Re: Radiant burner need for Trot Fox

2002-03-06 Thread Gary

Ted Calavan came up with another easy idea to implement Kevin's radiant
burner.
Simply wrap the stainless steel mesh further around the burner. If the first
small screen layer of mesh is rolled tighter than the burner diameter it
will hold to the burner without any stiching using stainless wire. The
second larger diameter and larger screened mesh layer is also large enough
to wrap all but 1/8" around the burner with mesh layer. This layer needs a
bit of fiddling to get it to tent above the first layer and still grip the
burner. Both Ted and I made radiant burners this way. It takes less than an
hour for our first one. I expect subsequent ones would be faster.
I still want to do it Kevin's way. That is I wish to fabricate one with the
slots cut gradually deeper from the tip back to the gas nozzle. I also want
to install the burner upside down. I expect this will not only heat the last
of water in the boiler but also reduce heat stress on the burner tube when
water is not covering the entire tube. The last benefit I hope exists, is to
heat a super heater with the super heater on top of the upside down radiant
burner. I expext this would heat well with less stress on the superheater.
~Gary - Eugene, Oregon


- Original Message -
From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: Radiant burner need for Trot Fox


> Someone at Diamondhead showed me a simple and apparently effective
alternative
> to Kevin O'Connor's thoroughly engineered solution.  The fellow says it
works
> well, and while I doubt it works quite as well as Kevin's, it looked to me
like
> it should help a lot, and it was SIMPLE.
>
> He took a length of 1/32" (or so) stainless steel wire and inserted one
end
> into a 1/32" hole drilled into the shoulder of the burner body.  Then, he
made
> a spiral of about 1/2" diameter that ran down the length of the burner,
with
> about the 3/16" space between the coils.  I don't recall how the front end
was
> affixed to the end of the poker, but that's about all there was to it.
The
> stainless got very hot, radiated a good bit of heat into the gas stream,
and
> presumably finished (most of) the combustion just as Kevin's layers of
mesh
> would.
>
> Now, who was that?  I'd like to give him proper credit, as well as keep in
> touch with him about further refinements.
>
> regards,
>   -vance-
>
> Vance Bass
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
> Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
>
>
 



Re: Radiant burner need for Trot Fox

2002-03-06 Thread Bruce Gathman

Vance,

Could it have been John Garret or Paul Trevaskus?  They both had samples at DH I
believe.

On Tue, 05 Mar 2002 22:42:28 -0700, Vance Bass wrote:

>Someone at Diamondhead showed me a simple and apparently effective alternative 
>to Kevin O'Connor's thoroughly engineered solution.  The fellow says it works 
>well, and while I doubt it works quite as well as Kevin's, it looked to me like 
>it should help a lot, and it was SIMPLE.
>
>He took a length of 1/32" (or so) stainless steel wire and inserted one end 
>into a 1/32" hole drilled into the shoulder of the burner body.  Then, he made 
>a spiral of about 1/2" diameter that ran down the length of the burner, with 
>about the 3/16" space between the coils.  I don't recall how the front end was 
>affixed to the end of the poker, but that's about all there was to it.  The 
>stainless got very hot, radiated a good bit of heat into the gas stream, and 
>presumably finished (most of) the combustion just as Kevin's layers of mesh 
>would.
>
>Now, who was that?  I'd like to give him proper credit, as well as keep in 
>touch with him about further refinements.
>
>regards,
>  -vance-


  Bruce Gathman, President
Eldorado Timber & Mining Co.
  Tall Trees - Deep Shafts



Re: Radiant burner need for Trot Fox

2002-03-05 Thread VR Bass

Someone at Diamondhead showed me a simple and apparently effective alternative 
to Kevin O'Connor's thoroughly engineered solution.  The fellow says it works 
well, and while I doubt it works quite as well as Kevin's, it looked to me like 
it should help a lot, and it was SIMPLE.

He took a length of 1/32" (or so) stainless steel wire and inserted one end 
into a 1/32" hole drilled into the shoulder of the burner body.  Then, he made 
a spiral of about 1/2" diameter that ran down the length of the burner, with 
about the 3/16" space between the coils.  I don't recall how the front end was 
affixed to the end of the poker, but that's about all there was to it.  The 
stainless got very hot, radiated a good bit of heat into the gas stream, and 
presumably finished (most of) the combustion just as Kevin's layers of mesh 
would.

Now, who was that?  I'd like to give him proper credit, as well as keep in 
touch with him about further refinements.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
 



Radiant burner need for Trot Fox

2002-03-05 Thread Gary

Well Trot Fox,
You could get copper screen or aluminum screen from a craft store and try
the idea out knowing that what you make now now now will burn off soon, but
not before you get to test it out.
Another advantage, just like the SitG article claimed, the exhaust is cooler
and steam plume is better. Of course the butane burner howl is quieter as
well, partly because less fuel is going into the fire per second. By the
way, boiler pressure was raised just as fast or faster than before from cold
boiler to steam!
~Gary - Eugene, Oregon

- Original Message -
From: "Landon Solomon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: Project Locomotive chains & gears


> Holy cow!  Ok, has anyone done this to a Ruby yet, or will I have to be
the
> first?  I really want to do it but have yet to get any SS mesh.
>
> Also, anyone know where this is readily available from?  I know I can get
> it from SSSM but I have this thing about being able to bring stuff home
> _now_.  ;]  Would it be available at Home Depot as a sink-repair item?
>
> Trot, the somewhat excited, fox...  =)
>
> At 07:12 PM 3/5/02, you wrote:
> >The current issue of Steam in the Garden has a wonderful article on a
> >"Denver" loco created by the Denver Garden Railway Society. A kit for the
> >Denver locos chain drive for $58.00 is available through Sulphur Springs
> >Steam Models  http://www.sssmodels.com/ .
> >
> >http://www.sidestreetbannerworks.com/locos/loco19.html  Marc Horovitz has
a
> >page describing the Denver.
> >
> >This Steam in the Garden issue #63 also has a very clear article on
making a
> >radiant burner. Two of us in Eugene area have already made two radiant
> >burners. One burner improved burn time from near 30 minutes to 85
minutes.
> >Now to make sure water level staff are always on the ball!
> >
> >~Gary - Eugene, Oregon
>
>
>
>/\_/\   TrotFox \ Always remember,
>   ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon\ "There is a
>>\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
>
>