Found a grease cup at McMasterCarr, $64
https://www.mcmaster.com/grease-cups/
I like the zerk fitting idea better. McMasterCarr has stainless ones in many
different sizes.
Chuck
> On 04/25/2022 1:24 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> Chuck or Charlie Nelson
>
>
Thanks for all the replies. Most confirmed Bed-It was good quality stuff which
is what I was using. I couldn't find Bed-It anywhere except the old site which
is now closed cause the owner had a stroke last September.
Ordered butyl tape from SailRite for $12. They usually have quality stuff
Hi Spencer
I like LMR400 – good rigid sheath, lots of shielding and a nice fat center
conductor. However, I would always make antenna runs a home run. LMR400 usually
is best when using an “N” connector, which is a larger diameter connector. A
PL259 and an “N” connector I always disconnect
JP: Don't you need at least one disconnect between the masthead and the VHF?
Something has to give when you pull the mast
I used LMR400 coax cable when I replaced mine and there is a connection under
the saloon sole
Spencer Johnson84 LF38 "Alegria" # 165Racine, WI
-Original
I've used the gold Shakespeare solder-less coax connectors, on a few boats, as
well and have had no issues.
_
Dean
BarraWind
C 34
Halifax, NS
Charlie
As someone that works with RF ALL DAY every day, my suggestion is to replace
the cable. Signal loss from splices and connectors, especially in the
potentially highly oxidizing / corrosive marine environments will or could
eventually- and most likely – render the radio useless. Always
I also have had good luck with the Shakespeare coax splice.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Apr 25, 2022 at 2:40 PM Paul Fountain via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Charlie, better to terminate both ends with a pl259 connector and use a
> pl258 female to female
If you don't want to remove the entire fitting and replace it with a hose
like Spencer suggests, perhaps you can drill and tap the cap and install
the hose or a Zerk grease fitting.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Apr 25, 2022 at 12:25 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
Charlie, better to terminate both ends with a pl259 connector and use a pl258
female to female connector to join them. Coax doesn’t splice well.
Shakespeare have a gold plated solderless connector that I’ve had good success
with, that provides a minimal loss.
Paul
Ahoy all;
I had my 27 yr old rod rigging replaced this past summer. In the process, the
yard cut the antenna cable (and a few others) at the base of the mast. (The
antenna wire looks to be shielded coaxial cable of a relatively small
diameter--much closer to RG-51 size than RG-8 (I used to use
Thanks!
From: ssjohnson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2022 2:01 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: ssjohnson
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rudder Post Grease Cup.
Replace the cup with a hose with a 1/4" fitting to replace the cup and a zero
fitting on the other end...problem fixed permanently. I
Replace the cup with a hose with a 1/4" fitting to replace the cup and a zero
fitting on the other end...problem fixed permanently. I cleaned the old hole
with acetone and used SixTen epoxy as a thread compound. Fill the hose with
grease first. A farm or construction implement dealer can
Thanks!
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2022 1:14 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Re: 36-1 Stuffing Box Access
I just did it on my 35-1.
My advice is to coat the gland's threads and the faces of the locking nut and
packing nut with TefGel
Chuck or Charlie Nelson
On Mon, Apr 25, 2022 at 11:46 AM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hello all. I need to replace the grease cup on my rudder post. All rusted
> up and no longer functional. Does anyone have a source for them? Thanks!
>
>
>
> John McCrea
>
>
I just did it on my 35-1.
My advice is to coat the gland's threads and the faces of the locking nut
and packing nut with TefGel once you separate them. Will make the job
easier next time.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Apr 25, 2022 at 11:18 AM John McCrea via CnC-List <
I have the exact same boat, same year too...to adjust it I need to crawl in
the lazarette while another person reaches through the oil filter access
panel...we each turn a pair of pliers...would be tricky to re-pack but my
guess is lazarette. Good luck!
On Mon, Apr 25, 2022 at 12:18 PM John
Hello,
I need to repack my stuffing box on Talisman and the access on the 36-1 is
really tight. The fuel tank is right on top of the shaft and side access is
not much better. Any advice or input is welcomed! Thanks.
John McCrea
Talisman
1979 36-1
Mystic, CT
Hello all. I need to replace the grease cup on my rudder post. All rusted up
and no longer functional. Does anyone have a source for them? Thanks!
John McCrea
Talisman
1979 36-1
Mystic, CT 06355
I used a battery check device the other day and found that my batteries were
below 50% of their rated power, so I think it is time to replace them (9
years). What I have are 2 (house and start) Deep Cycle Power Tech Group 24
AGM. I went back and read Maine Sailor’s excellent article on
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