I know my rotary is tiny by comparison with most of your
machines but FWIW, I cut my own brass wormwheel using a tap
running in the lathe. It took a couple of attempts before I
got the right number of teeth for what I wanted but, for
cnc, the exact ratio of the worm and wheel is probably not
t
The same procedure as Belli Button suggest is indeed standard. Two (half
height) gears mounted on top of each other and interlocking the the
driving gear to remove the play on the gearing.
Easy for standard gears or trapezoid and ball screw axis (two nuts on
one axis) but a bit more complex for
of
> engineering. We have built some fairly large '4th Axes' like this
> for not a
> great deal of money.
>
> Clear as mud?
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Kirk Wallace"
> To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)" us...@list
--- Original Message -
From: "Kirk Wallace"
To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)"
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Rotary Axis Designs
> On Mon, 2009-05-25 at 18:12 +0200, Roland Jollivet wrote:
>> What about using an AC motor reductio
When you can manage to keep the axis running in one direction the
backlash is of no factor. I like the dremel idea. I made a very simple
attachment for the Dremel and my Southbend. Beats the $1000+ for the
grinding attachment for thw three times I used it. However, I was
careful to keep that grit o
On Mon, 2009-05-25 at 18:12 +0200, Roland Jollivet wrote:
> What about using an AC motor reduction drive. They're pretty robust but I'm
> not sure about the backlash. Usually easy to find as surplus.
> Something like this;
> http://www.bonfiglioli.com/vfpres_uk.html
>
> Replace the AC motor with a
What about using an AC motor reduction drive. They're pretty robust but I'm
not sure about the backlash. Usually easy to find as surplus.
Something like this;
http://www.bonfiglioli.com/vfpres_uk.html
Replace the AC motor with a stepper.
Regards
Roland
2009/5/25 Kirk Wallace
> I need to sta
On Monday 25 May 2009, Rainer Schmidt wrote:
>Haha.. The Belt Stiffness fools many. It's a PU timing belt which is
>steel loaded. I tensioned it to 160lbs and the think sounds like a
>guitar string. There is NO flex whatsoever. If there would be... most
>cars would sink their valves into the cylind
Haha.. The Belt Stiffness fools many. It's a PU timing belt which is
steel loaded. I tensioned it to 160lbs and the think sounds like a
guitar string. There is NO flex whatsoever. If there would be... most
cars would sink their valves into the cylinders more often than not.
The ratio is 1:3 and the
Nice job!
What about the Sherline CNC rotary table?
It works great. Isn't it a great affordable product instead of reinventing the
wheel?
The reason why I am writing this post is the following: no matter how great the
hardware is, the BIG limitation lies in the CAM part.
It is time to come up
My first rotary axis was built using a harmonic drive gear box, mounted
directly on a Brushed DC motor
(http://www.franksworkshop.com.au/CNC/4thAxis/4thAxis.htm#assembly). The
gearbox is 100:1. I've only done light machining so far, but I think it
should be strong enough for my gantry mill. It i
On Sun, 2009-05-24 at 21:08 -0400, Rainer Schmidt wrote:
> There may be more elaborate versions but here is my ghetto 4th...
> http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,11044.0.htm
> It has no backlash. Those turntables are all garbage for cnc because
> of the backlash. Specially that Phase
There may be more elaborate versions but here is my ghetto 4th...
http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,11044.0.htm
It has no backlash. Those turntables are all garbage for cnc because
of the backlash. Specially that Phase II China Junk.
It all looks good and costs less but once you try
I need to start to think about making or getting a rotary axis. The
first thing that comes to mind is to adapt a servo and encoder to one of
these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260343949073
What other options should I consider, maybe start from scratch, if so
what type of dr
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