We use our PCs pretty much every day, but a worryingly large amount of that time is spent troubleshooting computing headaches. Rick Broida and Rosemary Hattersley address some of the most frustrating problems a PC user can face
Here's a poser for you: when was the last time you went a whole day without touching your computer? Access to the web is now viewed as a right, not a privilege, and the provision of broadband-grade internet access is a national priority - but where would either of these be without the humble PC? Whether it's serving up web pages, music, photos, TV and videos or helping you make sense of the household accounts, the personal computer is an invaluable tool and an established source of entertainment. Given its myriad roles and boundless capabilities, it's little wonder that this complex invention doesn't always perform exactly the way it should. In fact, the surprise is that PCs don't go wrong more often. When things do go awry, you often write or email to tell us, sometimes with an anecdote about misbehaving components or a tale of woe about how hard it is to get things fixed. Many times, it's because you're keen to roll up your sleeves and try to fix things yourself, and need some pointers. Each month we bring you several pages of Helproom Q&As - queries and taxing problems you've written in to tell us about in the hope that we can help resolve them. We print both the query and our suggested fixes in the belief that issues afflicting one reader are highly likely to have puzzled or aggrieved others too. Some are very specific issues: one reader recently found his laptop picking up the frequency of American overseas radio broadcasts. Other queries, however, are all too familiar. Our inbox and our online forums are certainly never short of pleas for help or commentary about the quirks of day-to-day computing. Every so often, we like to take a step back and see what sort of computing issues are causing the biggest headaches, and what we can do to alleviate them. Performance Some of the most troublesome computing issues rear their heads when you first switch on your PC. Whether the power button elicits no response or you get a screen full of error messages once you've booted into Windows, there's nothing worse than everything going wrong before you even begin. Failure to launch First off, let's look at why a PC might not start up in the first place. If you can't hear the hard drive spinning or the fan whirring into life when you press the power button, the chances are the power supply unit (PSU) has gone west and needs to be replaced. Before you rush out and buy a replacement, though, check it's not the electrical socket at fault as it's possible you've fused it. Plug in a device you know works to rule this out. If you've recently upgraded to a more powerful graphics card, it's likely it draws far more power than its predecessor, in which case you'll certainly need to replace the PSU. For advice on which, see our group test and buying advice at tinyurl.com/PSUtest. If the PC sounds as though it's going to power up but nothing appears onscreen, check that the monitor is properly connected and that it works. Try an alternative power cable or connecting cable. If the screen works but Windows doesn't complete its boot-up routine, you probably need to replace the Cmos battery. Consult the motherboard maker's website for advice on how to reset its jumpers. Other potential culprits include the graphics card and a faulty RAM module. The free MemTest86 ( memtest86.com) will help you establish whether the latter is the case. In most cases, though, Windows or a conflicting piece of code are more likely to prevent your PC booting up. Try restarting your PC and booting into Safe Mode. Slow startups We've covered the issue of unacceptably slow startups many times before. While Vista users have largely got used to the tortoise-like progress of their shiny operating system (OS) as it labours into view, Microsoft bloat isn't necessarily at the heart of every slow startup. The programs you install and the applets intended to improve your web experience are just as likely to be at fault. The secret is to deactivate those that don't need to launch the moment Windows fires up. To see what's set to load when you boost up your PC, go to Start, All Programs, Startup in XP. To delete a non-essential item from this folder, right-click it and choose Delete. To get rid of it entirely, go to Add/Remove Programs. Another option: in Vista or Windows 7 go to Start, Run, type msconfig and press Enter. Click on the Startup tab and untick any unwanted programs. If you merely want to postpone some apps auto-starting, you need Startup Delayer ( bit.ly/1FCBg7). This free app gives you control over which program or service loads and in which order, so they aren't clamouring for the same processor cycles. Adjust the slider next to each item to set how long Windows should wait before loading it. Untidy system tray or Start menu Telltale signs of a clogged-up system include a system tray full of icons and regular notifications emanating from it, plus a Start menu full of apps with unfamiliar names. Microsoft has recognised the extent to which PC annoyances stem from the system tray or Start menu. Windows 7 replaces the Quick Launch function