I have a KX-1 that I use portable. Recently I took it into the woods and had
some issues with the power shutting off. I took it apart this weekend and
traced the issue to the J1 DC power connector. It is soldered solidly to the
PCB but the pin inside it is loose. When the power cable moves
Kevin makes a good point...it can be tough to slow down with paddles. I am NO
expert on the topic but am finally getting up to 20wpm copy and sending.
However, I would like to slow down and work other people coming along. That
was me just a short time ago.
Is it easier to go slow on a
I appreciate all the help on getting the pads to stick better on the KXB30
board. I took care of that and the saga continues. I need just a bit more
help.
I put the pads on the board and put the radio back together as instructed.
Hooked up the DMM in series with the power and turned it on.
Don,
Thanks for the quick response and I was hoping component leads were going to
work. I had just cut a few to the appropriate length when your email came in.
I will go ahead and use them.
I will check out the PC trace ASAP. I did get the radio back together as a
20/40M rig with the
I have a question about installing a KXB30 into my KX-1, but first...a little
story about how much I like this radio. Compared to most of you I am a rookie
at the building and operating in CWbut I do enjoy it. I have had the base
20/40 meter KX1 built for a while. Most of my contacts have
As you probably have seen on the list, I recently completed my KX1 rig and am
enjoying it very much. It has taken over the operating spot in my modest
shack. (The Icoms are getting lonely.)
I have been hearing very high levels of noise on 40M. Some of them have known
causes such as a
Hello,
I am taking advantage of this holiday time to complete the ATU and 30M board
for my KX1. I have a quick question about the ATU install before I solder it
in place.
I just installed the P1, P2 and P3 connectors and wonder if I took the must be
fully seated warning in the directions a
I know it's bad form to reply to your own message, but I think I just found my
own answer in the Errata sheet. It sounds like that gap is ok to be there
So now the question is, how big should the gap be so that I can get it back?
73 de Keith KB3ILS
Don,
I was sure that I read 0.9mV on the DMM...but I have made plenty of mistakes
along the way...so I went and double-checked. Yep0.9mV. I guess it is in
good shape.
I hooked it up to my attic dipole and tuned up on 20M and get a reading of 4.2
watts and a SWR of 1.1. I made one
This is a bit embarrassing. I did the solder reflow for the MCU and it got
back to normal as I posted in my other email.
A few minutes later..it did it again but this time I had it hooked up to a
tuner and saw the lights flashing on the tuner like it was trying to transmit.
Huh? What was
I recently built a KX1 and it went together smoothly with no real problems. I
made a few QSO's and it seemed to work just fine.
I turned it on today and it is acting up on me. I was on battery power and
switched to a power supply to see if that helped, but no luck.
It is a basic 20M/40M unit
Elecraft KX1 #01638 is up and running. Some basic testing of the 20M and 40M
bands into a watt meter show that I am getting the expected 3-4 watts out. I
will do more testing once I get the ATU built and installed.
The build went great and there were no real problems except that I put one cap
I am in the process of putting together the Elecraft KX1. I have done a few
kits before (SWL rigs etc.)but would not be considered a great builder. I have
been working on the kit as time permits for the past weekand I have to say
that so far it is going great. The Elecraft directions are
I have an Elecraft T1 ATU that I am trying to make work with a Wilderness Radio
QRP rig. I am new to using ATU's and have what might be a simple question: Am
I doing it right?
I made an end-fed antenna that is often called the W3EDP antenna. 85 feet long
with a 17ft counterpoise. I hooked it
Thanks to everyone who provided advice on my antenna
question.
My Elecraft balun kit showed up today and I am going to get it
built. I will try out of some of the ideas from this message
thread and hopefully get some good outside operating in over
the next month. I think I have everything I
Craig,
Thanks for the info. I checked out the Elecraft baluns you
mention and will order one up. This sounds like a reasonable
size setup for the times when I can get up a center pole to
support the antenna. Is there a preferred height for the apex
or do I just go as high as I can?
I do
Don,
Right now my feedline length is 0. I have not built the antenna
yet. I work about 20 mins from HRO and hope to swing over
there at lunch. I have seen ladder line there before.
It sounds like the 22 feet per side is a common length that
works for people. I will start with that. It
I have an Elecraft T1 ATU and am looking for some simple
antenna ideas for using it with my QRP rigs including my
Wilderness Radio Sierra and SWL-20. I am new to this outdoor
portable QRP operations...so I apologize if the questions seem
very basic.
I would like a setup that uses the T1 and
Stuart,
Thanks for the quick response. For a field dipole I could use
that in an inverted V format I assume? I did purchase a
collapsable pole to try some of those out. If I used ladder line
or twinleadwould I need a balun in-line before connecting to
the T1?
If I understood you
Hello,
I am a fairly new builder. I have been doing some soldering on
and off for about a year. I managed my way through a NorCal
keyer and a SWL 20+. I have a few more kits here to build
and practice on...then I hope to order up a K1.
Right now I am working on a T1 ATU kit. I am at the
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