Ah yes. Thank you Don. Clearly I've been working too far past my bed time.
73,
Joe
On Jun 11, 2010, at 12:21 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Joe,
>
> Cutting the tip off the stem bumper is not drastic at all, and is exactly
> what is called for in the instructions. See the first step on page 60 of
Joe,
Cutting the tip off the stem bumper is not drastic at all, and is
exactly what is called for in the instructions. See the first step on
page 60 of the K2 manual in the right column.
With the stem bumper cut, you can then press down on the resistor body
to tighten the fastenings for L33.
Mike,
It is not necessary to clean the component side to get nasty stuff in
the components. If one floods or sprays the board, some of the cleaner
can and will wick to the component side through the via holes and other
openings. Having a mixture of flux and cleaner coated all over
everythin
round the crystals. Just a
torid that it may effect if excessive alcohol is used.> Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008
13:14:37 -0400> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> CC:
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 build question> > Mike and
all,> > Flu
Mike and all,
Flux residue will do no harm except under quite unusual circumstances
and it is best left as-is. The greatest 'problem' is one of aesthetics.
Attempts to remove flux can result in damage to components - the cleaner
can get into relays, inductors and cause much more harm that. Fo
I second Don's comments but noticed he missed cleaning the crystal first with
good Isoprohal alcohol (not that cheap Mad Dog 2020 either). Even the slightest
oil from your fingers will make the task harder that it should be. Don't forget
to clean of the remaining flux when your done! It makes t
On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 10:00 AM, Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> adjacent to the crystal case - the wire and the crystal should be in contact
> with each other before you start soldering.
>
> The crystal cases wick away the heat from the iron quickly.
> Use a larger tip if you have one an
Tim,
First, use a small flat screwdriver or similar tool to form the wires
adjacent to the crystal case - the wire and the crystal should be in
contact with each other before you start soldering.
The crystal cases wick away the heat from the iron quickly.
Use a larger tip if you have one and
Gary
all is well. the K2 menu has dot and bar modes, so
you can set it up for either. it will take a while to
find what all these settings are used for.
(push menu and look thru something that abbreviates
s-meter by scrolling with the main tuning knob, then
HOLD the menu button until it jumps
Gary,
You can have it either way you like - for a bar display, set the menu
GRAPH to 'BAR', for a single LED to be lighted, set it to 'DOT'
73,
Don W3FPR
Gary D Krause wrote:
I just completed the second alignment and test of the K2 and everything
checked out fine. I noticed that only the le
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of tom.w3qs
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2005 11:43 AM
To: 'Margaret Leber'
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Build Question
Hi Maggie,
Thank you so much for responding, I was afraid everyo
board is sitting on conductive foam!
73,
Mark, NK8Q
K2 4786
>From: "tom.w3qs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: Sat Jul 02 13:42:32 CDT 2005
>To: 'Margaret Leber' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Build Ques
ure!
Tom, W3QS
-Original Message-
From: Margaret Leber [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2005 11:51 AM
To: tom.w3qs
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build Question
tom.w3qs wrote:
> 1. Resistance checks for U1 pins 1 & 2 are out of spec. C
tom.w3qs wrote:
1. Resistance checks for U1 pins 1 & 2 are out of spec. Chart says 25 - 35
K for both pins. DMM reads 17 K for both. Old analog meter reads 8 - 9 K
for both.
2. Resistance checks for J1 pin 15 is out of spec. Chart says 10 - 60 K.
Analog meter reads 80 K.
Perhaps the resi
Hi Ron,
The masking material is the pieces of tape, usually green, around each
hole. I found a sharp "case cutter" edge was necessary to remove it. You
should have nice, shiny bare metal around the holes on the inside of each
panel. That will make sure you get good RF shielding. The rest o
15 matches
Mail list logo
