Wednesday, August 22, 2001 Elul 3, 5761Israel Time:
                        16:22 (GMT+3)

Ha'aretz - Internet Edition

                        Westward ho!

                        Emigration has become the hottest topic of discussion in
                        many Israeli households during the past few months -
                        especially among young people, newly discharged soldiers
                        and university graduates. The race for a foreign
                        passport, a work permit and real estate abroad is at its
                        height. Conversations with Israelis who want to leave
                        ...

                        By Uriya Shavit

                        The time is 8:30 on a Thursday evening. The place is an
                        office building on Daniel Frisch Street in Tel Aviv.
                        About 30 Israelis have arrived to hear a lecture,
                        accompanied by slides and a video. Avi Idelman, the
                        secretary-general of the Mondragon cooperative
                        association, makes them an offer they have a hard time
                        refusing: Pay the shekel equivalent of $4,500 and join
                        the association, which entitles you to three dunams
                        (three-quarters of an acre) of land in Vanuatu, a group
                        of islands in the southwest Pacific, formerly the New
                        Hebrides.

                        Some 2,000 families have joined the association to date.
                        Members are recruited by friends who have already
                        joined, and the new members, in turn, get others to sign
                        up. The association has leased 800,000 dunams of land in
                        Vanuatu for a period of 150 years and intends to turn
                        the land into an economic asset for its members.

                        "We will concentrate on establishing a free-trade zone,
                        and there will be high-tech, finance, advanced
                        agriculture," Idelman tells the audience. "I am betting
                        that the land value will rise. We will help open
                        consulates of Vanuatu around the world. We have an
                        option to purchase 49 percent of Air Vanuatu. We will
                        also focus on tourism. A lot of tourists will come from
                        Israel: Your friends will come to see how we've
                        succeeded, and those who hate you, will come to see how
                        we've failed."

                        Most of those in the room have never heard of Vanuatu,
                        which was under French-British administration before
                        being granted independence in 1980. Idelman tries to
                        persuade his listeners that the tiny country, population
                        180,000, is the Promised Land. And it's also almost
                        close to home: no more than a seven-hour flight from
                        Japan, two and a half hours from Australia, and closer
                        to Petah Tikva than, for example, the Pacific
                        island-nation of Kiribati.

                        Idelman, an affable fellow, wears a white shirt with a
                        high collar, like a priest. He believes wholeheartedly
                        that the dream is practical. He uses a simple method for
                        marketing Vanuatu to Israelis: He explains that it's not
                        Israel.

                        "There is no poverty and no crime, the sanitation is
                        amazing," he exclaims. "I lived in New York, but the
                        best restaurant I ever ate in is in Vanuatu. Vanuatu is
                        considered the third most important tax haven in the
                        world. It's an island that rose from the water, with no
                        snakes and no scorpions. It doesn't have two nations
                        that are fighting each other."

                        The video shows Vanuatu in all its splendor: ships sail
                        across white waves in blue water, young women tread
                        tranquilly across a virgin beach, horses with manes
                        flying, cantor nobly between wooden huts. Not all those
                        present are impressed, but some are captivated and ask
                        for more details.

                        Eran Even Shushan, 30, wants to know how many residences
                        he can build on the plot he will receive. "And another
                        question: If I am a member of the association, and I
                        want my parents or my girlfriend to come to Vanuatu to
                        live and work, is that legal?"

                        Idelman's replies are good enough for Even Shushan. He
                        works in an industrial plant and has a "totally ordinary
                        salary," but at the end of the evening, he signs a
                        promissory note to pay $4,500 in order to join the
                        association. He is not the only one. Even Shushan says
                        his decision was an obvious one from the beginning.

                        "My intuition told me to go for it. It's not such a
                        large investment. I have the feeling there is positive
                        energy in Vanuatu. Personally, I am more interested in
                        the economic possibilities than in the possibility of
                        living in Vanuatu. But I'm glad the option exists. An
                        option is a good thing. People with options are a lot
                        happier than people without options."

                        Overseas options are what a great many Israelis are
                        looking for this summer. The combination of the volatile
                        security situation and the worsening economic slowdown
                        is causing them to look for insurance policies across
                        the sea - passports, work permits, real estate.

