Some brands of solder wick come was pre-filled with flux and have a
waxy feel. I recall when I was working in an electronics lab in the
1960s, we had little bottles of liquid flux with an eyedropper-type
syringe attached to the cap. It was easy to apply just a drop or two.
Bob, N7XY
On Jan 23, 2008, at 7:12 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I find solder wick works much better if you wet it first with flux:
I use a flux pen from Chemtronics #CW8100
David
G3UNA
From: "Jeremiah McCarthy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: 2008/01/23 Wed PM 03:13:07 GMT
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Solder and flux
I solder at 800F with a Weller temp-controlled iron and have a
little
tub of "Kesler 44" rosin flux on the bench. When reheating a joint I
take an Exacto knife with the number 11 blade(the pointed
triangular one
that is also good for removing splinters, self-mutilation, etc.) and
just dip the point about 1 or 2 mm into the goo...about as much as a
pile and a half of fly poop...if you are familiar with that... and
apply
it to the soldering point before heating.<<
An excellent method...In the absence of rosin flux, remember that
fresh solder contains flux...Reheat the reluctant joint with a
clean, hot iron then just TOUCH the tip-joint juncture with fresh
solder and the joint will quickly liquify, allowing whatever
rework is necessary, be it the removal of excess solder or
eliminating a cold joint...
Having better means at my disposal, I seldom use solder wick, but
I find that it works best if you lay the wick down over the joint,
place the clean, hot iron on top of that, and then add a dab of
fresh solder...Wait a second or two for things to flow and the
wick will usually suck up all the excess...
Jerry, wa2dkg
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Bob Nielsen
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