Ok once leaking they keep leaking. Any capacitor type will work as long as
the value is correct like 47uf and such. SMD come off pretty easy and again
any capacitor type can go in. I use cheap radials myself as SMDs take extra
practice and a steady hand to get correct. I like being able to see the pads
to make sure i didnt connect the area with soulder. It all depends on price,
preference and length of time you want it to last. Again if price is an issue
radials are pretty cheap.
From: wes...@megley.com
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Mac LC/LCII/etc Capacitor Replacement
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2013 13:42:56 -0500
Finally picked up an
original Mac LC recently...and have a number of other older related Mac's
too...several LCII's, an LC475, a IIci, and I think a IIcx...plus some newer
power mac/G3's I snagged cheap from the local recycling place. :-)
At any rate...I was just looking more closely at the LC, and it clearly has
leaked gunk out of the capacitors...as folks here seemed to indicate was nearly
guaranteed to happen. :-( So...I probably need to re-cap that
one and at least some of the others sooner than later...
I guess the first
question would be...if they are just sitting around not being used, are the
caps
leaking more? Or does it pretty much only happen when the machine is
powered on? Some of these I haven't powered on in
years...
Next question...are
all of them SMD surface-mount caps? That is what it is looking like from
browsing around online a bit... I've replaced a good number of capacitors
in things, but have never worked with surface-mount capacitors. Any tips
on how to do this successfully? I found one page that showed how to cut
the top off, lift off then bottom, then snap the bottom plastic piece in two
and
take it out, then desolder the leads...looks like a good way to get them off
anyway. Then of course the next question is how to re-install!
Anyway...any tips folks could provide would be appreciated!
And for cleaning up
the leftover leaked stuff...how should that be cleaned? Q-tip with rubbing
alcohol good enough? Or is it safe to just leave it
alone?
And lastly...what
should I replace them with? One place was indicating that tantalum was a
better option that electrolytic...any reason not to go that route?
Thoughts? And where should I buy them? I've been getting
electrolytics for through-hole soldering off of ebay from various
sources...making sure to get good ones of course...
Thanks,
Wesley
--
--
-
You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs group.
The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml and our
netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml
To post to this group, send email to vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
To leave this group, send email to vintage-macs+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs
Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
Vintage Macs group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to vintage-macs+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
--
--
-
You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs group.
The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml and our
netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml
To post to this group, send email to vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
To leave this group, send email to vintage-macs+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/vintage-macs
Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
Vintage Macs group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to vintage-macs+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
