In any event, it's a good idea to build the basic K2 and complete all the
alignment and testing, then go on to add each option, one at a time, just in
case there is a problem. It makes locating the problem and correcting it so
much easier than having a fully-loaded rig that never worked to
troubles
On Tue, 2005-08-02 at 12:01 -0500, W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:
> To extend your question, many internal options require the removal of
> jumpers - only the KNB2 requires removal of components (3 resistors), all
> other parts are adds not replacement (unless you have an older K2).
The KSB2 requires
I just went through the process and I wouldn't worry about it. The kits
are well designed and options go in pretty easily.
On page 71 of the K2 manual (download from elecraft) you can see the steps
you would be able to save. Look at the "Installation" sections of the
option manuals (also down
Craig,
To add the KPA100 later, the answer is - nothing electrical has to be
changed - BUT there are connectors for the AUX RF and AUX 12V that have to
be installed, and the installation of the AUX RF connector requires you to
remove the K2 rear cover - not hard, but you do have to be careful abo
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