Re: [time-nuts] COMPLETELY off topic - but I know you'll read itanyway.

2008-10-11 Thread Don Johnson
Jim,

 

Ahh audio, my first love and almost 50-years of experience. You already have 
replies with the right answers but here is my 2-cents..

 

>I've dug out the manual and even though the specifications say it can do 4
>ohms in bridged mode, there is another statement that says it doesn't
>recommend it.

 

The recommendation is due to current limiting in the amplifier. The amplifier 
output impedance is doubled from the typical 4-ohm per channel to 8-ohm when 
bridged. If you loaded the bridged output with 4-ohm (both 8-ohm speakers in 
parallel), it would require double the current through each output stage in 
addition to 2x the draw from the power supply. Current limiting, probably in 
the power supply, would result at a much lower peak voltage from each channel. 
The result is less power (earlier clipping/distortion) with this lower than 
design point load. 

 

>"The A channel handles the positive voltage and the B channel becomes the
>negative, thus doubling the output voltage swing."

 

This is a very odd way to state what's happening in the bridged mode. You gatta 
love manuals written by the marketing department. Not totally wrong but only 
accurate during complex instances in time when the positive half of the output 
is indeed handled by ch-A and the negative by ch-B. In another instance 
however, this will be reversed. A more accurate description is what someone 
else has already stated as a push-pull arrangement of the out-of-phase driven 
channels. The bridge mode switch couples one of the input channels to both 
output stages but also inserts an additional op-amp stage (phase inverter) in 
only one of the channels. Now as the input signal goes positive, the "hot" 
terminal of ch-A will be driven positive while the "hot" terminal of ch-B will 
be driven negative equally. All this reverses as the input signal goes negative.

 

The clincher for you to NOT operate in bridge mode is that you have TWO 
speakers of the correct impedance to match each channel separately. Just drive 
both input channels with a Y adapter from your mono source and you will have 
the best arrangement. If there is ever a time that you want to only drive one 
of the 8-ohm speakers, now you would want to bridge the amp and connect the one 
speaker accordingly.

 

Regards...

Don




  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim Palfreyman 
  To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
  Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 7:48 AM
  Subject: Re: [time-nuts] COMPLETELY off topic - but I know you'll read 
itanyway.


  Thanks folks for your quick replies.

  I've dug out the manual and even though the specifications say it can do 4
  ohms in bridged mode, there is another statement that says it doesn't
  recommend it.

  Here is what it says about bridged mode:

  "The A channel handles the positive voltage and the B channel becomes the
  negative, thus doubling the output voltage swing."

  Needless to say, Poul's comment regarding running them as two separate
  channels because if one fails I'll have another as a spare is the clincher
  for me. Being from an IT background - backup is all important.

  Thanks folks!



  2008/10/11 Javier Herrero <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

  > If 500W are specified for a 4 ohm load, you will only obtain 250W for
  > each channel over a 8 ohm speaker. In bridged mode, it is not true that
  > basically one channel drives the upper part of the sine and the other
  > the lower: they operate in push-pull, supplying each side of the speaker
  > with opposite phases so you will obtain the double peak-to-peak  voltage
  > value over the load than in the single ended configuration. Double
  > voltage would mean four-times power, so the amplifier surely is not
  > rated for the same load in bridged mode than in single-ended two-channel
  > mode. If minimum load for each channel is 4 ohm in single-ended mode,
  > usually it is 8 ohm for two channels in bridged mode.
  >
  > So if you have 8 ohm speakers... use it in single ended mode (better
  > reliability also, as Poul-Henning pointed), and you will get 250W per
  > channel. In brigde mode, you could only put the two speakers in parallel
  > if the amplifier is rated for 4 ohm loads in bridged mode.
  >
  > Regards,
  >
  > Javier
  >
  > Jim Palfreyman escribió:
  > > OK I have an interesting but simple problem that has nothing to do with
  > > time. But I'm sure someone on this list will know. And besides I can't be
  > > stuffed finding another list with such a good S/N ratio.
  > >
  > > In my spare time I play in a band.
  > >
  > > I have a 1000W amplifier that can be either two 500W stereo channels or a
  > > single 1000W mono running in "bridged" mode. (Basically one channel
  > > amplifies the upper part of the sine curve and the other the lower.)
  > >
  > > The amp can drive speakers down to 4 ohms.
  > >
  > > I have two 8 ohm speakers.
  > >
  > > The source is mono.
  > >
  > > Do I run each 8 ohm speaker on its own 500W chan

Re: [time-nuts] Austron 2000C on EBay

2007-10-03 Thread Don Johnson
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Errors-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] RETRY

What is the frequency source in this unit?