                        This extensive activity takes place, for the most part,
                        far from the spotlight of publicity. More than two
                        decades after Yitzhak Rabin disparaged emigrants as
                        "dropping[s] out of parasites," emigration is still a
                        major taboo in Israeli society. Israelis who are
                        thinking about leaving the country don't usually think
                        out loud.

                        Fear and helplessness

                        Who are the people involved? According to a survey
                        conducted for Ha'aretz Magazine by the Mutagim Agency,
                        14 percent of the country's adult Jewish population have
                        considered the possibility in the past few months. The
                        potential emigrants are united neither by political
                        preferences nor geographic location. What they do have
                        in common is their young age: Only 2 percent of Israelis
                        above the age of 65, and only 8 percent of Israelis
                        between the ages of 45 and 54, have contemplated
                        emigration in recent months. The critical mass of those
                        displaying an interest in leaving the country are in the
                        28-34 age bracket: 28 percent of them have considered
                        the possibility in the past few months.

                        These are Israelis at the beginning of their
                        professional career, on the brink of starting a family,
                        or the parents of small children. They bear the main
                        burden of reserve duty, find it hard to buy a home or to
                        meet mortgage payments, and are also well acquainted
                        with many of the world's remote locales. By chance or
                        not, they are also the commodity most sought-after by
                        the major countries of immigration, which prefer (if at
                        all) young people.

                        Since the start of the Intifada, journalist Ben Zion
                        Citrin, who writes for Ha'aretz, has found himself in
                        greater demand than ever before. An expert on emigration
                        and the author of the book "All the Ways to Obtain a
                        Second Passport," he has had his hands full in recent
                        months. Those who contact him, he says, don't come out
                        with a declaration that they are going to leave
                        immediately, but are interested in the peace of mind
                        that a second passport affords.

                        "They say that life in Israel has become dangerous. They
                        are afraid of a large-scale war, afraid for the fate of
                        their children. They want to be sure that if the Saigon
                        story repeats itself here, they will be able to leave on
                        the last helicopter. What characterizes all of them is
                        panic, fear, hysteria, a sense of helplessness and
                        anxiety. The fear of what tomorrow will bring.

                        "What broke them?" asks Citrin. "They are rational
                        people who have lost hope. They think there is no longer
                        a chance of peace. These people are the salt of the
                        earth. They do military service and then they do reserve
                        duty. When they ask me about the possibilities of
                        emigrating, they do so with a sense of shame. Some of
                        them tell me their parents are Holocaust survivors, they
                        love the country, but they can't go on."

                        The most sought-after passports, Citrin says, are
                        American, Canadian and Australian. The last two are
                        preferred, because Canada and Australia are more willing
                        to take new immigrants than other countries. Citrin
                        himself tells those who contact him not to put all their
                        eggs in one basket.

                        "I tell worried people that the solution is not the
                        passport but a series of actions in which they `spread
                        the eggs around.' In other words, to invest in one
                        country, get a resident's status in another country, and
                        buy a house in a third country. If the problem is fear
                        of what will happen, don't put all your eggs in New
                        York. Spreading yourself out is a smarter move."

                        The Canadian Embassy in Tel Aviv has seen a sharp rise
                        in the number of Israelis requesting visas for permanent
                        residency since the start of the Intifada nearly 11
                        months ago. Between January and October 2000, the
                        embassy got about a hundred requests a month; since
                        October, the number has risen to 150. Some 90 percent of
                        those applying are Israelis who immigrated from the
                        former Soviet Union in the past 10 years; 6 percent are
                        Palestinians from the territories; and only 4 percent
                        are veteran Israelis.

                        According to unofficial data, immigrants from the former
                        Soviet Union also constitute the majority of visa
                        applicants in the United States Embassy.

                   Psychological security

                        Zvi Ken-Tor is a partner in Schwartz-Ken-Tor, the
                        biggest firm in Israel for obtaining overseas work
                        permits.

                        "In the past few months," he reports, "there has been an
                        increase of about 10 percent in the number of private
                        individuals contacting us and wanting to examine the
                        possibility of working abroad."

                        However, Ken-Tor adds, most of them will not find work
                        overseas and will remain in Israel: "We have nothing to
                        offer these people. These days, even if you have
                        connections in the U.S., even if you are in high-tech,
                        there is no guarantee that you will find work there,"
                        Ken-Tor says. "There is a wave of dismissals in the U.S.
                        just like here. I would say that fewer Israelis will
                        leave this year for an extended stay there than in 2000
                        - about 5,000 or 6,000 this year, compared to 8,000 last
                        year. The direct reason for this decline is the crisis
                        in the Nasdaq."

