Kristina Wright wrote:
I'm putting together my KAT2 and having trouble with the Bridge Null
Adjustment (pg 16). When I first went through it, it worked fine
until
step four on page 17, where I got well under the specified 3 or 4
volts. So I pulled it apart, checked everything, and reflowed T1
Hello group!
I'm putting together my KAT2 and having trouble with the Bridge Null
Adjustment (pg 16). When I first went through it, it worked fine until
step four on page 17, where I got well over the specified 3 or 4
volts. So I pulled it apart, checked everything, and reflowed T1. Now
Hello group,
I'm needing a tuner for use with my K2, and wanted to know the pros
and cons of the KAT2 vs. the T1. Is the only difference that the T1 is
stand-alone and the KAT2 is internal? Thanks in advance for your advice.
73,
Kristina KE7LUC
On Aug 9, 2007, at 2:41 PM, Julian G4ILO wrote:
there is little I actually use the
computer for that really needs XP, and I loathe Vista.
I think we could save far more if we weren't forced to use ever
more bloated software
demanding ever more powerful PCs
While I don't like to
Hi there, I'm not an elmer but I just wanted to drop a note that
torrids aren't really that hard to wind. Just stick the wire through
the hole the specified number of times, then strip the leads by
passing them through a blob of solder on your soldering iron. I found
it to be quite easy
Greetings to all,
I know this question has been asked on here before, but unfortunately
I didn't pay attention to what was said, and I can't seem to find it
in the archives. I was attempting to do the 40 meter alignment but
when I pressed tune (after setting the power for 2.0 W) it wasn't
Many thanks to all who replied to my question. What happened was that
while I was putting T4 on, I overheated the 7-8 winding and it melted
through the insulation of the 3-4 winding, therefore shorting it. So
I just rewound it and it works!
Thanks again!
73,
Kristina KE7LUC
Hi all,
In building my K2 everything has gone perfectly and without a hitch
until I got to the Alignment and Test, Part III. When I try to turn
it on there's an audio pop but nothing on the LCD display and no
relays clicking. It worked just fine before I installed the
transmitter part.
Nothing I can see looks to be shorted. And yes I checked the
collectors of Q7 and Q8 and it was 1.6 k ohms, so the problem doesn't
seem to be there. I'll go fiddle with it some more.
Kristina, KE7LUC
On 5/24/07, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kristina,
It sounds like you have created a
OK, here's what I've done so far: checked the resistance from the
power plug to ground, the meter read infinite resistance. Also checked
the voltage at the same and got 12 volts. Then I measured the voltage
at the cathode end of D10 and got 12 volts with the power switch on
and off, but at D12 I
Hello all,
I am needing a mic for my new K2. So I was wondering if anyone had
one that they aren't using anymore and would part with? Reply off
list if you have any thing.
Thanks!
73,
Kristina, KE7LUC
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Hi all!
I just finished building my front panel and had some problems with
the resistance checks. On J1 pin 1 through pin 7, also pins 13 14
the meter registers absolutely nothing. All of the rest of them are
just fine.
Anyone have any suggestions??
Thanks,
Kristina
Hi all,
I was recently doing inventory on my new K2, and on page 5 of the RF
section I found a slight discrepancy. In the description of RFC4,
RFC5, RFC8, RFC9, and RFC7, it says they have green bodies. However
mine have the same color bands but have tan bodies. Will this make
any
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