Steve - Most likely a magnetic field problem.
I had a similar experience. I've learned to keep the Titan II and its huge
transformer at least 2 feet from the K2 when it is turned on etc.
But I got caught recently with a Radio Shack giant LED 24 hour clock. It is
the same width as the K2
Hi all,
Thanks for the feedback on my problem. I had just inserted a wattmeter
between my KAT100 and KPA100 in the EC2 case. So I immediately suspected
that. But when I removed it the buzz remained. The Astron VS-35M is close
to my EC2 but never had a problem before. I was about to run the
My plans to get a K2/100 continue full speed ahead. Omni V.9 is up on
e-bay and I'm in the process of getting my ducks in a row before I pull
the trigger and commit to a particular rig (new or used is TBD).
But what about the PS? Which one should I get? Should I go with the
less costly Astron
John,
Although I have no 'hands-on' info about the Proset K2 or Handi Mic, I have
been using for about 2 years a ' genuine ' Heil Proset Plus Heasdset / boom
mic (HC4 and HC5 elements) with my K2/100 and other rigs. With the mic about
3 inches from my mouth, my K2/100 #3255 delivers 100w PEP
Darwin,
I use a deep discharge battery I bought from Wal=Mart
and put a smart trickle charger, such as the Battery
Minder to keep it charged. This provides an excellent
stable voltage that is essentially isolated from
commercial power and you also are all set for
emergency, if needed. I've used
Darwin, Keith wrote:
My plans to get a K2/100 continue full speed ahead. Omni V.9 is up on
e-bay and I'm in the process of getting my ducks in a row before I pull
the trigger and commit to a particular rig (new or used is TBD).
But what about the PS? Which one should I get? Should I go with
A 35 Amp supply is *way* over-kill for a K2/100. A 20 amp supply provides
all the power you need at 100 watts with several amps to spare to run other
things. My K2/100 draws, typically 16 amps wide open on the bands
requiring the highest current.
That's why Elecraft specs a 20 amp supply for
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
A 35 Amp supply is *way* over-kill for a K2/100. A 20 amp supply provides
all the power you need at 100 watts with several amps to spare to run other
things. My K2/100 draws, typically 16 amps wide open on the bands
requiring the highest current.
Well...actually some
Vic,K2VCO wrote:
Well...actually some K2/100's draw more power. Mine does take up to 20
amps on some bands. The 35-amp Astron runs all kinds of things in my
shack and is also usable with another transceiver that I have that does
take more current.
-
Hmmm... Did
The advantages of the switchers are: physically lighter and smaller,
smaller or no magnetic field. Disadvantage: possible electrical noise
generation.
Many people will tell you that such-and-such a switcher is totally
quiet. This seems to vary by particular unit.
My Alinco DM-330MV
Hi Elecrafters,
When I turn the AGC to off pushing pre/att and agc
together, the display reads off, but the audio mutes
and s-meter goes to maximum .
I reheated the solderings on U1 C10 and D2.
Voltage on U1 pin 2 is 1.44V when agc slow or fast
and 0.52V when agc is off
The other side of D2 , the
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Hmmm... Did you increase the 20 amp fast-blow fuse size Elecraft specifies,
Vic?
I'm using a Rigrunner power strip and I have a 25 amp fuse in the K2's slot.
If you are really drawing 20 amps (or more), that suggests some issues with
your output bandpass filters.
Hi Elecrafters,
For field operations with a KX/40.30.20m, I currently use a 28 feet random
wire at the end of a 22 feet pole, and an single 16 feet radial on ground.
The computed impedance is 89 - j 341 ohms at 7 MHz, matched by the
KXAT1.
However, at the low end of 80 m, it should be around
Only if you roughly triple all of the L and C values in the ATU. This
would of course sacrifice tuning performance on the higher bands. A
better alternative would be to either use a longer wire on 80 m, or
insert an inductance in series with the wire. Some experimentation will
be required.
Until I get the KX1-8030 installed this is just speculation - so FWIW.
I have ordered the Altoids Longwire Antenna Tuner from www.qrpkits.com.
For $30 you get a small L network tuner with a max 16uh and 270pf. As is,
the cap is only at the output end, but that can be made switchable
to put it
Has anyone experimented with replacing the main tuning knob on the KX1 with
buttons? I think I'm going to buy the KX1 to take on my camping trips with
me but I looks like that tuning knob almost doubles the height of the entire
unit. Since the knob is just an encoder would it be possible to
Hi Joe:
Sounds exactly like the problem I had with 5196. The problem was fixed by
replacing X1 on the Control Board. You will probably find that CtrlBd-U2-1
goes to about 6 volts when you turn the AGC OFF virtually shitting down the
IF amplifier. I encourage you to communicate with Gary
([EMAIL
Obviously, I meant shutting down :-(.
Also, Joe, I should mention that you should check and double check component
placement and value as well as check all solder joints.
73, Ken K3IU
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken K3IU
Sent:
Hello,
Currently I'm available to start another Elecraft kit ... either a new
kit, or one you might have already started and perhaps had second thoughts.
