Well, I rarely use vinegar and much prefer diluted Muriatic Acid
(swimming pool acid to adjust pH), and have done that in this case.
FWIW, a hydrochloric acid based solution is what what many PCB shops
used to clean the tin-lead plating (used as an etch resist) before it
got heated and alloyed
Oh Marvin, you're on your right to disagree :) Thats why we're here, to
discuss, learn and teach.
The salt...well, the first step of reparing a leaked board is to wash it in
vinegar to neutralize salts/alkali and wash again with water+apropriate
detergent. If you haven't done this, you're not doin
Hi Alexandre,
I very much disagree with your NEVER use a drill comment and add more
solder w/heat for several reasons, valid at least for someone who knows
what they are doing.
First, the little information I could find on the solder corrosion
caused by leaky electrolytic capacitors suggeste
never, EVER use a drill. add more solder and keep heating the corroded
solder, it will eventually melt and mix with new solder.
using a drill will destroy the board.
Enviado do meu Tele-Movel
On Tue, Aug 28, 2018, 03:38 Marvin Johnston via cctalk <
cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote:
> Since I have a
Since I have at least four Model 100 and HX-20s, I've decided to just
replace all the aluminum electrolytics before repair becomes much more
difficult. So far, I see the project as fairly easy depending on how bad
the corrosion from the leaking caps is.
Is anyone interested in buying a kit or