                        Shlomo Manor, who is in charge of the North America
                        division of Re/Max real estate, says that the security
                        and economic situation in Israel has generated a lot of
                        interest in the purchase of real estate abroad.

                        "The increase is on the order of 30 percent as compared
                        to last year. People want a fifth wheel, like for a car.
                        An apartment abroad gives them psychological security.
                        Their thinking is that if they have property abroad,
                        they will have a place to escape to in a case like the
                        Gulf War," he explains.

                        The people in contact with Manor are mainly
                        professionals from affluent areas in Tel Aviv, Ramat
                        Hasharon, Kfar Sava and the Denya and Ahuza
                        neighborhoods of Haifa.

                        What are the preferred locations overseas?

                        Manor: "In Canada, it's Toronto. Real- estate prices
                        there are 40 percent below what they were in 1993.
                        Toronto is a large business and commercial center and
                        the prices there are going to recover. As always, there
                        is a demand for Manhattan, even though the prices there
                        are high. Florida is also in high demand. In Europe,
                        Hungary and the Czech Republic are in demand, mainly
                        because they are soon going to become part of the
                        European Union. In Spain, there is a demand for
                        apartments on the Costa del Sol, and in France, people
                        are looking for flats in the St. Germain section of
                        Paris."

                    What's important for Israelis in buying a place abroad?

                        "The main thing is its salability. They want a house of
                        200 square meters made not of wood but of blocks - the
                        more concrete and iron the better - and preferably with
                        a garden and a swimming pool. The swimming pool: That's
                        the big dream. There are thousands of people who show an
                        interest, but only a few of them will actually buy a
                        dwelling abroad. If we get a hundred people to one of
                        our meetings, maybe 20 will return for a second meeting
                        and maybe five will buy an apartment. The decision is
                        made by both spouses, so the decision-making process
                        takes a long time.

                        "It's very pleasant to attend a meeting [focusing on]
                        overseas real estate offers in a period like the
                        present: It doesn't cost money, the hall is
                        air-conditioned, you get coffee and cake. It's a nice,
                        relaxing way to spend time, to play with the possibility
                        of being a resident abroad."

                        Life as usual

                        After the coming season of Jewish holidays, Karen
                        Shapira, 29, will leave her rented flat in Tel Aviv and
                        return to Chicago. She immigrated to Israel about six
                        years ago. Her motive back then: Zionism.

                        The daughter of Romanian parents who moved from Israel
                        to the United States, Shapira fell in love with the
                        country: "I had a passion to live in Israel. I arrived
                        two weeks before they murdered Rabin. I found warm
                        people, parties, fun, friends who came here. In the
                        U.S., we're a minority. When you grow up as part of a
                        minority, you always have to ask yourself questions. In
                        Israel, I could feel comfortable with my identity."

                        Shapira is leaving because of a combination of two
                        reasons. She lost her job - and her sense of personal
                        security. She has a master's degree in business
                        administration and in the past few years, worked in
                        international marketing at a communications company.

                        "Four months ago, the company went bankrupt and I was
                        fired. Since then, I haven't been able to find a job,"
                        she relates. "I tried everything. Placement companies,
                        head-hunting, the want ads, the Internet. Nothing
                        helped. There's no work. I have an MBA, I'm ready to do
                        vocational retraining. What does a person have to do to
                        find work here?

                        "But that's only part of the problem. The other part of
                        the problem is the security situation. We've reached a
                        situation where you can't even sit in a coffee shop. So
                        it's impossible even to be unemployed. There is pressure
                        in the air all the time, the atmosphere is bad."

                        It's easier for new immigrants to leave than it is for
                        veteran Israelis. To begin with, many of them still have
                        a foreign passport. Second, while veteran Israelis are
                        under pressure from family and friends to stay, new
                        immigrants have families in their home country who
                        pressure them to come back.

                        Shai Rahat, sales manager in the division of personal
                        items in Global Vision, a shipping firm, says that the
                        past few months have seen an increase in the number of
                        new immigrants from English-speaking countries who are
                        leaving the country.

