I have an engine and transmission from a 1970 Chevelle that I would like to put
into a 1964 Chevelle. I have the original motor frame mounts from the 1970
too. I was looking on Ground Up for the frame mounts for the 1964 and see a
conversion kit. Has anyone used this conversion kit? Or
The engine from the '70 is a 454 with a TH400 transmission
The '64 has no engine, no frame mounts.
The conversion kit is Ground Up kit AMC-103KIT
-Original Message-
From: Dale a396...@fidnet.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 11:04
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Great job, the firewall looks awesome!
I recognize that bracket for a hydraulic clutch... How well is that working
for you? Did you use a slave cylinder for the release or a hydraulic throwout
bearing? Do you mind sending me some pictures of the setup?
--Don
-Original Message-
Do you have a wiring schematic -or- would it help if you had one? What year
Chevelle do you have?
-Original Message-
From: rml...@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, February 1, 2010 17:02
To: dansolo...@msn.com, The Chevelle Mailing List
chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list]
Forgive me if it's a dumb question...did you try rotating the knob? I don't
know if 1970 had the dimmer built into the headlight switch perhaps it's
turned down to the lowest setting or the rheostat is burnt out?
Second, did you check for power at the fuse?
-Original Message-
From:
Oh I'm sorry, I misunderstood something somewhere...
For the fuel level, have you tried to measure the resistance directly from the
fuel tank sender using an ohmmeter?
-Original Message-
From: rml...@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, February 1, 2010 19:31
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
I would suggest disconnecting the tan fuel sender feed wire at the fuel tank.
Turn the key to RUN position and wait a few moments (some gauges are slow) with
the tan wire disconnected the fuel gauge should read past full. Then ground the
tan wire anywhere to the body and the gauge should read
After many months of work, the new GCP website has been launched! I'm looking
for anyone that would like to provide me with some feedback: Is it easy to
navigate, is it confusing, what is good, what is not...positive and negative
feedback is appreciated.
If you want to see anything past the
Nope, still don't have an answer.
Looks like the MOOG number is DS740 but it's not listed on the MOOG
site. I can get one fron RareParts #25795 but they are $180. It
would be so awesome if you could measure yours for me...
Kind regards,
--Don
Quoting Brad Waller b...@epage.com:
I agree, RareParts makes excellent products but I don't need one
for my car -- I need the measurments for the day job.
--Don
Quoting bad66chevelle...@aol.com:
Don,
From what I've heardRare Parts makes the best and most
accurate
reproduction. MOOG was making them, but
I need help finding the dimensions for the center link (drag link)
used on 1964 to 1967 Chevelles. Could someone measure these two
center-to-center distances on the center link for me?
1.) Between the hole for the idler arm and the hole for the gearbox
pitman arm.
2.) Between the holes
Love the Equus #5568:
http://www.equus.com/product_info.php?product_id=5568category_id=1_20;
Quoting Larry Williams larrydwilli...@hughes.net:
Look at the Craftsman. It has good features.
Larry
wallyhd wrote:
depends on how much you want to spend.naturally a snap-on or mac
light is
Does anyone have a Fisher Body manual for a 1968 Chevelle?
Does it have a drawing and dimensions for the rear suspension mount
locations? How about the mount locations on the rear axle?
I'm looking to settle a dispute between two friends of mine...
When replacing sheetmetal floor pans (or other panels) one friend says it's
best to butt-weld the panels together and grind each side clean. The other
says all edges should be flanged with a crimper and welded on one side, seam
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