I am progressing on my K2 project, I just finished the steps on page
57 that had me solder several components to the bottom side of the
RF board. My problem is getting my cutters into some of the tight
places on the top of the board. I thought the hard part was over when
I finished solder
Lee:
I am progressing on my K2 project, I just finished the steps on page
57 that had me solder several components to the bottom side of the
RF board. My problem is getting my cutters into some of the tight
places on the top of the board. I thought the hard part was over when
I finished solder
I found, to do neat Bottom devices - I would pre-bend
device leads ahead of time. And I would then trim
devices leads, so that they extended just enough up
and above the PCB board's top surface before I
installed device. Then carefully hold the device
against the PCB board's bottom surface - and
Here's a different approach. Don't sweat it.
If you can't get down there with a small pair of cutters, then the
excess lead isn't going to produce any poke wounds in your hands as you
handle the board. Get as close as you can and leave what you can't
I recall some difficulty when I built my K2
"I opened the top lid, to add filters - and was
amazed to see the technology they are pouring
into these rigs. Must be hundreds of SMT's and
lentil-sized micro variable C's - just packing
the 1 or 2 upper boards in 706. As a builder of
many "kits" - have to say, in 2006 - I'm amazed
at what they
Lee,
I do not pre-trim the leads (but that is an excellent way to avoid the
problem), but in places where it is tight to get the cutters in, I bend the
lead over and point the cutter tips straight down toward the board to clip
the lead. It is not quite flush cut, but it is close to the solder pad
The following is from a NASA-certified solderer ... me. (:-))
Contrary to the belief/practice of many, component leads
protruding through a solder pad should NEVER be cut off
flush with the board. They should be cut off at a length that
is several diameters of the wire ... at least ... above the
-Original Message-
From: Ken Kopp
The following is from a NASA-certified solderer ... me. (:-))
Contrary to the belief/practice of many, component leads protruding
through a solder pad should NEVER be cut off flush with the board. They
should be cut off at a length that is several diam
At 09:30 AM 10/23/2006, Ken Kopp wrote...
>The following is from a NASA-certified solderer ... me. (:-))
>
>Contrary to the belief/practice of many, component leads protruding through a
>solder pad should NEVER be cut off flush with the board. They should be cut
>off at a length that is several
Sorry about the space, but I know a few folks had the
TT Corsair (not II) before getting an Elecraft.
A friend has a problem with his rig. I suspect it is a
VFO/PTO problem. The last four digits on every band
jump all over the place, form the sounds of the audio,
the rig is running all over the fr
The NASA wonks are correct in their citation of construction practices.
However, as hams we like to know "why" as well as "thou shalt not": In
this case the bad thing being avoided is called "cold-working". The
solder used to solder parts is an alloy of two of more metals, which
arrange themselves
Old fingernail clippers sometimes work.
Geoff, K6TFZ
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J F wrote:
Sorry about the space, but I know a few folks had the
TT Corsair (not II) before getting an Elecraft.
A friend has a problem with his rig. I suspect it is a
VFO/PTO problem. The last four digits on every band
jump all over the place, form the sounds of the audio,
the rig is running al
I will be building a K2, all options, that was originally purchased in 2004.
Are
there modifications that I need to do? Firmware that needs to be updated? I
assume that I should use the current construction manuals. Will I find parts
changes? What else should I look for?
--
John Kitchens, NS6
Hi Folks,
I'm back from a two year bout with various health issues. During my absence,
something changed on the control board leaving C44 grounded on one end and the
other end is connected to nothing and no part to put in the holes.
I apologize if this was discussed before, and it's great to b
Hi,
Bill K4DXU mentioned the changes to L16 and RFC1 in the latest
revision of the KPA100 and he is correct about those two, but there are
more changes and deletions, and anyone wanting to bring their earlier model
KPA100 would probably do better to wait for the official information to be
I was reading about KPA100 shield upgrade. I noticed the speaker shield and
was wondering if there was any benefit to a K2? Especially one without the
vco shield mod? Any thoughts??
Richard Kent K2 5296
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On Mon, 23 Oct 2006 11:10:35 -0700, "William M. Spaulding, SR"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Hi Folks,
>
>I'm back from a two year bout with various health issues. During my absence,
>something changed on the control board leaving C44 grounded on one end and the
>other end is connected to nothing
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