Yes, I did that about 15 years ago, I used brass inserts epoxied into the
outside rails.
Then later I did the sliding hatch cover by epoxying SS Helicoils into the
teak.
Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Satu
CHARLES SCHEAFFER wrote:
Curious if anyone else tried this?
>
> >> snip <<
>
> My plan is to install threaded inserts into the outside handrails and use
> stainless 10-24 screws from the inside ones to hold them together. My plan
> is to bung the outer handrails and leave out bungs on the inner s
Curious if anyone else tried this?
My cabin top handrails are bolted to a matching set in the cabin ceiling. They
were throughbolted to each other using long bolts and nuts and the holes
bunged. I removed them to fix leaks many years ago and want to install them
now so I can simply remove the
Hey !
:-)
JohnKelly Cuthbertson
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752
> On Mar 19, 2022, at 8:38 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Yes, I'd rather have Bruckman's opinion than Cuthbertson.
First point: No offense to professional naval architects and surveyors, but
I'd prefer a good boat builder look at the boat rather than an engineer.
Engineers are dreamers and they draw lines on paper. Builders know how to
build the engineer's dream and how a boat and keel should behave and
1+ to recommendations for a serious evaluation of this issue by someone who
really knows boats—naval engineer, architect, whatever, unless of course your
sailing venue (current and future) is inshore in reasonable temperature waters
and perhaps within easy reach of rescue and that you require al
Mathew and Stephen,
>>>On my 42, the leading edge of the keel where it meets the hull shows signs
>>>of cracking. I promptly had a nautical engineer look at. He was an intern
>>>or apprentice at C&C in the ‘70s, and based on his knowledge he concluded
>>>that the location of the cracks is not
Trim it before you send it!
All was well on the list format - then Dennis' and Bill's emails come
through as attachments...
Anybody else have this happen?
Brian
-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Trim it before you send it!
There is a Robert Noyce in Annapolis, (410-703-5380) I saw a survey on a
boat he did for the seller, so that survey looked pretty good, as in
nothing of any consequence. I think he's an older fellow
Trim it before you send it!
A buddy of mine had nearly the same issue with a Tartan 33. It had floors
(athwartships reinforcements running across the bilge). It still flexed
and had the hull/keel joint crack nearly every haul
Stephen:
My first boat was a Ranger 26 that had been modified (the cast
iron keel was replaced with an IOR-style lead keel). I discovered this after I
bought the boat -- for a song, mind you, as it had been abandoned. We tackled
a variety of projects, including rebedding th
That doesn't sound like anything that is supposed to happen. I would think
of somebody could flex it from the outside while someone is watching
inside, you should be able to see something. In any event, it seems like
something that might cause it to fall off at some point. I would think it
should b
I could be interested
On Sat, Mar 19, 2022 at 11:01 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I'm interested. Anywhere between Annapolis and New Orleans.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Too soon?
>>
>> We really had fun at the last ones!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
I'm interested. Anywhere between Annapolis and New Orleans.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Too soon?
>
> We really had fun at the last ones!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
Please trim your messages before sending to the list. Thankx
You’re welcome! It’s an easy way to record other people’s ideas and share.
I took a google stroll in the 25-2 and can see it was introduced not long
before before and it is likely built in a very similar way to windstar, meaning
a solid hull, a ‘spider’ (shop made structural grid bonded to the
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