Ruby are not actually
brass, rather bronze. I don't know, but that would be my first
suspicion. (I know Argyle uses bronze for their cylinders.) I've had
similar difficulties with Roundhouse cylinders, so they may be made of
the same stuff. Perhaps someone who is a bit more in the know could
enlighten us.

Anyway, back to the topic at hand - getting some kind of a finish on the
Ruby cylinders. If you've cleaned them and the chemicals aren't making a
dent, then I don't think heat will make any difference. Neither will
lighting candles, ancient chants, or human sacrifices. (Although I know
of a few folks I wouldn't mind volunteering in the name of science.) So,
your next option is paint. Any high temperature paint will work fine.
Again, just make sure the surface is clean. Make sure the wheels and any
other surface are well masked.

***Tip*** If you want to keep paint from sticking to a surface near
which you are painting, but can't effectively mask, try painting the
surface with a bit of steam oil. It's thick enough to not run off, but
does a great job of keeping the paint from sticking to the surface. This
works GREAT!!! on wheel treads. (A fact I remembered _after_ I painted
the pilot and trailing trucks, mind you...)

If you want to go one further, you could make some kind of lagging for
your cylinders. These add just a bit of heft to them, and in my opinion,
bring them to life. I made mine from .015" brass sheet bent around the
outside of the cylinders and a layer of 1/16" cork. On top of that, I
layered .005 shim brass, which I folded over the edges to hide the cork.
I've got pictures of this at:

http://home.rochester.rr.com/kevstrains/Rubypage.html

If you use brass sheet on this, you can blacken it to match the boiler
lagging, or you could paint it as I did. I left the cylinder ends brass
(steam oil trick) for looks.

Later,

K

 



Re: Blackening Ruby Cylinders

2001-03-01 Thread Royce Woodbury



Kevin Strong wrote:


 If you want to go one further, you could make some kind of lagging for
 your cylinders. These add just a bit of heft to them, and in my opinion,
 bring them to life. I made mine from .015" brass sheet bent around the
 outside of the cylinders and a layer of 1/16" cork. On top of that, I
 layered .005 shim brass, which I folded over the edges to hide the cork.
 I've got pictures of this at:

 http://home.rochester.rr.com/kevstrains/Rubypage.html


Wow, Kevin.  I'm impressed.  What a transformation.  Fantastic job of
"kitbashing" !

royce (woodbury)
 



Blackening Ruby Cylinders

2001-02-28 Thread Kevin Strong

It's highly likely that the cylinders on the Ruby are not actually
brass, rather bronze. I don't know, but that would be my first
suspicion. (I know Argyle uses bronze for their cylinders.) I've had
similar difficulties with Roundhouse cylinders, so they may be made of
the same stuff. Perhaps someone who is a bit more in the know could
enlighten us.

Anyway, back to the topic at hand - getting some kind of a finish on the
Ruby cylinders. If you've cleaned them and the chemicals aren't making a
dent, then I don't think heat will make any difference. Neither will
lighting candles, ancient chants, or human sacrifices. (Although I know
of a few folks I wouldn't mind volunteering in the name of science.) So,
your next option is paint. Any high temperature paint will work fine.
Again, just make sure the surface is clean. Make sure the wheels and any
other surface are well masked. 

***Tip*** If you want to keep paint from sticking to a surface near
which you are painting, but can't effectively mask, try painting the
surface with a bit of steam oil. It's thick enough to not run off, but
does a great job of keeping the paint from sticking to the surface. This
works GREAT!!! on wheel treads. (A fact I remembered _after_ I painted
the pilot and trailing trucks, mind you...)

If you want to go one further, you could make some kind of lagging for
your cylinders. These add just a bit of heft to them, and in my opinion,
bring them to life. I made mine from .015" brass sheet bent around the
outside of the cylinders and a layer of 1/16" cork. On top of that, I
layered .005 shim brass, which I folded over the edges to hide the cork.
I've got pictures of this at:

http://home.rochester.rr.com/kevstrains/Rubypage.html 

If you use brass sheet on this, you can blacken it to match the boiler
lagging, or you could paint it as I did. I left the cylinder ends brass
(steam oil trick) for looks. 

Later,

K 



Re: Blackening Ruby Cylinders

2001-02-28 Thread WaltSwartz

If you want to be a little more accurate in your masking, try using a little 
melted paraffin and one of those old fashioned ink lettering pens with the 
adjustable width.
The pen must be warm or the paraffin will "set up" in the pen.
Keep your steam up!
Walt  Lunk