Figured this out. Closing.
Cause:
I had intentionally put my home directory under mercurial, primarily to track
config files. .hgignore ignored everything.
The tortoisehg extension apparently ignores .hgignore. When I ran
nautilus with strace, the problem became clear: tortoisehg was
** Attachment added: "script to generate nautilus timings"
https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/nautilus/+bug/1522177/+attachment/4528783/+files/time-nautilus
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