Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
This is one of the best F connector tools:
http://www.dxengineering.com/Parts.asp?ID=4882&PLID=246&SecID=129&DeptID={7C
0A8FE1-F72C-4346-916E-8AA93CD2A66B}&PartNo=DXE%2DCIT%2D1
Helps to tighten - but not over tighten.
73!
Tim K3LR
-Original Message-
From: topband-boun...@contesting.com [mailto:topband-boun...@contesting.com]
On Behalf Of Roger D Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 6:05 PM
To: TOPBAND@CONTESTING.COM
Subject: Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
25 to 30 in/lbs from the instructions I downloaded.
73, Roger
On 12/13/2011 6:32 PM, Ron Kolarik wrote:
> With all this talk of proper RG-6 connectors I've seen
> nothing about the proper torque spec. You do know there's
> a torque spec I hope. I've put on thousands, yes thousands,
> of RG-6 and RG-59 connectors and if they aren't torqued
> properly you're asking for trouble down the road especially
> if they are outside. Thermal cycling wil loosen them over time.
> Each connector manufacturer should have this listed for
> their fittings and click type wrenches are available but not
> cheap. Do not buy a used wrench, probably not even close to the
> proper spec.
>
>
--
Remember the Liberty (AGTR-5)
http://www.usslibertyveterans.org/
http://www.gtr5.com/
___
UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
___
UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
25 to 30 in/lbs from the instructions I downloaded. 73, Roger On 12/13/2011 6:32 PM, Ron Kolarik wrote: > With all this talk of proper RG-6 connectors I've seen > nothing about the proper torque spec. You do know there's > a torque spec I hope. I've put on thousands, yes thousands, > of RG-6 and RG-59 connectors and if they aren't torqued > properly you're asking for trouble down the road especially > if they are outside. Thermal cycling wil loosen them over time. > Each connector manufacturer should have this listed for > their fittings and click type wrenches are available but not > cheap. Do not buy a used wrench, probably not even close to the > proper spec. > > -- Remember the Liberty (AGTR-5) http://www.usslibertyveterans.org/ http://www.gtr5.com/ ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
With all this talk of proper RG-6 connectors I've seen nothing about the proper torque spec. You do know there's a torque spec I hope. I've put on thousands, yes thousands, of RG-6 and RG-59 connectors and if they aren't torqued properly you're asking for trouble down the road especially if they are outside. Thermal cycling wil loosen them over time. Each connector manufacturer should have this listed for their fittings and click type wrenches are available but not cheap. Do not buy a used wrench, probably not even close to the proper spec. Flooded cable comes with some unique problems, the flooding will flow into connectors and generally make a mess if your connectors aren't put on properly. Also try not to have a connector at the bottom of a vertical run, small radius below the connector and mount horizontal. DO NOT USE ANY TAPE or other covering on the connectors, if you put them on right they are waterproof.horizontal or the backend of the connector pointing down. Quad shield is nice if you get it cheap but the only place I've ever used it was in a head-end..rf and computer generated noise, lots of it and engineering required it. The single braid and foil shield will do nicely and for amateur use is more than adequate. The last cable I used was Commscope with either PPC or Digicon connectors. Standard 1/4" center conductor and 1/4" shield/braid exposed. In practical use once the end is prepped the braid is simply fanned away from the foil a bit and the fitting pushed on until the di-electric is flush inside the connector, check for stray braid and crimp Ron K0IDT Message: 4 Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2011 09:00:36 -0500 From: "Gary Smith" Subject: Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors To: TOPBAND@CONTESTING.COM Message-ID: <4ee75a84.13163.1258f...@gary.ka1j.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Thanks so much to all who replied, I didn't know to get a different model of connector, the twist on kind from Radio Shack I had used with this cable seemed to fit just fine so I thought one size fit all. Gary KA1J ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
On 12/13/2011 11:25 AM, ZR wrote: > Folks might want to stop at the next Comcast or whatever is in your > area service van and watch how they do the connectors. Anyone getting > caught using vise grips would be delivering pizzas the next day. But that's only true if the specific connector type exactly matches the physical construction of the cable, and if the right tool is used. The match between cable and connector is the key part of the problem. Someone who is buying tens of millions of feet of cable and millions of connectors for a CATV company has the luxury of free samples of both from the manufacturers to make sure they are getting that match exactly right, or the recommendation from a mfr's rep, and in some cases, even getting connectors made to match the cable.. The rest of us are doing our best to match the descriptions in one catalog with the descriptions in another. 73, Jim K9YC ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
