I'm sure this unit hardly qualifies as audiophile to some, but I was
wondering if anyone has any feedback on this particular item. Right
now, I'm using ADCOM components that are nearing 20 years in age. From
time-to-time, I get noise due to aging mechanical contacts in the
source switch.
By
Perhaps a little of both?
If you can solder, get a 5V-3A linear. The Condor Medical Grade is only
$10 more than the standard Condor or PowerOne:
http://tinyurl.com/o6had
And add a power entry inlet/filter/fuse module:
http://www.schaffner.com/components/en/product/productL22.asp (for
I like the fact that it's stereo :-) Here's a nice review:
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/frr.pl?ramps1080742540openflup114#11
The last reply was interesting, comparing the Denon to some older
receivers.
--
Skunk
Skunk Wrote:
I like the fact that it's stereo :-) Here's a nice review:
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/frr.pl?ramps1080742540openflup114#11
The last reply was interesting, comparing the Denon to some older
receivers.
Yeah, I saw that one. At this point, I'm willing to sacrifice a little
Mikem53 Wrote:
I am building a PS for myself but I am having problems locating a
descent box to use. Was hoping jabberwockie would be kind enough to
share the part# and info on where we can get these enclosures... Many
thanks in advance
Take a look at the LMB Heeger #EAS-400
Here was my sub out jack when using the Sonic Impact t-amp:
http://forums.slimdevices.com/showpost.php?p=105051postcount=17
I figure it's about as non-audiophile as you can get! It seemed to work
ok with the sub level being controlled by SB remote, but I'm sure the
DENON would be more ideal.
Skunk Wrote:
Here was my sub out jack when using the Sonic Impact t-amp:
http://forums.slimdevices.com/showpost.php?p=105051postcount=17
I figure it's about as non-audiophile as you can get! It seemed to work
ok with the sub level being controlled by SB remote, but I'm sure the
DENON
? - I'd have said that y's are good for joining (especially in this
case) - they are less good for splitting - especially if the two pieces
of equipment have different impedance characteristics etc...they'll
interact in subtle ways...you really need some kind of a pad (active or
passive) to
Phil Leigh Wrote:
? - I'd have said that y's are good for joining (especially in this
case) - they are less good for splitting - especially if the two pieces
of equipment have different impedance characteristics etc...they'll
interact in subtle ways...you really need some kind of a pad
Phil Leigh wrote:
? - I'd have said that y's are good for joining (especially in this
case) - they are less good for splitting - especially if the two pieces
of equipment have different impedance characteristics etc...they'll
interact in subtle ways...you really need some kind of a pad (active
I ordered the perforated version at
http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=3 in the black textured
finish. I found an HB5-3 on ebay for $12 and I got a fused power
receptacle and DC power plug from Parts Express. I'm splicing an old
18AWG shielded computer cord for the DC and I have an
Further f/u on the Swan S200A's... apparently this last batch is
BURGUNDY, with piano black (and possibly other colors) available in the
future.
Upon further listening, I must say these speakers are INCREDIBLE...
even rivaling my Martin Logan mains for transparency and detail. They
also put
have you considered the Outlaw rr250?
--
joncourage
SlimServer Version: 6.5b1 - 6939 - Windows XP - EN - cp1252
Player Firmware Version: 41
SB3 Audio Note DAC 3.1x Sig Levinson 383 integrated Amphion
Argons
yes - sorry - got confused...of course s-n patch bays used a lot for
multing...(eg ducking)
signals should be combined through a T-pad or similar (wonder how many
mono switches just short the signal lines though...)
--
Phil Leigh
Skunk Wrote:
http://www.schaffner.com/components/en/product/productL22.asp[/url]
Can you tell me which inline filter is the best. I am still learning to
read the schematic of the filter.
Thanks
Rocky
--
rocky2889
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