For #1, the manual is correct. There could be several reasons you show no
current. Check all the voltages according to the voltage chart.
For #3, that's not normal and I've seen this before. The crystal oscillator
and/or VFO is not oscillating. You are not hearing on the frequency you think
yo
Brett, I think it probably has more to do with the method of neutralization
than the capability of tubes to neutralize. I've never run into a tube
combination that I've not been able to neutralize and use
successfully. I've always used the "neutralize for dip and max power out
on 10m" str
AFAIK, the A, B and C models are the same Gerry?
John K5MO
At 12:16 PM 10/5/2010, abqco...@aol.com wrote:
Greetings from New Mexico where the blue sky is filled with color this
week as the International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta is underway.
I have a question as to any differences there ma
Brett -
I've run into trouble with Raytheons also. It's been many years since I
used anything but Sylvania or Zenith, and I don't recall what I did with
the Raytheons. Typically you can neutralize all but the worst, by
tweaking the fixed capacitor C65 across the neutralization cap C64.
It'
Hi folks! I've been reading old posts here about tubes, and haven't come
across
an answer. Still tinkering with the TX4C, and I picked up some final tubes
that are labeled Raytheon. I seem to be having trouble getting them to
neutralize. Are these tubes simply inappropriate for the Drakes
Sorry about the wrong Subject line
Curt Nixon wrote:
Good Afternoon List Members:
I need to replace the Main filter caps in my PS7. All the normal
sources are not available from stock and have minimums from 25-80
pcs. (Newark, Mouser, Digikey, Allied etc) Have an email into
Duracap in Ont
Good Afternoon List Members:
I need to replace the Main filter caps in my PS7. All the normal
sources are not available from stock and have minimums from 25-80 pcs.
(Newark, Mouser, Digikey, Allied etc) Have an email into Duracap in
Ontario to see but does anyone have a source for these?
Yep, same thing..
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
Charles Ring wrote:
How about the 2-AQ/2-BQ vs. the 2-CQ (which I have)? Other than
appearance are they compatible?
On 10/5/2010 12:53, Garey Barrell wrote:
Jim -
T
How about the 2-AQ/2-BQ vs. the 2-CQ (which I have)? Other than
appearance are they compatible?
On 10/5/2010 12:53, Garey Barrell wrote:
Jim -
The biggest difference between the two is a single letter on the front
panel!
They are functionally identical. Actually the "A" is a little mo
I am trying to put my TR-4C back on the air after many years on the shelf. I
have a few problems and questions for now. Maybe more later.
1. The bias adjustment procedure as listed in the manual does not work. The
bias current reads close to zero and does not change with adjustment of the
bias
Jim -
The biggest difference between the two is a single letter on the front
panel!
They are functionally identical. Actually the "A" is a little more
expensive since not as many were made of either the receiver or the
Q-Multiplier in the A versions.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drak
Greetings from New Mexico where the blue sky is filled with color this week as
the International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta is underway.
I have a question as to any differences there may be between the 2AQ and the
2BQ Q multiplier.
>From an Ebay purchase that was advertised as a 2BQ I find the i
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