with a Jump List that lets you preview documents and programs and fire up frequently used items on demand, leaving the Start menu uncluttered. Get rid of ghost drivers If your PC is more than a couple of years old, it's possible that Windows is loading up drivers from hardware you no longer use - scanners, printers or external hard drives you've long since retired. To check whether this is the case and to prevent it happening, go to Device Manager and press Windows, R to open the Run box, type cmd then hit Enter. At the command prompt, type set devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1 a display all services and drivers that load. Press Windows, R again, type devmgmt.msc, then hit Enter. In the Device Manager window, choose View, Show Hidden Devices. Click the plus sign next to each branch to examine the drivers. Devices that aren't connected appear with a pale version of the icon. If you come across a device you no longer use, right-click it and choose Uninstall. Maximise performance Once you've banished hanger-on apps, you can assess whether your PC is fulfilling its potential. If it's a Vista or Windows 7 machine, you'll be able to get a ready idea of how well it's doing by going to the Windows Experience Index screen: go to Control Panel and type experience into the search field, then click either option that appears. This screen rates general, graphics and network connection performance against a database of other computers running the same OS, and identifies areas of your hardware setup for possible improvement. For a more in-depth look at how well your PC is working, our own diagnostic tool, PC Performance Monitor ( bit.ly/3IDbU9) is worth trying. You need to be logged in to the PC Advisor website and set aside a few minutes for the tool to make its assessment. Some of the most effective tools to ratchet up performance involve Registry tweaks and cleaners, although regularly archiving and offloading files from your primary hard drive and ensuring you've got enough RAM will also help. Regular readers of our Helproom pages will be familiar with CCleaner, a useful utility that cleans up your PC while removing outdated Registry entries. Other effective tools include Uniblue RegistryBooster 2010, reviewed at tinyurl.com/uni2010. Resolve startup error messages Here's a fun way to start the day. You fire up your PC and see an Internet Explorer window that declares: 'Cannot find "File:///". Make sure the path or Internet address is correct.' Stuff like that can be seriously annoying; one reader was aggravated enough to send us an email about it. We reckon Windows was looking in vain for a leftover file related to a recent installation or uninstallation. A startup monitor tool shows everything attempting to run during the boot process so that you can determine which IE-related item is the offender. Run the free utility Autoruns ( bit.ly/s7 grams 3Q), click the Logon tab and look for entries that point to iexplore.exe. If you find one, untick its box and reboot. Alternatively, Windows' built-in MSconfig utility may come to your aid. Click the Startup tab and check the Command column for entries containing iexplore.exe. Deselect any you find, press ok and reboot your PC. Shut down - don't standby If the power button light continues to blink even after you've shut down your computer, it's likely to have gone into standby mode rather than fully powering down. There are two easy ways to address this. First, you can click the Start button, move the cursor over the arrow at the bottom-righthand corner of the Start menu and click Shut Down. (The power button to the right of the search box in Vista is actually a standby button.) The second option is to change the function of your laptop's power button so it actually shuts down Windows. In Vista, click Start, type power, and click Power Options. Now click 'Choose what the power buttons do' and make the necessary changes. Click 'Save changes' to implement them. Fix unwanted Windows reboots You step away from the PC for a while and, when you come back, all your windows and work are gone. Why? Because Windows downloaded some updates and took it upon itself to reboot without your permission. Thankfully, the fix is very easy. In Vista, click Start, type Windows Update and press Enter, then click the Change Settings option on the left. In XP, head to the Control Panel and seek out Windows Update. Clicking on this takes you to a browser page where you can check for available updates and specify how and, crucially, when these are applied. Press Custom and adjust what is automatically installed. The box on the right lets you specify a time of day for updates to be applied, such as 3am. Depending on the options you've selected, Windows may still nag you about installing updates, but at least it won't reboot without permission. Hardware fixes Due to the modular and customisable nature of PCs, the precise components that control the logic board, processor, graphics and visual output will differ for almost every person reading this guide. Two PCs with the same product code may have subtle differences - a Sapphire ATI Radeon graphics card rather than a Gigabyte one, for example. And once you've taken possession of your PC, you load it up with software and files, and switch the