It shouldn't take so much force that you need pliers to slide the connector body onto the cable. That sounds to me like the foil is jamming up inside the cable/connector. What I've always done with the quad-shield (and tri-shield) cable is to remove the outer foil and then fold both braids back over the jacket with the plastic snap-ring between the jacket and the braid (similar to how the inner metal ring works in an N connector). If the inner foil isn't bonded to the dielectric then I usually remove that too but you need to be careful since the foil needs to go *inside* the tube-like inner part of the metal connector body. It's very important that neither the foil nor the braid get stuffed back down into the jacket when installing an SNS-type F connector. If the foil gets stuffed down into the cable the connector will be a real pain to slide in place. If the braid gets stuffed down into the cable the connector won't be able to properly grip the cable once installed due to the too-small effective diameter of the cable with the displaced braid. I also don't think the newer-style connectors that have an integral snap-in plastic piece are as a good as the older style where the snap-in piece was completely removable from the metal connector body. I've always found the "two piece" type SNS connectors to hold better after installation. -Bill > Over the years, with considerable experimentation (and a fair number of > wasted connectors), I've learned that, even with the "right" connector, > I must twist the connector onto the cable with considerable force using > vice-grip pliers, then crimp it. I am currently using Paladin > connectors and a $20 Paladin crimper that I bought at Fry's a year or so > ago. I bought two jars, one color coded black and the other violet. They > seem to work equally well with the RG6 that I have, and I can't pull > them off once they are on. > > 73, Jim K9YC > ___ > UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
On 12/12/2011 9:34 PM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote: > After stripping off the jacket you need to fold back the braid over the > jacket and then slide the connector on. It should not be terribly > difficult but they do not slide on without resistance. About eight years ago, I bought a fairly expensive T&B tool, a nice stripper, and moderate quantities of six different connectors to fit different coax types, and attempted to use them with some quad shielded Commscope RG6 to rewire my home in Chicago for FM and TV antenna distribution. Not one of them went onto the cable without effort, and not one of them stayed on the cable with even the slightest pull. I had similar results with other RG6 cables after I moved to CA a few years later. Over the years, with considerable experimentation (and a fair number of wasted connectors), I've learned that, even with the "right" connector, I must twist the connector onto the cable with considerable force using vice-grip pliers, then crimp it. I am currently using Paladin connectors and a $20 Paladin crimper that I bought at Fry's a year or so ago. I bought two jars, one color coded black and the other violet. They seem to work equally well with the RG6 that I have, and I can't pull them off once they are on. 73, Jim K9YC ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
Hello Gary, Lots of great info from the group. From my calculations, you only need probably ten connectors for your triangle array. Match them up and go for it my friend. You spent thousands on the radio and amplifier. The RX antenna is the most important part of your TB system. Bite the bullet and get the good connectors. GL and 73, Bob K3UL ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
I noticed that the last time I was at the big box stores that they are only carrying one type of connector that they say is good for both types of cables. I don't use Quad shield cable so I don't know they work on quad either. Mike W0MU W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net On 12/12/2011 3:34 PM, Roger D Johnson wrote: > The normal (blue) connector has a sleeve dia of .290" > The normal quad shield (purple) connector has a sleeve dia of .315" > The universal (red) connector has a sleeve dia of .293" > > I don't have any quad shield cable handy or I'd try it with a red connector. I > assume it works OK but I don't know how you can stuff it into a sleeve .022" > smaller in diameter. > > 73, Roger > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 12/12/2011 4:06 PM, Phil Duff wrote: >> On 12/12/2011 20:45, Roger D Johnson wrote: >> There are different color banded F SNS connectors for different RG6 >> shield configurations. >> >> But now there is a new style "Ultimate" SNS F connector with a red >> collar. These are spec'ed to work with: "60% braid, tri-shield and quad >> shield." >> >> ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
The normal (blue) connector has a sleeve dia of .290" The normal quad shield (purple) connector has a sleeve dia of .315" The universal (red) connector has a sleeve dia of .293" I don't have any quad shield cable handy or I'd try it with a red connector. I assume it works OK but I don't know how you can stuff it into a sleeve .022" smaller in diameter. 73, Roger On 12/12/2011 4:06 PM, Phil Duff wrote: > On 12/12/2011 20:45, Roger D Johnson wrote: > There are different color banded F SNS connectors for different RG6 > shield configurations. > > But now there is a new style "Ultimate" SNS F connector with a red > collar. These are spec'ed to work with: "60% braid, tri-shield and quad > shield." > > -- Remember the Liberty (AGTR-5) http://www.usslibertyveterans.org/ http://www.gtr5.com/ ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
