On Tuesday (08/28/2018 at 08:22PM +0200), Mattis Lind wrote:
> Den tis 28 aug. 2018 kl 19:50 skrev Chris Elmquist :
>
> > On Tuesday (08/28/2018 at 11:25AM +0200), Mattis Lind via cctalk wrote:
> > > Den sön 26 aug. 2018 kl 09:26 skrev Paul Birkel via cctalk <
> > > cctalk@classiccmp.org>:
> > >
>
Den tis 28 aug. 2018 kl 19:50 skrev Chris Elmquist :
> On Tuesday (08/28/2018 at 11:25AM +0200), Mattis Lind via cctalk wrote:
> > Den sön 26 aug. 2018 kl 09:26 skrev Paul Birkel via cctalk <
> > cctalk@classiccmp.org>:
> >
> > > Which length band did you find worked best as a replacement?
> > >
>
On Tuesday (08/28/2018 at 11:25AM +0200), Mattis Lind via cctalk wrote:
> Den sön 26 aug. 2018 kl 09:26 skrev Paul Birkel via cctalk <
> cctalk@classiccmp.org>:
>
> > Which length band did you find worked best as a replacement?
> >
>
> I used the white three inch plastiband. Rik Bos told me that
>
> So, my guess was wrong there. I had _assumed_ that when doing a memory
> operation, the CPU started a cycle on both busses, to minimize the delay on
> the UNIBUS cycle if the MS11 on the FastBus didn't have that location. (I
> had
> previously checked, and there is an 'I have that location' sig
never, EVER use a drill. add more solder and keep heating the corroded
solder, it will eventually melt and mix with new solder.
using a drill will destroy the board.
Enviado do meu Tele-Movel
On Tue, Aug 28, 2018, 03:38 Marvin Johnston via cctalk <
cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote:
> Since I have a
Den sön 26 aug. 2018 kl 09:26 skrev Paul Birkel via cctalk <
cctalk@classiccmp.org>:
> Which length band did you find worked best as a replacement?
>
I used the white three inch plastiband. Rik Bos told me that the best way
is to heat the old band slightly. I used a SMD desoldering air gun which
