Re: Mac Classic boot problem

[Brian Marstella]

One thing I did to get better with my "standard" soldering equipment on smd 
stuff was to order some cheap boards from eBay and then use YouTube videos. 
You have to look out as some of the videos are pretty bad, but if you've 
soldered much, you can tell who has a decent technique that works and who 
is horrible. I think Dave from EEVlog has a tutorial vid on smd soldering. 
IIRC, I bought about 10 boards and an assortment of components for about 
$25; they weren't good for anything other than practice which was the 
reason things were so cheap. However, it kept me from damaging good boards.

On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 1:04:42 PM UTC-5, Stephen Collins wrote:
>
> Hmm, I was afraid that would be the recommendation. I'm comfortable with 
> soldering through-hole mounted stuff but everything (except cpu) here is 
> surface mounted. Any links to a guide on this?
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 11:36:17 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote:
>>
>>
>> > On Mar 2, 2016, at 9:00 AM, Stephen Collins  
>> wrote: 
>> > 
>> > I cleaned the internals and system board using a can of compressed air, 
>> but so far no water or chemicals. What should I do next? 
>>
>> Recap the logic board. If it’s never had the capacitors replaced, it 
>> needs it. No question. 
>>
>> - Dylan
>
>

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Re: Retr0brite???

[Brian Marstella]

I've heard that spray bottles and soaked cloths can both be tough to get 
even coatings on the unit. Also, it's easy to miss corners and parts of 
bezels. Best results I've heard of are nearly always related to dunking 
methods, even if only 1 surface at a time is dunked and allowed to cure. 
Time consuming but pretty effective.

On Sunday, March 16, 2014 4:28:21 PM UTC-4, Chris Tofu wrote:



 What about just carefully draping the item with old cloth and soaking 
 that. Resoak as needed? 

 -- 
 On Sun, Mar 16, 2014 12:34 PM PDT Jordan Utolia wrote: 

 The dunk method is what I'd recommend if you have a LOT of stuff to 
 cover. 
 You can also get UV lamps and toss the whole shebang in your garage 
 overnight. 
  
 Here's an even easier method: 
  
 1.) Get a spray bottle, 1L size. 
 2.) Get some Oxy-product. I went to a laundromat and paid 75c for a small 
 packet of Oxy-something. (Didn't need or want a large quantity of it.) 
 Get 
 two bottles of regular H2O2 hydrogen peroxide (two liters total). 
 3.) Pour a liter of H202 into a sauce pan and get it to about 40 or 50 
 degrees C. (This helps dissolve the solute better. 40 deg C is 104 F, 50 
 deg C is about 120 F.) 
 4.) For each liter of hydrogen peroxide, add 5ml (about teaspoon) of 
 Oxy-product. Shake vigorously for about five minutes. 
 5.) Place the plastic product to be blasted outside. Full sun required. 
 Use 
 your sprayer to spray the unit about once every 30 to 45 seconds. 
 Essentially, keep it wet all the time. Even better, grab a book and a 
 chair, prop yourself up in the shade within range of the sprayer, and 
 just 
 go to town. If you want to go big-scale, then just get one of those 
 pesticide dispensers that your pour in water and 
 pesticide/herbicide/whatever. Pour in the proper mixture of H202, shake 
 it 
 all well (so there is no particulate matter on the bottom), pressurize 
 the 
 container, and then all you have to do is pull the trigger. 
  
 I did a SE/30 back, faceplate, M1106 keyboard and mouse with this method 
 and it came out great.   
  
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Re: Mac SE

[Brian Marstella]

Hi, Jeff,

You make a good point. Drilling the head off is probably the way to go. I 
would get some painter's blue tape and solidly tape a piece of parchment 
paper or other thick media over every possible opening of the case prior to 
starting. The metal shavings cause terrific headaches once they get into 
the case. Also, you might consider having someone hold the case firmly in 
case the bit suddenly locks into the screw head. That will help prevent the 
machine from flying off your table. Speaking from experience on this one.