                        "This summer, I encountered dozens of families of
                        veteran Israelis, and hundreds of families of new
                        immigrants, who left the country. The sabras reach a
                        decision to leave after a process. They tell me that the
                        ones who leave are sane and those who stay behind are
                        the crazy ones. They have been considering the option
                        for five years; Zionism hasn't been part of the picture
                        for a long time.

                        "For the English-speaking new immigrants, Zionism plays
                        an important role. They believe in the Zionist idea, and
                        very often they came here after giving up good jobs, and
                        they would like to stay in the country. But when a bomb
                        goes off under their nose, they break. They tell me that
                        after terrorist attacks come the phone calls from their
                        parents in the home country - `What are you doing in
                        Israel? When are you coming home?'"

                        Karen Shapira says that the latest wave of terrorist
                        bombings has affected her more than the previous ones:
                        "I remember the day of the attack in the Apropos
                        restaurant [in Tel Aviv] four years ago. That was 300
                        meters from my apartment; I was really close to the
                        place. When I got home I could hear the ambulances. It
                        was 2:30 in the afternoon. In the U.S., it was six in
                        the morning. I called my mother and told her, `I'm sorry
                        to wake you up, I just wanted to tell you I'm alive.'
                        But when that happened, there was still hope. People
                        thought that one day there might be peace. Now the
                        feeling is that things aren't going to move. I find it
                        hard to accept the approach that has developed in Israel
                        about the attacks."

                   What do you mean?

                        Shapira: "When the attack at the Dolphinarium happened,
                        I was at a party in Ramat Hahayal. People watched the
                        news and went on with the party. A fatalistic approach
                        has developed here, an approach of `seize the day.' In
                        the States, despite the economic crunch, I'll find work.
                        You can't compare the U.S. to Israel; it's like apples
                        and oranges. They have 50 states, and all there is here
                        is Gush Dan" - referring to metropolitan Tel Aviv.

                        Born to be emigrants

                        There is really no way to know how many Israelis who
                        contemplated the idea of leaving the country during the
                        past year have actually realized, or intend to realize,
                        their intention. The picture one gets from the embassies
                        is confusing. Some embassies report a considerable
                        increase in the number of Israelis who want to obtain a
                        passport and a permanent residency visa (in addition to
                        the Canadian Embassy, there has been a significant surge
                        of 12 percent in the British Embassy in the number of
                        applications for passports in 2001 as compared with
                        2000). Other embassies, though, say they have not
                        noticed any change (including the embassy of the United
                        States - the number-one emigration destination of
                        Israelis - and the embassy of the Netherlands, another
                        popular country).

                        The data from shipping companies are also along the same
                        lines: Some report a large increase in orders, others
                        say the situation is unchanged, still others say there
                        has been a decrease in orders to move household effects
                        abroad.

                        What is clear is that the increase in the number of
                        Israelis going abroad since the start of the Intifada
                        balances out the number of Israelis who are sent abroad
                        by their employer, particularly in the high-tech sphere.
                        It is also clear that the Israelis who are leaving the
                        country have liberated themselves from the stigma of
                        being a yored - literally, "one who goes down," the
                        opposite of oleh, or "one who goes up," which is the
                        state's preferred term for "immigrant" (hence aliyah, or
                        "immigration") - that was once derisively hurled at
                        emigrants. In a world where flights out of the country
                        are available and cheap, and moving from one land to
                        another for employment is a routine matter, leaving is
                        not necessarily forever.

                        Eran Dranger is the owner and CEO of Oceanus, one of the
                        largest international shipping companies in Israel. The
                        word "yeridah" (literally, "going down"), he says, has
                        been erased from the lexicon of his clients. Israelis
                        who go abroad for long stretches of time are these days
                        "relocating" or "looking for opportunities."

                        "There is no Israeli who will tell you, `I am going and
                        not coming back,' as they used to say in the past,"
                        Dranger says. "The Israeli sees the trip as an
                        opportunity, not an admission of failure. Going abroad
                        is said to be for a few years, even if in some cases it
                        becomes a lifelong stay, either because of family
                        reasons - marriage, establishing a family - or for
                        economic reasons, such as finding a job that is hard to
                        abandon."