keyboard and mouse for ones you find more comfortable or visually appealing. These accumulated alterations make your PC unique. That's why it's useful to take an inventory of precisely what's on your PC. The Belarc Advisor from belarc.com does just this; it also lists outdated drivers and hotfixes you've skipped. If you missed our guide to firmware updates, read it at bit.ly/PiG5I. Common complaints Some hardware issues are common for all products of that type. For example, diagnosing a dodgy DVD drive or establishing whether your hard drive is about to die a death is fairly straightforward, regardless of its brand. In fact, the most common complaint at PC Advisor Towers across Macs, PCs, laptops and desktop machines of differing brands and proximity to retirement is that the DVD drive no longer works. In a surprising number of cases, updating the driver for the drive in question is the standard fix. You'll need to know the make and model number, which is where that Belarc tool we mentioned comes in. It's also worth running a web search for the model in question, as some drives have known problems that mean you're better off replacing the drive than updating it. You should also check whether Windows thinks the drive is working correctly by going to My Computer, looking for the drive's icon and right-clicking to establish its status. If Windows says the drive is working properly, the discs you're trying to read or burn may be faulty or of a type the PC can't read. If, however, your DVD drive is no longer being recognised by Windows, you may need to update the Bios. You should also establish whether it's seen by the Cmos - if not, the connecting cable may have come loose, causing it to be recognised no longer. Loose components or connections And it's not just cables that come loose: it's not uncommon for PC components to drop out of your arsenal. With new items such as upgraded RAM and graphics cards, it's one of the first things you should check. But before you unplug the computer and start investigating its innards, ground yourself by touching metal. Move the PC to an uncarpeted area before opening the case. An antistatic wrist strap is also a good idea. Open the case and identify the problem part, checking for anything that looks as though it may be amiss. If that new graphics card is sitting at an odd angle, for example, it's unlikely to be working the way it should. To check PCI cards, unscrew the fixings on the side of the PC chassis for each one in turn, then lift it straight out of its slot. In the case of a graphics card, there's probably a plastic release tab or retaining lever. Handle the card by its edges only. Now clear the slot it fits in before pushing the card straight back in. It should slide down without any rocking, landing with a satisfying thunk. Similar reseating advice applies to RAM modules. Most motherboards release their RAM modules if you pull apart levers on the modules' edges. Lift the RAM straight up and out, leaving the levers in the open position. Reinsert the RAM module by pushing it straight down, again without rocking. The levers will snap to their closed position. Be gentle; don't force any PC parts. Close the case and try rebooting the PC. If it still won't start, open it again, then unplug and reconnect all the internal cables. Finally, try connecting only the most basic cards and components, such as the original RAM. If this works, gradually reinstall parts to establish what's malfunctioning. Unclog your ports Over time, ports on your electronic equipment can get clogged with dust and other debris. If you're having trouble getting USB or other devices to work with your PC, cleaning any grime from the connecting ports is a sound first step. Turn off your PC. If you can see the port is severely clogged, try a toothpick to clean out the gunk. Be gentle, though: Ethernet, serial and other connections rely on fragile pins, so try to move in and out on the same path instead of swishing around. For less sticky situations, use a can of compressed air (actually pressurised gases) to blast out loose bits. You should be able to get hold of one of these at Maplins or another hardware or computer shop for less than ukp10. This works best if you fire at the target in short bursts. Complete the cleaning process with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or electronics cleaner. Leave the device turned off for a few hours to dry. Unstick a sticky keyboard Another recommended spring-cleaning task is to de-gunk your keyboard; if you munch toast while scanning online news headlines, there's sure to be evidence in your keyboard. Cleaning your keyboard may not prevent the PC going wrong, but it will definitely make for a healthier working environment. Spillage clean-ups The other big issue affecting computer keyboards is the classic spill. As we all know, liquid and electronics aren't intended to mix. If you do have an accident, act promptly. Power down the PC, unplug it from the mains and disconnect the keyboard. Turn it upside down on a draining board or suitable surface. If we're talking about a laptop rather than a desktop PC, time is even more critical. Conductive liquids cause most of the initial damage. Immediately unplug the laptop and pull out the battery. Don't bother closing