You've probably seen me on the Builder-for-Hire site
http://www.elecraft.com/k2_builders.htm. Visit my home page at
Vic Rosenthal wrote:
Well...actually some K2/100's draw more power. Mine does take up to 20
amps on some bands.
.
Hi Vic,
Well I also opted for a 35A 'linear' supply for my K2/100 because I did not
want the
WANTED: K2/100. I'm in the market for a basic K2/100. Interested in
SSB, DSP or AF. Not very interested in ATU, NB, IO, Battery etc. (at
least not yet). High serial number preferred. Non-smoker a must.
Looking to spend less then kit-cost for the rig (sorry :-).
Reply off-list to ---
I have several Astron power supplies. Always have used them. What are they ?
Are they switchers are what. I will admit I have never known. I do know they
are quiet.
Al'
W4ABW
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Hello!
I can't adjust right voltage (6 Volts) on R30 by L30.
On 4000kHz and 7300kHz DC=7.95V and L30 no turn more.
On another friquencies DC on R30 is right: 1.5VDC7.5V
All capasitors and diodes was soldered by it nominal.
T5 transformer are Ok. It have 16red turns and 4green turns.
I don't know
On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 08:10:12 -0800, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
A 35 Amp supply is *way* over-kill for a K2/100. A 20 amp supply provides
all the power you need at 100 watts with several amps to spare to run other
things. My K2/100 draws, typically 16 amps wide open on the bands
requiring the highest
Alexander,
The most likely problem is a solder short on the thermistor board in the RP3
position on the RF Board. A quick indicator is to measure the voltage at RF
Board U6 pin 5 - if it is not veery close to 4 volts, then surely there is a
problem on the thermistor board.
Several other things
Hello all!
I will be bringing some special Polar Bear QSL Cards to Atlanticon 2006.
If anyone had a Polar Bear QSO with me and wants one, just give me a
piece of paper with the qsl info on it and I'll fill out your card at my
table. For a look at the card go to the link below.
On Feb 27, 2006, at 8:56 AM, Craig Rairdin wrote:
The advantages of the switchers are: physically lighter and smaller,
smaller or no magnetic field. Disadvantage: possible electrical
noise
generation.
Many people will tell you that such-and-such a switcher is totally
quiet. This seems
I've recently completed K2 5336 but only today connected a properly
resonant antenna on 40m.
The results surprised me. With the pre-amp on the receiver suffers
from serious overload and intermodulation and 40m - a problem that
does not occur with the same set up on my FT1000MP. I've played
Craig - I had that supply. On 80 M I could hear hash every 25khz or so.
There was a knob to alter the switching supply frequency. It worked but was
something else to keep in mind while operating. When I am pounding brass
with someone, I like my rig to be as transparent as possible. Thats why I
I've been moving things around in the shack and have been particularly annoyed
with the noise from the KPA100 fan when it's on high. I don't think this is
new, just that I notice it more with the rig a bit closer.
Is there a way to make the fan quieter?
Is it just me and my fan or are they
Just some comments on power supplies for the K2 and KPA100, I have my K2 in
its own case with the KPA100, and KAT100 in a separate EC2 case. I run the
K2 and KAT100 off a Tripp Lite PR10 (7.5A continuous 10A ICS)power supply
and the KPA100 off a Astron 20A (16A continuous 20A ICS) power supply.
I am just finishing a K2/100 and I am ready to build a radio for you. The
turnaround time is about 3 weeks for a K2 and less for smaller kits and my
prices are reasonable. You receive a completed and aligned radio ready to
play. Send me an email if you have any questions.
73
Alan
W1HYV
The noise from a switching power supply comes in via the antenna, so if
the antenna is located suitably distant, the P.S. can be located next to
the rig and you won't hear the noise.
All switchers generate noise to some degree. For those that say their
switcher dosen't, they should locate
Ball bearing and similar fans have a longer life with quiet than sleeve
bearing fans. You might check out the offerings from Mouser in small fans.
-Stuart
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Vic wrote:
One other thing to keep in mind is that a slightly reactive load -- even
with a reasonable SWR -- may change the current draw significantly. I
think this was my issue, actually. Some band on which the antenna's SWR
was about 1.4:1 nevertheless drew much more current than the dummy
Hello,
although I did not manage to get the KPA100 built in time,
DK0SU (Operator DF7TV) will participate in EQP 2006 again.
Hope to hear a lot of you and hope you'll hear my QRP signal
using DK0SU's X7 beam / V80S vertical.
If you like to plan a sked during the party -- I'll be qrv on the
I just bought K2 s/n 3641. It's in good shape, but suffers from the
dreaded 'low audio'. Sidetone volume is loud enough - I wouldn't
like to operate at 255, but it wouldn't drive me from the room,
either (might damage my hearing with headphones).
I decided to go through the alignment
Chris,
I did not suggest changing the spacing on T5 to change the PLL range!!! If I
said that, it must have been a typo, and I retract it.
Changing anything on T5 will not change the PLL range. If you want to
tighten up the range a bit, you can change the black (shielded) inductor L31
on the
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