On 12/12/2011 3:34 PM, ZR wrote: > You can rest assured that anything from DXE is marked up well beyond > what it can be had for elsewhere. > > I got the stripper which handles all RG-59 and 6 cables, a Klein > compressor and Thomas and Betts connectors all off Ebay. There is so > much competition the prices are rock bottom and usually with free > shipping. > > The DXE site is used to get a good laugh at what some people actually > pay for things. The various Beverage and other receiving stuff are > good examples. > However hams that are too lazy, proud or stupid to build a simple > matching transformer, etc, get what they deserve. An hour or two on > the Internet/Google has most of the info and Topband can answer what > is missing. > > Carl > KM1H > AMEN to that Carl, except that I always thought that the pride came from using what I have learned as a HAM to be able to say that I built it myself, and it works great. 73, Mike, W5UC ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
On 12/12/2011 20:45, Roger D Johnson wrote: > You may have the wrong connector. The color band indicates the type of > coax that they are designed for. In general, double shield connectors will > not work on quad shield coax. There are different color banded F SNS connectors for different RG6 shield configurations. But now there is a new style "Ultimate" SNS F connector with a red collar. These are spec'ed to work with: "60% braid, tri-shield and quad shield." http://www.tnb.com/contractor/docs/snapnseal.pdf I used these with CommScope flooded dual shield RG6 and they installed and worked fine. 73 Phil NA4M -- -. .- - -- -. .- - -- -. .- - -- Phil Duff Georgetown, Texas http://priceless.apduff.com http://stockphoto.apduff.com ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
You may have the wrong connector. The color band indicates the type of coax that they are designed for. In general, double shield connectors will not work on quad shield coax. 73, Roger On 12/12/2011 2:00 PM, Gary Smith wrote: > > Nice, but I can't seem to figure out how to get the snap-n-seal > connector mounted on the coax. I've tried slipping the coax in but > the inner sleeve on the connector won't go under the braid or vinyl, > trying to tap it into place is futile. > > Any suggestions how to get the coax in the connector properly? I'd > like to get this finished before the snow hits. > ___ > UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK > -- Remember the Liberty (AGTR-5) http://www.usslibertyveterans.org/ http://www.gtr5.com/ ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
On 12/12/2011 1:11 PM, Tim Duffy K3LR wrote:
> Hi Gary!
>
> This is the tool I use for installation of F connectors on flooded RG-6 with
> great results over the years.
>
> http://www.dxengineering.com/Parts.asp?ID=1062&PLID=247&SecID=129&DeptID={7C
> 0A8FE1-F72C-4346-916E-8AA93CD2A66B}&PartNo=DXE%2DSNS%2DCT1
>
> 73,
> Tim K3LR
>
Gents, look on e-bay. I bought a tool that looks exactly like that,
along with 100 connectors for $25.00 shipped.
73,
Mike, W5UC
___
UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
This will be a bit tricky to explain in text, but I'll give it a shot. You need to use a 3-level strip for SNS connectors. You need to have the center conductor exposed for maybe 3/8" or so to create the "pin" in the connector. You need about 1/8" or a bit less of dielectric only without braid, then about 1/4" of exposed braid. Note that the braid can NOT go to the end of the dielectric. I like to slide the plastic ring onto the cable before stripping. You can do it after, but then the braid tends to get in the way and if it's a flooded cable it's messier. After stripping, fold the braid back over the plastic ring. The braid should stop a little bit before the ramp/ridge that retains the O ring. Make sure the braid doesn't overlap the ridge or the o-ring -- if it does you won't be able to get the ring to snap into place in the connector body. Ideally you want the braid straightened out like you would do for an N connector, but it's not super critical as long as it will fit into the connector body in the last step without jamming. Make sure to strip the foil back to the level of the braid after the braid has been folded back over the plastic ring. If the innermost foil (in the case of tri- or quad-shield cable) is bonded to the dielectric then you can leave it in place, but I always check to make sure my stripper hasn't left a little swirl of foil on the end after cutting. That "swirl" can short the center conductor to the shield. After the above, the connector body should push onto the cable without trouble. Sometimes a little bit of twisting will help to seat the connector body fully, but be careful not to twist the braid into a spiral. Push it on until it stops, at which point the dielectric should be flush with the bottom of the threaded part of the connector body. Once the connector body is fully on the cable, use the tool to compress the plastic ring into the connector body until it snaps into place. Make sure the O ring doesn't pop out from around the circumference of the connector. I usually trim the center conductor as a last step since I tend to always make it a little too