programs or saving data. Disconnect any hard drives and remove media cards. Carefully turn over the laptop, ensuring the liquid doesn't go anywhere near the screen. You want to remove as much liquid as possible, but you need to ensure it doesn't spread to other parts of the machine. If possible and necessary, remove more parts. Unscrew the outer case and remove the plastic shell to expose the internal circuits. Disassemble parts even further, separating individual components to help them dry. Do as much of this as you are comfortable with. A good local laptop repair shop may be able to offer yet more help, but your speedy actions will make the most difference. Once the laptop has dried out a bit, you may need to clean the affected parts with electronics circuit cleaner. You won't need to do this if you only spilt a few drops of water. If the spill was more than 100 millilitres or something sticky or corrosive, grab the circuit cleaner and set to work with rubber gloves in a ventilated area. Now wait for your system to dry. Leave the laptop disassembled or open and upside down for a couple of days. Wait even longer if possible. Do not be tempted to use a hair dryer to speed up the process. Instead, leave the laptop in a warm room, next to a window sill or in another dry location. Reassemble the laptop and turn it back on. If the keys are sticky, turn the system off and disassemble the keyboard for fine cleaning. If the laptop won't turn on, your hard drive may still work. Remove the drive, put it in another case or hook it up to an adaptor, and connect it to a different PC. Your last resort is a data-recovery service such as Ontrack (ontrack.co.uk). Blow away the cobwebs Dust is the enemy of your PC, since grime can clog the fans that keep internal parts cool and restricted airflow can cause them to overheat. A regular spring-clean is a good preventative move. Shut everything down and unplug all cables. Touch a metal part of the case and unplug the power cable to discharge any potential static externally, instead of damaging electrically sensitive components. Wear shoes and work in an uncarpeted room. You may also want to place a layer of rubber (such as mouse pads) between the PC and your worktable. Wear an antistatic bracelet, and connect it to a metal part of the chassis.Open the PC case to clear out any grime. Many cases have side doors held in place by a single Phillips-head screw or a thumbscrew; consult your manual for specific directions. Pull out any loose obstructions. Now use a can of air to blast anything else away and out of the PC. Blow grime up and out of the case if possible, but focus your attention on clearing clogs at vented areas. Blow through gratings, and blow from inside the PC, out through the power supply's fan, until you no longer see any dirt being cleared away. While you're inside, make sure that internal cables are clear of the vents. Use cable ties to fix them to the sides. Reclose the case, and reconnect everything.To slow future dirt accumulation, keep your PC off the floor, since that's where most grime originates. Repeat the cleaning process annually, especially if you have pets. Unstick a stuck pixel LCD monitors contain millions of pixels, each composed of three sub-pixels: red, blue and green. When all three are on, a pixel looks white. Other combinations create other colours. A pixel can become stuck showing only one hue. But you can fix this. Determine whether the pixel is just stuck or completely dead. If it shows only black, it's probably inoperable. If it shows a solid, it may simply be stuck and you may be able to 'shock' it back into operation.Spray your screen with a few blasts of compressed air, then wipe it with a scratch-free cloth and screen cleaner. Check your PC is outputting in your LCD's native resolution so you can identify pixels more easily. Open Start, Control Panel, Display, click the Settings tab and adjust the resolution. Install UDPixel (udpix.free.fr/) to identify and fix the problem (you'll need to grab the .NET framework from bit.ly/4pzvTf). In UDPixel, increase the Run cycle option to 4 secs and click Run cycle. The display will cycle through red, green, blue, black, white and yellow. A stuck pixel should be visible against every hue but the one it's stuck in; unchanging dots are problem areas.Click Start and a small, 5x5-pixel box will appear. Reposition the box around the stuck pixel, then wait 15 to 20 mins. Click Reset to turn it off. Repeat the colour cycle to see whether the pixel has cleared.If the problem persists, check your warranty. If you can't get a replacement, try applying direct pressure - it's been known to salvage a few screens. Wrap the tip of a PDA stylus or similar object in a scratch-free cloth, then use UDPixel to find the problem.Align the stylus directly over the pixel. Turn off the screen and gently apply pressure for 5 to 10 secs. Alternatively, try wrapping the rounded, plastic end of a marker pen in a scratch-free cloth and gently tapping the afflicted area a few times. Compatibility One of the biggest headaches for PC users updating their machines - especially if they're making the move from one operating system to another - is ensuring they can still run the programs they depend on. >From XP to Vista A major criticism of Windows