I had a lamp go out, from what I can tell in the manual these are called #53
but not sure how to find one to purchase. Any help
would be appreciated.
Seems there is 12vac across the two wires at the lamp holder.
Bob AD5VJ
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I haven't posted an update to my leisurely refurbishment & repair of the Drake
T-4X / R-4A that I bought at the Shelby Hamfest in September.
I picked up a few likely replacement tubes at the Benson, NC hamfest last
weekend and replaced the one known-bad 12BA6 (V4) that was in the receiver.
The
Well, she is receiving a cw signal right now on 14.025 or so, but the speaker
volume seems low and the S needle is sitting at 20
over nine.
I cleaned the tube sockets with WD-40 and the wafer switches, but it didn't
change anything.
I am guessing I may have an AGC tube starting to go south, bu
Does anyone know where to get or have one of the 4 pin accessory plugs found on
the rear of the R-4C? really need one.
73 Max
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One thing I dont understand about this rig, I thought it was supposed to go to
the correct sideband for you when you change bands.
All the sidebands are correct except on 40 it goes to USB and then I have to
tune in the signal, but the good news is it seems to be
darn close in frequency to my F
ITS WORKING NOW
thanks guys for the guidance.
It was the xmit/rx relay. I taped on it and it now has audio and I am listening
to the swap meet on 7.245.
The signal level is low, but I think I need to get into the relay and clean it.
then do a good alignment according to the manual.
Bob AD5
>From what I can tell the 6AQ5A is the audio output tube if I am reading the
>list correctly in the manual.
Bob AD5VJ
> -Original Message-
> From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
> [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of AD5VJ Bob
> Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 10:21 AM
>
Hi Gary
Thanks, I appreciate that as I just downloaded a R4 manual last night hoping
they might be similar.
I just noticed after taking all of the tubes out cleaning them off and
replacing them, I now have filament voltages on all the tubes
and they are all lighting up.
But, now I have no au
It's in the rig. If you do not have a manual, STOP. You can download a
manual from the WB4HFN web site. Garey's CD is also a great help, even
though it is for the TR-4.
Be sure you have the right tools.
You must have a set of plastic alignment tools (available from Mouser).
Do not use metal screw
I'll add that there are lethal voltages, so please be very careful. Fixing the
filament circuit would be easy compared to the high voltage and RF work that is
ahead of you. Most of the TR-4 information still applies to the TR-3, which is
just an early TR-4 anyway. I brought a dead eBay TR-3 back
Bob -
I know it's a radical idea, but start with the MANUAL! :-)
Drake left a lot out of the manual, (see my CDs, :-) ,) but the Theory
of Operation section is pretty good in most. The early TR-4 is very
similar to the TR-3, so that manual would help, and web-based info on
the TR-4 as well
You are getting the +250V but no 12V filament voltage. Check the filament fuse,
which is close to the power connector, I believe (my early TR-3 does not have
it).
73,
Bob WW3QB
--- On Sun, 11/22/09, AD5VJ Bob wrote:
From: AD5VJ Bob
Subject: [Drakelist] Troubleshooting guide?
To: drakelist@ze
I am trying to troubleshoot a TR3 that I was recently given and am trying to
restore. I have never done this before and as a result
have been googling everything I can find on the Drake line.
I have found many good websites, but they all seem to focus more on the TR4 and
TR7 series of rigs.
Doe
Good Afternoon All,
Alright, alright, I know: there is NO Drake content in this message...but
per chance, are there any ICOM 751's - 751A's out there being parted-out at
the present time...?
I'm specifically looking for a replacement rear panel (part # 30327, per the
Service Manual) for a 751A.
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