long when I initially strip the cable. Note that the above is for the SNS/Augat/Thomas and Betts style connectors. The other kind of "SNS" connectors where the plastic ring and connector body are one piece are a little different and I don't have experience with those. -Bill > > I figure someone here knows the answer, I want to put better > connectors on my flooded RG-6/U coax going to my Hi-Z triangular > assembly. I bought a used tool like this off fleabay > http://tinyurl.com/7vr5kvn and 100 connectors (It's a long life...) > > You put the coax in the stripper and two blades cut the jacket, > removing just the right amount of vinyl and simultaneously cutting > down to the center wire at the right place. Then you put the > connector with the coax in it ready to be compressed and you squeeze > and it locks the connector. > > Nice, but I can't seem to figure out how to get the snap-n-seal > connector mounted on the coax. I've tried slipping the coax in but > the inner sleeve on the connector won't go under the braid or vinyl, > trying to tap it into place is futile. > > Any suggestions how to get the coax in the connector properly? I'd > like to get this finished before the snow hits. > ___ > UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
Gary, I use the IT-1000 here. If your connectors have a removable back side (with O-ring seal) place it on the the cable first. Then hand twist the connector onto the stripped coax (gloves help.) You should be able to hand-seat it to where the center conductor is flush with the connector shell, and you'll see the dielectric when looking into the connector. Then use the IT-1000 to perform the final crimp by placing the connector into the end of the tool and squeezing the handle. Be sure to order some extra blades for your IT-1000; they definately don't last forever. If you have the newer connectors with the non-removable back seal (like the red S&S series) just push the entire connector on until seated as above, then crimp. It takes a bit more force to put the newer one-piece Snap-nSeal connectors onto the coax. The newer connectors just barely fit into the crimping compression slot on my 15-year old IT-1000, but they do fit. 73, Kirk K4RO ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
On 12/12/2011 19:00, Gary Smith wrote: > Nice, but I can't seem to figure out how to get the snap-n-seal > connector mounted on the coax. I've tried slipping the coax in but > the inner sleeve on the connector won't go under the braid or vinyl, > trying to tap it into place is futile. I just put some SNS connectors on flooded double shielded RG6 with the same tool. Strip the coax with the tool. Then fold the coax braid (but not the foil tape) back over the outside of the jacket before pushing the connector onto the coax. Then use the tool to seat the connector. de Phil NA4M -- -. .- - -- -. .- - -- -. .- - -- Phil Duff Georgetown, Texas http://priceless.apduff.com http://stockphoto.apduff.com ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors
Gary, I'm currently using Thomas & Betts compression connectors on both flooded and normal RG6. The tools I'm using were purchased at Lowe's for ~$20 each. One is a stripper, specific to RG-6. The compression tool is designed for the T&B connectors and RG-6 cable. Strip the cable so that 1/4 inch of center is exposed, and 1/4 inch of outer insulation behind that is removed. Fold back the outer shield metal so that it lays flat on the cable jacket, away from the exposed dielectric and center conductor. I've been leaving the foil shield intact on the dielectric. Push the connector onto the prepared cable so that the center conductor is flush with the outer shell of the connector (or protruding a short distance beyond) and the dielectric is lined up with the end of the smaller diameter hole inside the connector. Basically, when you screw on the female connector, you want the dielectric to just butt up to the dielectric of the female connector. It does take some force to push the connector on. The tools do not do this for you. Only when all the pieces are lined up should the compression ring be engaged with the compression tool. Compress until the rubber O-ring is no longer visible. Hope that helps. -Jeff W0ODS Cedar Rapids, IA > > From: Gary Smith >To: TOPBAND@CONTESTING.COM >Sent: Monday, December 12, 2011 1:00 PM >Subject: Topband: RG-6/U & Snap n Seal connectors > >I figure someone here knows the answer, I want to put better >connectors on my flooded RG-6/U coax going to my Hi-Z triangular >assembly. I bought a used tool like this off fleabay >http://tinyurl.com/7vr5kvn and 100 connectors (It's a long life...) > >You put the coax in the stripper and two blades cut the jacket, >removing just the right amount of vinyl and simultaneously cutting >down to the center wire at the right place. Then you put the >connector with the coax in it ready to be compressed and you squeeze >and it locks the connector. > >Nice, but I can't seem to figure out how to get the snap-n-seal >connector mounted on the coax. I've tried slipping the coax in but >the inner sleeve on the connector won't go under the braid or vinyl, >trying to tap it into place is futile. > >Any suggestions how to get the coax in the connector properly? I'd >like to get this finished before the snow hits. >___ >UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK > > > ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
