Bud -
Not really, compared to the heat and _mechanical_ shock each time it's turned on For cathode
type tubes, (most small receiving tubes and some transmitting tubes,) what 'wears out' in a tube is
the electron emitting cathode coating. Weak tubes are often a result of the cathode coatin
Tom -
Good compromise! :-) This was common in LOTS of tube gear before the 'greenies' attacked and
demanded we unplug our electric toothbrushes!! They would have stroked over the 'Damp Chaser'
Hallicrafter's and others used in receivers. For the youngsters, a 'Damp Chaser' was an access
Tom -
I just re-read your message...
Just HOW do you connect a 'reverse-biased diode' to AC???:-)
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
TC Dailey wrote:
Back in the day... I borrowed an idea from the color-TV "instan
Don -
This definitely helps mitigate turn-on surge currents. It's critical to get the 'right size', and
to mount it away from other components, as they DO get hot in operation. 'OH NO, 'wasted' power!'
They also reduce the voltage applied to all components by a small amount, which doesn't hu
I use to keep the tube rigs warm and happy until
I got the electric bill
They are turned off now.
I'm not talking about one or two rigs either, there are dozens in the
shack, and they hit the electric up to the point they had to go dark.
mike
Mike Bryce, WB8VGE
the heathkit shop
Sun
On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 09:50:28 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote:
>the 'greenies' attacked and
>demanded we unplug our electric toothbrushes!!
And yet, most of our modern electronics draws a small amount of standby power
to accomodate remote controls, "soft" power buttons, etc. I guess that's OK
Th
So do you just put one of these devices in series with the hot line of
the AC mains?
Guy,
WA6OQQ
On 9/9/2011 9:06 PM, Jim Shorney wrote:
On Fri, 9 Sep 2011 22:44:35 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote:
I am trying a thermistor from Mouser on my 516F2 power supply for the KWM2A
at the suggestion of a
On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 07:47:02 -0700, Guy Giacopuzzi wrote:
>So do you just put one of these devices in series with the hot line of
>the AC mains?
Yep. See the article by DL7MAJ that I posted the link to. They do get warm in
normal operation, so you want to allow them room to "breathe".
73
-Jim
No,Garey, I will defer to your infinitely better knowledge,in most
everything radiowise,,,thanks for the info!!
Bud
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2011 7:44 AM
To:
What is the optimum AC current for the R4A? Are the >100.00 variacs on Ebay
good enough for bringing up Drake tube equipment?
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
A 60W light bulb in series with the AC line works just as well or better, and is a lot easier, (and
cheaper!)
It also prevents you from turning the Variac up to 130+ VAC, which most will do
all too easily.
An R-4A should draw a little less than 0.5A after warm up.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen
I am in the processing of saving an older R4 from the dumpster so some one
can enjoy it. The copper is pretty darn good but it is missing the top and
bottom of the black cabinet. Can I use any Drake top/bottom on this R4 or
am I limited to the genuine R4 Top/Bottom combo. Hamfest season is geari
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