tment will lead to cracks in the via and potential failure down
stream.
>From one who is long in the tooth.
Mel, K6KBE
--- On Tue, 8/18/09, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
From: Ron D'Eau Claire
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Another quick question about solder...
To: elecraft@mailman.q
Eric, WA6HHQ wrote:
Our primary concern is with the water-soluble flux solder, which leaves
a conductive residue on hand soldered boards.
---
Also some water-soluble fluxes remain corrosive at *room temperature* until
they are removed from the board, and
We've gotten into cleaning vias so much I should point out that it is NOT
necessary to clean out the via to do a good job. A clean via just makes
things a little easier.
First, you do not need to pre-assemble the resistor/diode pairs like the
Preliminary and Rev A instructions described (The Rev
Rosin core tin/lead solder is perfectly OK to use on any of our boards,
RoHs or not, for mods.
Our primary concern is with the water-soluble flux solder, which leaves
a conductive residue on hand soldered boards.
Other no-clean solders are OK as long as they do not use water soluble
fluxes. It
In a pinch... You can put some flux on the braid from a small coax
such as RG174 and use it to
wick up the solder.
73,
Bob
K2TK
James Sarte wrote:
> Hi Ron,
>
> I do have one of those little manual solder suckers, but I can never seem to
> get the technique down right when it comes to using i
Hi Ron,
I do have one of those little manual solder suckers, but I can never seem to
get the technique down right when it comes to using it. Always seems the
solder hardens before I get chance to suck it out, hihi.
I probably should have ordered some braid to go with my solder, but alas I
forgot
A good "solder sucker" is also an excellent investment, as is some narrow
desoldering braid and a little rosin flux, either in a pen or small bottle.
Although elegant, the powered solder suckers are not necessary. A good
spring-loaded unit will do the job 99% of the time. They sell for US $10 to
Hi Paul,
I have an Aoyue 937+ digital solder station. I bought it from SRA for
around $50. It's a great value compared to the Weller units. It's also ESD
protected. I'll use the same anti-static mat I used to assemble my K3 when
it's time to perform the mods.
Anyway, I just ordered Kester 285
> Anyway, I'm about to nervously perform the VFO noise mod and jumper mod to
> my K3. I'm not looking forward to it. I have soldered other things
> together like the repair work on my SB-220, but I've never been happy with
> the quality of my solder.
Practicing on a scrap PC board with "vias" ma
Thanks Don, and everyone else that replied!
I'm not that good with a soldering iron. I am learning though. My father
on the other hand (who happens to be a retired electrical engineer) was a
genius with a soldering iron... I probably should have paid more attention
to what he was teaching me whe
James,
I would suggest that using the non-cored solder might be 'tricky' (but
then I don't know your experience or skill level). You may want to get
a rosin flux pen and experiment with it, but if it were me, I would get
the spool of Kester 285 for general use and be done with it.
I am not su
Per Elecraft's soldering notes/suggestions:
Kits submitted for repair which HAVE been assembled using No-Clean or
Water-Soluble fluxes
MAY be refused service..!
Yet in the same PDF, they have a list of recommended solder. Kester 245 is
one of them and happens to be a no-clean MA solder.
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