Tom,
With R6 out, and DC voltage on U4 pin 3, but 0 volts on U4 pin 1, you
certainly can suspect that U4 is toast. Unless you have a solder bridge
between U4 pins 2 and 3 *and* no connection between pins 1 and 2 - that
would be 2 failures, and we normally expect only a single failure, so a
bad
As per Gary's suggestion, I removed and rewound T1. I also reflowed all the
joints in the SWR bridge and on U4. With R6 out, I still measure 0.0 V and
with it in I'm still under 3 v. With it in, I read the same 2.4V as before.
While I can't confirm the actual output power exactly, my MFJ tuner
Tom,
The voltage at U4 pin 3 should be between 3 and 4 volts with 5 watts of
power flowing through the wattmeter section of the KAT2 *and* with the
FWD potentiometer (R1) fully clockwise.
U4 is configured as a unity gain op amp, and the voltage at the output
(pin 1)should be equal to the volta
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