                        The Ha'aretz Magazine survey shows that 43 percent of
                        the Israelis who have had thoughts of leaving in the
                        past few months prefer the United States, 18 percent
                        have set their sights on Australia, 14 percent on
                        Europe, 5 percent on Canada and 2 percent on Britain.
                        The most important consideration for an Israeli in a
                        foreign country is quality of life, Dranger says.

                        "The West Coast of the U.S. is the number-one preferred
                        location, mainly because of the large Jewish and Israeli
                        population there. In the past year, Australia has also
                        become a preferred destination: There is a warm Jewish
                        community there, they like Israelis and the cost of
                        living is reasonable."

                   What do Israelis take with them when they go abroad?

                        Dranger: "If they are being sent by their employer, they
                        take everything - furniture, carpets, paintings, kitchen
                        utensils. The difference is that American and European
                        companies don't pay for shipping, whereas Israeli
                        companies do - but the Israeli companies don't pay for
                        storage, so for Israelis who are sent abroad by their
                        place of work, it's worth taking whatever they can.

                        "Electrical appliances are usually given to relatives,
                        because apartments abroad usually come equipped with
                        them, at least in part. The average worth of the
                        household items that Israelis ship abroad is $25,000.
                        Among the high-tech people, the contents of the
                        container tend to have a conservative character. The
                        furniture of Israelis is very functional, and they have
                        relatively few art objects or collections."

                   What kind of emigrants do they make?

                        "Israelis are considered people who adapt to new
                        surroundings with record speed. They learn new languages
                        quickly, they are mobile, and there is an Israeli
                        community in every large Western city that helps them
                        acclimatize. The Israelis are migrants in their souls."

                        Surrender to terrorism

                        At some point in the next few months, after he finds a
                        buyer for his apartment in the Sharon region, Amos
                        Sahar, 35, a tour guide, will leave Israel with his wife
                        and infant son.

                        "I admit it without reservations: I have surrendered to
                        terrorism," he says. "I'm not proud of it, I'm not
                        flaunting it, but there is no way to tell us to stay
                        here if there is no way to guarantee our lives. Israel
                        is one possibility among many in the world. I want to
                        give my family the maximum happiness possible."

                        Sahar published his subversive approach on the Internet
                        (on Ynet) immediately after the terrorist attack in June
                        at the Dolphinarium in Tel Aviv. His statement drew
                        hundreds of responses, which made it possible to get a
                        grasp of the public mood. Most of those who sent
                        messages attacked Sahar ferociously.

                        "In battle, I would be allowed to shoot you in the
                        back," Oron, from Tel Aviv, wrote. "As long as you are a
                        Jew, you won't have anywhere to escape to," Eyal, from
                        Jerusalem, asserted. "Jewish history is filled with
                        losers and cowards like you, from Josephus all the way
                        to the yordim in Los Angeles, who have become car
                        cleaners. Where do you think you will go? To the Bronx?
                        Or maybe to France, to the neo-Nazis?"

                        Some, though, hiding under the anonymity of the Web,
                        said they agreed with Sahar.

                        "I'm with you," wrote Dan. "I'm leaving, too," Keren
                        stated. "True, sad and so true," Arik, from Modi'in,
                        commented. "Unfortunately, I understand you," Alon, from
                        Kfar Sava, wrote. "At last someone is saying and doing
                        what the majority want but are afraid to say or do,"
                        Yoni, from Rehovot, wrote. "Where is your house and how
                        much do you want for it?" asked a practical writer, who
                        did not identify himself.

                        In the Ha'aretz Magazine survey, only a minority of
                        respondents - 37 percent - said they took a negative or
                        very negative approach to "Israelis who are leaving the
                        country at this time." Sixteen percent said their
                        attitude to the current crop of emigrants is "positive
                        or very positive," and 43 percent said they were
                        indifferent.

                        Nevertheless, the subject of emigration remains a
                        sensitive issue. It wasn't difficult to find Israelis
                        who serve in the army and love the homeland, but who
                        spoke in the same vein as Amos Sahar, or even more
                        sharply - but it was impossible to persuade them to
                        speak on the record. They were afraid of what their
                        parents, their friends, and their colleagues at work
                        would say. In many homes, emigration is an issue in
                        sharp dispute between husband and wife. Any unnecessary
                        remark can fan the flames.

