Maybe this has been addressed in the last six
years but I don't know how to search and check
such a general notion.
Effectively, I tripled checked every component
before soldering it in.
The first check is that I inventoried every
component and placed them into separate partitions
of a drawe
what mode was the Sony in? AM? SSB? Does it have a CW mode?
Also, maybe you were right on the carrier, with no beat to hear?
Just guesses!
On Jun 8, 2005, at 8:47 PM, mc wrote:
To test out this new built KX1, I send out a few dit dah and put my
Sony multiband receiver on the same frequency
I used my KY-562/U (J-37) straight key with my KX1 until I felt more
comfortable with a paddle at faster speeds
Chuck Gehring
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of mc
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 7:43 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Ele
In a message dated 6/8/2005 8:43:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
just finished my new KX1, How do I get the code lower than the 10 WPM, I'm
just getting started and I am not quite up there yet.
>>>
You'll be up there before you know
To test out this new built KX1, I send out a few dit dah and put my Sony
multiband receiver on the same frequency 7001.00 about eight feet away from the
KX1. but the Sony receiver only gets a faint signal, I'm just beginning with
CW and as yet never sent or received a signal from anyone.
Mi
just finished my new KX1, How do I get the code lower than the 10 WPM, I'm just
getting started and I am not quite up there yet.
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In a message dated 08/06/05 17:50:09 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
Just a thought on dummy loads, a number of years ago I noticed my Heath
Cantenna was giving me a slightly higher SWR reading instead of 1 to 1.
When I measured it with a VTVM I found it was 40 ohms, not the or
Hi again,
some news:
I am able to trigger the condition manually when hitting rb5 with gnd or
when hitting the base of q7 with 12v (via resistor of course).
But still:
Removing J8 results in relay clicking and the light going dark on my XV.
When I am reading the circiut diagram correctly then th
The 160m option is installed.
Everything is working fine.
Ian
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FOR SALE:
1) K1-4 SN 1861 Built, aligned and working for 40-30-20-17m with 80 KHz
spread. Includes:
KNB1 Noise blanker
KAT1 Auto tuner
KBT1 Internal battery adapter (with RC type connectors so tops may be
swapped easily)
KTS1 Wide-Range Tilt Stand
QSK Thump and AGC improvement mods.
Finger D
Ron,
here you remind me of one of my favorite demonstrations; hopefully some
of the rest will enjoy my reminiscing.
When dummy loads such as the Heath "Cantenna" first turned up in Hamshacks,
they were a luxury item intended to replace the standard dummy load of the
day: an incandescent light
Jameco carries a variety of linear, regulated supplies in different
amperages and voltages. They look like "wall warts" but they are not,
provided you make sure you are ordering a linear regulated supply, and
not an unregulated swticher.
Here is the relevant catalog page off their website:
ht
Steve K4JPM wrote:
"...a number of years ago I noticed my Heath Cantenna was giving me a
slightly higher SWR reading instead of 1 to 1. When I measured it with a
VTVM I found it was 40 ohms, not the original 50 ohms when I built it 25 or
so years ago. I posted this on the Heath users Email list an
Just a thought on dummy loads, a number of years ago I noticed my Heath
Cantenna was giving me a slightly higher SWR reading instead of 1 to 1.
When I measured it with a VTVM I found it was 40 ohms, not the original 50
ohms when I built it 25 or so years ago. I posted this on the Heath users
Email
Ron, Don
thanks for the notes and explanation.
I went back and set the U2 Pin 5 back to 3.8, monitored
this voltage as I changed R1, did the AGC ON/OFF while I stepped
down the voltage until I couldn't hear
no difference at about 3.70vdc.
RF gain back to normal.
Much appreciated.
take care.
-
Edward R. Breneiser wrote:
I finally have my Palm 105 controlling my Elecraft K2! Yes I now can
hold the tiny PDA in my hand and change bands, frequencies, and send
programmed massages such as CQ, Mycall, Exchange, His Call, TU and ?. I
can also log and dupe check with the PDA at the same time. A
Fernando,
Yes, I would say that 3.37 volts is a bit too low, and yes it will make a
difference in how the RF Gain responds - both the RF Gain control and the
AGC adjustment pot are in the same resistive network (no active devices
involved) - it is a 2 legged resistor network with the RF Gain in on
If your external battery voltage goes below the internal battery
voltage, the internal batteries will start draining.
i left my KX1 on for a few days and after i ran down the external battery the
internal batteries took over and became totally discharged.
These were the expensive Lithium "AA" Pri
Fernanco, N2FQ wrote:
Awhile back there was some mail about the AGC Mod on the K2. Specifically,
adjusting R1 on the Control board.
My K2 had a fixed resistor so I replaced it with a 20 turn
50k one. I also followed the write up about how to adjust it for apparent
equal noise with AGC ON/OFF.
Wo
Hello everyone.
Awhile back there was some mail about the AGC Mod on the K2.
Specifically, adjusting R1 on the Control board.
My K2 had a fixed resistor so I replaced it with a 20 turn
50k one. I also followed the write up about how to adjust it
for apparent equal noise with AGC ON/OFF.
Worked
That's right, Alan. You can safely connect an external power supply with the
internal batteries installed. The KX1 will draw power from whichever has the
higher voltage, the internal battery or the external power supply.
Of course, that will be the external supply normally, unless you are using a
It's possible that those indications are accurate and related, but not
necessarily so. Most wattmeters show total forward (including reflected)
power, so if the reflected power goes up as the incident power goes
down, the total remains the same. If your external wattmeter shows
actual delivered
Hallo Jonathan,
I have done the calibration last weekend and I am getting a SWR of 1.0-1 on all
bands. I have used the
build in dummy load of my MFJ 949E antenna tuner. I would blame the dummy load
too.
You can maybe carefully use a tuned antenna at low power levels just to verify?
Regards
M
Jonathan,
Those indications may be indeed correct. To properly answer the question,
check your dummy load with an antenna analyzer first.
73,
Don W3FPR
> -Original Message-
>
> I have just completed the Power Calibration (R26 andf R27) on my
> KPA100. The SWR shows 1.0-1 on 40 and 80M,
I have just completed the Power Calibration (R26 andf R27) on my KPA100. The
SWR shows 1.0-1 on 40 and 80M, but then goes up from there. It is 1.5-1 on 10m
and power output as indicated on my external power meter shows power declining
as the SWR is increasing. I am using an MJF 264 dummy load
Yes, that man need an "r" but you better help the man with his K2 problems instead of spilling your energy in detecting typo
mistakes.
73,
Johan - on4aeb
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Dear all,
I have a minor mechanical problem with one of the spring clips of the
KPA100
Shielding, which should enshure good electrical contact with the K2
case.
The spring clip at the rear side od the shielding is colliding with
RFC10, which
is soldered between the antenna connector and ground.
Brian, ship that man an "r!"
...post-band, of course.
L/4832
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Hi,
I am running my KX1 off of a 12 Volt supply right now and leaving the
batteries in the unit.
I assume the purpose of D2 and D3 is to isolate the power jack from the
batteries when power is applied to the Jack?
Sure looks like it.
73
Alan
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