Regards...
Don


- Original Message 
From: Rob Kimberley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2007 12:07:02 PM
Subject: [time-nuts] Austron 2000C on EBay


); SAEximRunCond expanded to false
Errors-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] RETRY


Just spotted Item 280158942374.

Just wondered why they only took picture of the rear.

Rob Kimberley



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Re: [time-nuts] Fury OEM GPSDO board

2007-09-30 Thread Don Johnson
); SAEximRunCond expanded to false
Errors-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] RETRY

Said,

Please add my name to the list for the Fury board. I will make PayPal payment 
after details from you.

Thanks...
Don Johnson
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: time-nuts@febo.com 
  Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:22 PM
  Subject: [time-nuts] Fury OEM GPSDO board


  Hi guys,
   
  ok, we have enough interest, and I cleared the project with marketing. We  
  can offer the units new with warranty for $550 each to Time Nuts members.
   
  So far I have the following members noted:
   
Ernie
Scott
John
Matt
Brian
   
  Please let me know if there is additional interest. We can ship the units  
  throughout the next week. We can accept PayPal (preferred), US checks, or  
  wire-transfers. I will get in touch with you offline about payment  details.
   

  Since not all OCXO's and oscillators that are out there may work with  the 
  Fury really well, we will give a functional return warranty (units need to  
be 
  clean, un-modified and in working order to be returned). Shipping cannot  be 
  refunded.
   

  Please see the attached image for what you will receive: the PCB with SMA  
  connectors for 10MHz input and the EFC output, and an adapter cable for the 
M12+ 
   GPS antenna to BNC. No OCXO is included.
   
  The external OCXO can also be powered from the unit (at 10.45V with 250mA  
  max current, most 12V OCXO's will run well at 10.45V) - that has the 
advantage  
  of the unit being able to offer temperature compensation for OCXO's that have 
  a  linear temperature-to-current relationship.
   
  The Fury expects a 10MHz Sine or CMOS output from the OCXO and will work  
  between 0dBm and +10dBm. The Fury will generate 0V to +5V EFC voltage. It 
runs  
  from a 11.0V to 14.0V clean external DC supply. An LCD (16x2) and a 
single-key  
  button can optionally be connected for status information. The 10MHz from  
  the OCXO will be buffered (emitter-follower without gain) and is available as 
a  
  low-pass filtered, buffered Sine Wave output and also as a fast-slew-rate  50 
  Ohm compatible CMOS output.
   
  Thanks for your interest everyone,
  Said 



  ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com



--






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[time-nuts] Another GPSDO project

2007-09-03 Thread Don Johnson
); SAEximRunCond expanded to false
Errors-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] RETRY

Hi group,

I an still somewhat in the middle of this project but what's left is mostly 
fine tuning and the cosmetics of getting it enclosed. I have been using a 
Trimble Thunderbolt for over a year now and, for the most part, find it a very 
nice long term comparative reference for my Efratom Rb. I purchased this 
Thunderbolt as a Starter kit that included the antenna and downlead on eBay and 
like the overall performance. The weakest part however, of the TB is the 
oscillator. With room temperature cycling with heating and AC, I would 
typically see a +-20 nS sine wave looking steering pattern with a period of 
about 10-20 minutes. I always wanted to modify my unit to use a better doubled 
ovenized oscillator. 

Recently, George Dubovsky offered some Trimble Thunderbolts (boards only) for 
sale and I jumped at the chance to use one of his boards as an experimental set 
up and not mess up my only GPS reference. Some of you may know, the TB board is 
made to solder SMB connectors for an external oscillator. These connector pads 
are useable only after you remove the onboard oscillator. There is one for the 
10Mhz in and another for the VFC out. The electrical characteristics nicely 
match an HP 10811 and that's what I used. Using Thunderbolt Monitor software, 
the VFC slope was modified from -5.00 to -0.45 Hz/V and the Filter TC and 
Damping were changed to 400 and 1.1 respectively to more gently steer the 
10811. The results seem to be working great. I now have a  very gentle 
40-minute, +- 5 nS pattern as referenced to my local Rb. I am using the more 
stable and low phase noise 10811-80168 so I didn't compromise on the low phase 
noise of the original onboard oscillator but greatly improved stability. I am 
still working with filter TC and damping settings to see if further improvement 
can be had. The trick seems to be very gentle nudges without over steering on 
one side or "loosing it" on the other.

I would also like to experiment with the Fury board with an external oscillator 
to compare results. Are you listening Said?