Good luck!

BTW, I tried Googling a material similar to the above and haven't found it 
yet. If I come across it, though, I'll be sure to post. Sounds like a nice 
thing to have on the shelf and ready to go in the shop area.

On Friday, May 4, 2012 12:57:51 PM UTC-4, Jeff Walther wrote:



 On May 3, 10:26 am, Abel Ortiz Monasterio abel.or...@gmail.com 
 wrote: 
  I've seen mechanics tap them with a drill I don't know if you can get a 
 bit 
  long enough 

 There are definitely drill bits long enough available at the hardware 
 store.  I have some 1/8 drill bits that are 10 - 12 long and I got 
 them at Home Depot or Lowes.  I forget why, but I needed them when I 
 was wiring my house with 1/2 mile of network cable. 

 While the official method of removing a stripped screw/bolt is to 
 drill a hole in the bolt's shaft, tap the hole, and use a reverse 
 threaded tap to turn the bolt out, I have found that simply drilling 
 the head off of the bolt is usually sufficient, thus removing the two 
 difficult parts of the operation. 

 Drilling a hole in the narrow screw shaft is usually very 
 challenging.  Don't need to do that if you're just drilling the head 
 off.   Getting the reverse tap to work and not break is usually 
 challenging.  No need to do that either. 

 Additionally, if you're just drilling the head off the screw, you can 
 use a much thicker drill bit, because you're not trying to drive it 
 down the center of the screw shaft.  Just don't drill too far. 

 That last bit will be challenging with the screw deep in the Mac's 
 handle.  You want to drill through the screw head just until you reach 
 the screw shaft.  If you're using a bit which is slightly wider than 
 the screw shaft, this will cause the screw head to separate from the 
 screw shaft, and then the screw won't be holding the Mac together any 
 more. 

 After you get the head off the screw, the screw will no longer hold 
 the mac (or other object) together.  Disassemble it.  Once it is 
 disassembled, there should be 1/4 or so of the screw shaft sticking 
 out of the hole, which was previously passing through the removed 
 component. 

 You can just grab this exposed 1/4 with a channel lock pliers and 
 turn it out.  With the object disassembled, the tension will be off of 
 the screw and chances are, you can turn it out easily with your 
 fingers, without a channel lock. 

 Or you can hack saw a groove in the end of the shaft, and use a flat 
 head screwdriver to turn it out, if it is really stuck (someone used 
 lok-tite, e.g.).

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Re: Mac SE

[Brian Marstella]

That might be the easiest way to go. The last screw remover that I bought 
with a long shank cost quite a bit of money and required drilling a hole 
into the head of the screw. I no longer have an SE but it seems that my 
SE/30 had a recess about 4 to 6 inches deep for some of the screws. The 
glue idea might work if there's still some surface left for it to grab and 
the screw isn't too tight. Good luck!

On Thursday, May 3, 2012 12:45:52 PM UTC-4, Jpoliti wrote:

 Thanks Abel. 

 I tried a rubber band pressed into the screw by the screwdriver and 
 was able to free one of the screws. I was thinking about putting crazy 
 glue to the tip of the screwdriver and then letting it set up. That 
 may give me enough grip to remove the screw. 


 On May 3, 11:26 am, Abel Ortiz Monasterio abel.or...@gmail.com 
 wrote: 
  
  I've seen mechanics tap them with a drill I don't know if you can get a 
 bit 
  long enough 

  
  
  On Thursday, May 3, 2012, Jpoliti wrote: 
  
   Hi group. 
  
   I have an old Mac SE FDHD with some sort of video card installed. I'd 
   like to open it up to determine what the card is. I am trying to take 
   the case off the back and it appears that the screws at the top of the 
   case are stripped out, so I can't get any traction with my torx 
   screwdriver tool. Any ideas about how to get the screws loose? I can't 
   be the first person with a compact Mac to which this has happened. 
  
   Thanks. 


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