I’ve had the same problem, which prevented sleep in a rolly anchorage. A
simple solution was to sheet the boom fairly tight, then use a short length of
3/8 inch line to pull the end of the boom over toward one side, in my case, to
a jam cleat near the main jib sheet winch. This is part of my
We had thought about going, although it’s a pretty long haul from Anacortes for
a weekend. If I can get some time away from work, we’ll be there.
Mike
S/V Limerick
1989 CC 30-2
Anacortes WA
From: Tom Buscaglia [mailto:t...@sv-alera.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2015 7:43 AM
To:
I recently owned a Ranger 29 that had the Indigo prop powered by an A-4. It
was great, drove the boat well, never had any problems.
Mike
From: tim [mailto:hobie1...@comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 7:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Indigo 3 blade propeller
Hi,
Thanks Kevin. Your reply pointed me in the right direction. I think it’s the
Perko latch at this link:
http://www.perko.com/catalog/locks_and_latches/113/flush_lock__latch_with_2_keys/
Don’t know if I need the locking capability, but this one fits so I’ll probably
go with it.
Thanks again,
Does anyone know where to get a replacement anchor locker latch for a CC 30-2?
My wife and I were pulling into an anchorage this past weekend and when I went
forward to get the anchor ready I found that the tab on the latch was
missing... don't know where it could have gone, but the result was
Has anyone on the list had any experience fishing wires through the headliner
of a CC 30 mark II? I just added a radome on my mast with the cables exiting
the mast along with the masthead light, etc, wiring and I'd like to get them
back to the panel without going through the bilge.
Thanks in
Peter,
Regarding the Indigo prop – in addition to my CC, I have another boat, a
Ranger 29 (6700 pounds empty), with an A4 and the Indigo prop. I can’t compare
to the original prop, but I must say the current A4/Indigo combination easily
pushes the boat along at hull speed through some serious
This is a well known problem with Yanmar engines. I had exact same symptom on
a previous boat (Yanmar 2gm20f). Apparently, the wiring from the starter
switch to the starter solenoid is NOT QUITE adequate to always energize the
solenoid. It can be fixed by adding an additional relay. See the
Yes, Ken is correct, the skylight is directly bonded to the flat surface of the
deck. I have removed it as well as all of the original adhesive used to attach
it. I will be rebonding it next week with Sika 295iUV. I'm hoping that will
take care of a leak that has found its way in between
Charlie,
Assuming your setup is similar to mine, you do have to remove the spray hood
which covers the hatch rails. I've had mine off three different times trying
to fix the leak I mentioned without removing the skylight itself. No dice. So
I'm reinstalling the skylight correctly after which
I've read many of the postings regarding rebedding windows and ports. My
question is specifically about the skylight just forward of the companionway in
the CC 30 mk II. Does anyone know what this is made of? I'd like to remove
and reattach it and I'm wondering if Sika 295 with appropriate
but one does worry about the errant flying fish.
HaHa... good one, Martin :).
Mike
1989 CC 30 mk II Echappe'
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I think the way to look at it is, “yes, it’s damned expensive, but one has got
to have some fun in life!!” Besides, as someone already pointed out, it’s
cheaper than therapy!
Mike
CC 30 mk II Echappe’
From: Gary Nylander [mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 7:11
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