I suggest that you label the ends with extra labels close to the SO-239
jacks with "in" and "out" or something else meaningful to you before
opening the box.
A labeler does a nice job, but a Sharpie marker will be effective as well.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/27/2017 6:56 PM, Nr4c wrote:
I suggested
I suggested to Elecraft as soon as I got mine, that the label should be on the
other part of the case.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Aug 27, 2017, at 12:21 PM, Bob via Elecraft
> wrote:
>
> And if your a typical ham curiosity will have you opening the minibox to see
> what makes i
- Original message From: MaverickNH
Date: 8/27/17 10:55 (GMT-06:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re:
[Elecraft] [P3] P3TXMon Wattage/SWR
I found a manual 4-way switch that should work nicely. Thanks Don.
Bret/N4SRN
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And if your a typical ham curiosity will have you opening the minibox to see
what makes it tick. Having done that the U box lid can be put on wrong so the
labeling is incorrect.
Learned that on my own
73,
Bob
K2TK ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR
On 8/27/2017 5:36 AM, Harlan Sherriff via Elec
Is it the same sensor that is used with the W2 power meter? If so, can one
sensor drive both devices?
Glenn WB5TUF
Original message From: MaverickNH
Date: 8/27/17 10:55 (GMT-06:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re:
[Elecraft] [P3] P3TXMon Wattage/SWR
I found a
I found a manual 4-way switch that should work nicely. Thanks Don.
Bret/N4SRN
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__
Bret,
Yes, get a 2nd P3TXMON and get a switch to change the RJ-45 cable
between the two sensors. The switch will likely be a manual one.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/27/2017 8:34 AM, MaverickNH wrote:
And while I'm at it, is there a way to put a P3TXMON on both ANT1 and ANT2?
___
And while I'm at it, is there a way to put a P3TXMON on both ANT1 and ANT2?
Bret/N4SRN
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Yep - LOAD to Antenna. That's what I thought should be correct. So why I
installed it backwards last August, I'll never know! I just reversed it.
Numbers look spot on now. *And* I see the UPS I'm using appears to limit
output if I exceed the power draw specification. I just installed the
software
The antenna connects to the "load" connector.
Harlan
K4HES
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 27, 2017, at 3:06 AM, MaverickNH wrote:
>
> Possible - which side should LOAD be connected...K3S or Antenna?
> Bret/N4SRN
>
>
>
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Possible - which side should LOAD be connected...K3S or Antenna?
Bret/N4SRN
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Any chance the sensor unit is hooked up backwards? (i.e. transmitter
connector to antenna and vice versa)
Alan N1AL
On 08/24/2017 03:07 AM, MaverickNH wrote:
K3S100/KAT100 rig with P3, P3SVGA and P3TXMON Directional Coupler 200W.
When TX at 100W, on 80m for example, the PEP on the P3 shows
Hi Don,
My mistake - yes, the internal ATU option for K3S is installed. I'll try as
you suggested and report back. Thanks!
Bret/N4SRN
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Bret,
The most common cause of a high SWR is 1) you do not have the right
antenna selected or 2) you have a bad (or loose) coax jumper or a coax
fault in the coax to your antenna.
What happens if you do not connect the TX Monitor coupler in the coax chain?
There is a remote possibility that
K3S100/KAT100 rig with P3, P3SVGA and P3TXMON Directional Coupler 200W.
When TX at 100W, on 80m for example, the PEP on the P3 shows 2.4W PEP on the
120W scale and SWR is full scale at 99.0.
I have put a Bird43 at my antenna base and verified 64W just before the
SG-235 remote ATU on my 43ft Verti
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