                   A small, boring place

                        Sahar says that the reactions to his article in his
                        circle of friends were not aggressive: "They accepted it
                        with understanding. It didn't lead to a crisis with any
                        of them. I hate to be pompous, but these people are the
                        salt of the earth, people who contribute a lot - reserve
                        duty, regular army, career army. They all think there is
                        nowhere to go from here. The problem is that for 53
                        years, the state hasn't been able to guarantee our
                        security. That is the reason for leaving. The feeling is
                        of a dead end. I am simply looking after the future of
                        my little boy, who is just an infant."

                   Maybe you should stay and try to change the situation.

                        Sahar: "The solution is to leave, not to change the
                        government. It's hard for me to say this, but we are
                        leading our lives here like zombies. We walk on the
                        street and someone could blow himself up and blow us up
                        with him into thousands of chunks of flesh. I don't see
                        any prospect for some sort of great change. My feeling -
                        and not only my feeling, but my rational analysis - is
                        that there is no way to ensure people's lives here."

                        Your friends, the landscape, the language - won't you
                        miss them?

                        "I know every centimeter on the trails of the hills in
                        this country, every plant. I could tell you all the
                        folklore you want about the history of the Land of
                        Israel. But by the same token, I can love the landscape
                        somewhere else. My basic assumption is that everything
                        we swallowed here from the moment we were born, whether
                        it's in the Scouts or in a left-wing youth movement, is
                        no more rooted than what exists in other places. I don't
                        understand how I can love Israel when I am being shot at
                        from every nook and cranny. I am not ready to live here
                        according to the collective.

                        "With my two hands, I built a home, created a family and
                        I am raising a child - and I want to live, not to be
                        buried in the ground. I was born in order to be happy. I
                        was at the scene of a terrorist attack and I saw the
                        blood and the flesh. I don't want to be the next duck in
                        the shooting gallery."

        Can you understand the fierce reactions to what you say?

                        "Up to a point. If any of those people who are
                        criticizing me in the name of the collective group of
                        the Land of Israel loyalists were to speak to me after
                        he or his relatives suffered a tragedy, he would
                        probably speak differently. We were all raised on the
                        well-known mantras that our grandparents didn't come
                        [all the way] from Morocco or Poland so we would leave.
                        But I am speaking the truth, which no one wants to
                        acknowledge, and the truth is that it's impossible to go
                        on living here."

                        Does your wife see things the same way?

                        "My wife, like me, did full army service, she pays
                        income tax - and she was convinced before I was that we
                        have to leave Israel. The parents on both sides accept
                        what we are doing. What I hear from them is that if they
                        were younger, and if not for the financial investments,
                        they would also pack up and go to another country, like
                        us. And I am talking about sabra parents on one side and
                        about parents who came here 30 years ago from Eastern
                        Europe for Zionist reasons on the other side - but they
                        still say these same things. What I wrote doesn't just
                        express the feelings of my generation."

                        Sahar's first idea was to move to an island country in
                        the Pacific (not Vanuatu). In the end, he decided to
                        move to a large Western country, which he asked me not
                        to name, and began the immigration procedure.

                        His dream, he says, is "to buy a bed-and-breakfast place
                        with 20 rooms on the shore of a lake and to know that I
                        don't have to be stuck in traffic jams, and that if I am
                        stuck in a traffic jam, that I won't be blown up. I have
                        seen people living that way in other countries. I'm
                        looking for a small, boring place, where people leave
                        their door open when they go shopping. I know it's out
                        there."

                        Still, the overwhelming majority of Israelis are staying
                        put.

                        "We have friends - two couples - who have already gone
                        abroad, and another two friends are in the process. It's
                        sad. I can understand those who don't get the idea. When
                        I was growing up, I read all kinds of literature against
                        emigrating. We were all raised on that. For example, `To
                        Come Back No Matter What,' by Maoz Habib. The story is
                        about a boy whose parents decided to move to New York
                        for economic reasons, and when the Yom Kippur War - or
                        maybe it was the Six-Day War - breaks out, he makes his
                        way back and brings his parents, too. He organizes his
                        buddies to help, and in the end, the family returns to
                        Israel.

                        "That is just another example of the things they
                        preached to us from childhood, that an Israeli will
                        always feel away from Israel when he is in a foreign
                        country."

                        Will you take the book with you?

                        "Sure. It's part of my childhood landscape."n

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