Vista when it launched was that too little had been done to ensure software and hardware written for Windows XP would be able to run on the new version of the OS. While the lack of signatures verifying compatibility and giving the Microsoft blessing was understandable, many upgraders felt the sheer number of programs that simply didn't work in Vista was unforgivable. Most compatibility issues were eventually ironed out, usually by third-party software makers writing updated drivers for their hardware. Microsoft also introduced a Compatibility Mode for Vista for any programs that couldn't natively run under this version of Windows. If you've encountered a program that you can't use in Vista, go to Control Panel and click the Programs tab. Choose 'Use an older program with this version of Windows' and follow the instructions in the wizard. In some cases, you can change the way an installed program runs by right-clicking on its icon to bring up its Properties dialog box. Choose Compatibility to make it use the Compatibility Mode. The major exception to all this good news concerns games. If you've got a cupboard bursting with games you've enjoyed playing on your XP machine, and want to know whether they're likely to run under Windows 7, we suggest you Google each game that's important to you. If a game runs in Vista then it should be fine in Windows 7, but there are plenty of instances of XP games not running in Vista. >From XP to Windows 7 Since upgrading from XP to Windows 7 involves an 'advanced' (complete, in other words) reinstallation of Windows rather than an incremental or in-place one (which you can perform when upgrading from Vista), you want to be sure of what will run before you make the upgrade. If you've got a massive library of software you can't replace or replicate without major expense, dual-booting your PC may be the best bet. You'll need to use a partitioning tool such as PartitionMagic for XP (Vista has its own) and an ISO creation tool such as Imgburn. You'll need to make a comprehensive system, files and settings backup. Given the vast storage on today's PCs, however, it's a very workable option. Unfortunately, Microsoft has elected not to provide an XP Compatibility Mode for consumers buying the newest version of Windows. You need to have the Professional Edition or Ultimate Edition of Windows 7 if you want to be able to continue using XP programs that wouldn't otherwise work in Vista or Windows 7. Type compatibility into the search box on the Start menu to bring up the Program Compatibility tool. UsingG PERIeriPHERherALSs with 7 Windows Vista and Windows 7 share almost identical code, so you shouldn't have problems with any peripheral you were successfully using under the older OS in the new one. However, it's always worth checking for driver updates if you're having issues with a peripheral. In fact, Windows 7 users can look forward to far better hardware management and comprehensive management and status tools, thanks to a new feature known as Device Stage. Microsoft made the code for this available to hardware manufacturers well in advance of Windows 7's launch so they could write apps and additional features for when their devices are plugged into a Windows 7 PC. Keep safe online Web access is something we all take for granted - an entire working day can depend on it, while our social lives and entertainment needs are increasingly served by our ability to chat, connect and plan using the web. But being connected - to other devices and to the web - can bring with it some degree of danger, which explains the need for antivirus apps and the preventative measures Microsoft introduced in the form of UAC (User Account Control). The latter proved a classic case of the cure being worse than the illness, but there are ways to take back control of your PC without switching off UAC completely. And in Windows 7, more granular controls and a 'trusted' group of networked printers, PCs and other devices means you can create HomeGroups, allowing you to log in and connect with other members without further ado. If only non-Windows 7 PCs could join in. Tame UAC (but keep its benefits) Microsoft has done much to improve the security of its desktop operating system in the past five years, but it took until Windows XP Service Pack 2 for it to start getting it right. Unfortunately, in Windows Vista it went too far the other way, with the draconian UAC actively preventing you from installing programs or performing certain actions without confirming that you meant to. Almost everything you try to do in Windows Vista results in a warning message advising you against it, or telling you to think carefully before proceeding. Sometimes UAC pops up a warning even though it's a Microsoft app or a Windows action that prompted it to leap into defensive action. TweakVI, an invaluable set of tweaking tools for Windows Vista users, offers ways of taming UAC so it takes a more laid-back approach. Use this rather than switching off UAC completely, since this would negate the benefits of having it at all. In Windows 7, you can ensure you rarely see the UAC warning box. Go to Start, Control Panel and bring up the Action Center (Windows 7's equivalent of the Security Center). Click Security to adjust UAC's behaviour. The slider bar