>
> http://globalflyfisher.com/fishbetter/shootingheads/
Hello Tom,
Apologies for the late reply, I have been very busy, tho fly fishing
oriented for a change!
I thought I'd throw something into this thread since I know your situation
is similar to mine. I am primarily a stillwater fly fisherman, so I look at
shooting heads in that light.
The Global Flyfisher link posted by DonO is the one I used as reference for
starting with shooting heads.
Here were your questions:
*How do you cast and load them? *
Your shooting head (usually 30-35 ft.) attaches to a small diameter, level
running line. In one piece lines, the transition is marked on the line with
a change in color or a band of color. You should have that transition zone
1-2 feet outside of the rod tip. At that point, you lift your line off the
water, make a false cast or two then shoot the running line through the
guides. If the transition zone is inside the rod tip, there isn't the
optimum amount of line weight available to load your rod properly, and you
won't get as much distance on the cast.
*What are the main advantages/disadvantages?*
Advantages: longer casts with less backcast room needed. Fewer false casts.
Capable of throwing large, bulky flies. Mix and match playing around with
heads and shooting lines appeals to tinkerers. Shooting heads are less
expensive than full fly lines and you can just use a common running line for
all of them save some cash. You can easily add 10' to a normal cast and
15'-20' isn't that difficult. Every once in a while you will do everything
perfectly (I am not in that class of casters) and your jaw drops as the
shooting head rips out running line and goes way, way out there.
Repeatability is the problem. ;)
Most shooting heads are matched to rods in the 7 wt. or heavier area. I
just happen to like lighter outfits when fishing stillwater, again due to
the splash the heavier heads make. If your fish don't spook or don't care,
and you need more distance, then a shooting head matched to a heavier rod
would be the way to go.
Disadvantages: shooting head casts are rarely graceful looking. The heads
are heavy and make a commotion when they hit the water. While you are
learning your shooting head timing, you will tend to drive a pile of line
and leader that lands in a heap rather than laying out nicely on the water.
Timing is more difficult than casting with regular fly lines.
*Where do you get them, and are some brands better than others*?
All major line manufacturers make shooting heads. However, the best way to
start may be to get a WF line a couple of line weights over your normal
line, cut off the head at the point where the line goes level after the
head, put a braided nylon loop on that and attach it to a level running
line. I would also trim off about three feet of line off the front end of
your homebrew shooting head. Often you or your friends will have an unneeded
line you can cut and practice with. That will at least give you a feel for
a shooting head, and who knows, may balance out perfectly and become your
first shooting head.
*Are they primarily made to use as a sinking line, or can they be used dry
as well? *
The easiest to use running/shooting line almost is a thin diameter floating
line. You can use the level portion of an old fly line for starters, but
manufacturers have come up with some really sexy running lines for steelhead
and surf fisherman. One of my favorites is a Varivas running line. It's
very narrow, limp, slick and has air chambers running through the core of
the line. Manufacturers do make monofilament running lines, but I wouldn't
recommend them for novices.
The shooting head can be either a floater or a sinker. A sinker turns the
line into a sink tip. The problem with sinking shooting heads is dredging
them out of the water enough that you can start a cast. Easier said than
done. I would tend to start with a floating shooting head and use a
weighted fly to get it down in a stillwater situation, or if you are a split
shot guy, that technique will work, though a bit jerky.
*Can you switch heads for different purposes? How far should a good caster
be able to cast one?*
Heads come in various weights, tapers, sinking, floating etc. Start with a
floater, IMO.
My favorite use of a shooting head is with a 11' TFO 5 wt. switch rod. I
can roll cast with that combination further than I can overhead cast a
regular 5 wt. Using a regular rod, I would say an average caster can hit
60' without much trouble, and anything beyond that depends on gear, skill
and practice. It really is NOT an advantage to be able to cast much further
than that, because then hook setting becomes a problem. Can you hook set a
nymph 80 feet away reliably?
HTH,
Wes Wada
Bend, Oregon
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