Regards...
Don

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Re: [time-nuts] Antenna recommendation for Timing Amateur

2007-06-14 Thread Don Johnson
Jim,

You may not have to have an amplified antenna but it will work best by 
providing stronger signals thus allowing more SV to be tracked at any given 
time. This would be especially true during heavy rain periods.
 
The primary difference between a timing antenna and anything otherwise is a 
design that limits reception path length differences at all elevations and 
azimuths. The physical appearance of a timing antenna is usually a bullet shape 
or small dome compared to a big square. The precise point in the antenna that 
provides the highest SNR to all of the currently received SVs at any elevation 
and azimuth is where the timing phase differences are determined. Any 
difference in this being a single precise point vs. multiple points that move 
around within the antenna’s gain pattern would define the antenna’s phase error.
 
Don J.
True-Cal Services
 
- Original Message 
From: Jim Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: time-nuts 
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 11:11:43 AM
Subject: [time-nuts] Antenna recommendation for Timing Amateur


I'm planning on getting a M12M and would like a recommendation for an 
antenna for timing purposes.

I'm just an amateur looking to discipline an oscillator. No scientific uses 
planned.

My antenna coax is likely to be 30ft or more so I suspect I'll need an 
amplified antenna.

The M12M outputs 3v so the "timing" antennas offered by Synergy don't 
directly apply.

What is the real difference between a "timing" antenna and one meant for 
mobile use?

Synergy offers several amplified mobile antennas that would work with 3v.

tia

jim ab3cv 


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Re: [time-nuts] Information on OVCXO (Don J)

2007-06-13 Thread Don Johnson
> I just become the owner of a Precision Crystal EROS-750- SBR -4 
> voltage controlled OCXO. I believe that this is the oscillator that 
> is used in the SRS SR620 Frequency Counter when it has the 2-ppb 
> option-01 timebase (please correct me if wrong info). The unit has 
> four terminals simply labled 1-4 on the bottom as well as the case 
> studs. The label says it is a +15VDC unit. Can anyone provide the 
> pin-out of this oscillator. Short of an actual pin diagram, can 
> anyone suggest a way to help identify each pin function, i.e. DC 
> resistance, AC impedance, safely applying power with series 
> resistance? I do not want to blow this unit as I have high hopes for 
> it as a replacement disciplined oscillator in my Trimble Thunderbolt 
> GPS timebase. I will be glad to share my conversion experience as I 
> proceed with this project. Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Don Johnson
> True-Cal Services
***
So what happened to the original oscillator, Don?
DaveB, NZ

Hi Dave,

I guess you are asking about the original oscillator in the Thunderbolt. The 
symptoms would suggest that the heater has gone bad. I use it to track my Rb 
standard for long term drift. I use an SRS SR620 with a Tek display to watch 
Alan Variance and drift over both short and long time intervals. I monitor the 
rate of time change between ch-A (Rb) and ch-B (Thunderbolt) 10MHz signals as 
they cross through 0.0V trigger point. The Thunderbolt has started to do a 
rapid change of >100 ns as my air conditioning cycles in the room. The 
Thunderbolt monitor computer interface program displays only 0.5 degree change 
in internal temperature. In the past, I could always maintain <20 ns change 
that resembled a sine wave with about a 5-minute period (GPS disciplined TC) 
with little affect from the room AC. Now it looks like a sawtooth with the 
period of my AC.
 
The original oscillator is an OCXO but not as good as this new double ovened 
SC-cut oscillator. The VC range is the same between the two oscillators and the 
time-constant I can change with the Thunderbolt software.
 
Comments…
 
Regards…
Don



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[time-nuts] Information on OVCXO

2007-06-12 Thread Don Johnson
Hello Time-Nuts,
 
I just become the owner of a Precision Crystal EROS-750- SBR -4 voltage 
controlled OCXO. I believe that this is the oscillator that is used in the SRS 
SR620 Frequency Counter when it has the 2-ppb option-01 timebase (please 
correct me if wrong info). The unit has four terminals simply labled 1-4 on the 
bottom as well as the case studs. The label says it is a +15VDC unit. Can 
anyone provide the pin-out of this oscillator. Short of an actual pin diagram, 
can anyone suggest a way to help identify each pin function, i.e. DC 
resistance, AC impedance, safely applying power with series resistance? I do 
not want to blow this unit as I have high hopes for it as a replacement 
disciplined oscillator in my Trimble Thunderbolt GPS timebase. I will be glad 
to share my conversion experience as I proceed with this project. Thanks in 
advance for any help.
 
Don Johnson
True-Cal Services
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