allows you to have UAC leap in only if it detects an action you didn't deliberately initiate. On the subject of the Action Center, it's worth pointing out that this central location also provides a helpful overview of your firewall and other security apps. Use it to manage notifications and turn off anything that's bugging you in the taskbar. To do this, go to the Windows 7 Start menu, type Action, click the Action Center option and, under the Settings menu, deselect the notifications relating to those maintenance and security tasks that you don't wish to be nagged about. Click ok to apply the changes. Banish fake security apps The past 18 months have seen a rash of fake security programs doing the rounds. These offer to check your PC for spyware and other malware of one kind or another, magically find some (having installed their own malware in the form of a Trojan) and then demand money to 'upgrade' to the full version of the supposed security program. The situation was exacerbated by scammers posting cogent-sounding online reviews, purportedly written by respected magazines and websites, that served to make their spurious products sound legitimate. In fact, it's increasingly hard to tell whether an antivirus program is to be trusted, which is why so many readers and forum members have been in touch asking how on earth they can get rid of the likes of Antivirus 2009 and Total Security 2009. In the case of Antivirus 2009, the most successful and prevalent of the fake antivirus programs, you could try an antispyware program such as the well-known Spybot Search & Destroy ( spybot.com) or run Microsoft Security Essentials. If you can't get rid of the unwanted app using these, try the $39 XoftSpySE (download it from tinyurl.com/pareto). You should first use the Add/Remove Programs tool in XP (known as Uninstall Programs in Vista or Windows 7), then restart the computer in Safe Mode - press F8 when the boot screen appears. >From here you should be able to run the antispyware program and have it excise any remaining nasties. Defuse antivirus conflicts Perhaps because there have been so many stories of Trojans, worms and viruses, some people have tried to double up on their defences by installing more than one security program - but this is dangerous. You can have a firewall and an antispyware program running alongside an antivirus program, but you shouldn't attempt to have more than one of each product type. In the case of antivirus applications, they will compete for attention and you may end up in an endless cycle of, say, Norton trying to prevent Trend Micro running. Usually, one app will identify the other as possible malware and quarantine it, effectively neutralising its ability to act. You think your PC is doubly protected, while all the while battle is raging and other unusual activity of a more sinister kind is being missed. As with the advice related to fake AV apps, a visit to Safe Mode is required, since the standard method of uninstalling and reverting to the relevant System Restore point may be seen by the security apps as attempts to circumvent their work. Check carefully for remains of the app - very often they will try to autoload at startup and may have additional shortcut entries in the Startup menu. You need to clear your PC of these too. Several restarts may be required before you've completed the clearout process. Ensure you rescan your PC when you've finished and download any updates to the antivirus software you decided to keep. A PC's antivirus program is useless unless it's up to date - and updates can be daily or even more frequent. Get better connected The final two bugbears we'll address in this feature concern connectivity: the web sort and the network sort. The first one is an all-too-common scenario - one minute you're surfing the web, the next you have no connection. While it's possible the internet or your ISP has gone down, it's much more likely that you need to release your current IP address and acquire a new one. The process for re-establishing your web connection is the same for all versions of Windows. Click Start, Run and type cmd in XP or simply type cmd into the Search box in Vista or Windows 7. When the command prompt appears, type ipconfig to bring up the current IP address, subnet mask and default gateway. You need to flush out the current IP address. Type ipconfig/release to instruct the DCHP server to forget the details it holds. Type ipconfig/renew to acquire a new dynamic IP address and get back online. Incidentally, if you suddenly find yourself unceremoniously dumped offline on your smartphone, a similar principle applies. Go to the Settings menu in your iPhone or other Wi-Fi-enabled handset, instruct the device to 'forget this network', toggle the Wi-Fi off and then on again if you wish to track down an alternative network. This can be particularly useful in locations where there's a commercial Wi-Fi hotspot vying for your business and knocking out the 3G connection you were already enjoying. To unsubscribe send a message to accessindia-requ...@accessindia.org.in with the subject unsubscribe. To change your subscription to digest mode or make any other changes, please visit the list home page at http://accessindia.org.in/mailman/listinfo/accessindia_accessindia.org.in
