Thanks for the kind words, Robert.
Kinetta Archival in NYC (7 West 22nd Street, 6th floor) does 3.3K Kinetta scans
from any format film (which is about 5 times the resolution of HD telecine of
4:3 material pillar boxed). Note that some places offering HD telecine
actually are doing SD telecine
Hi Lyra,
I have been very pleased with the super-8 transfers done for me by Light Press,
here in Seattle:
http://lightpress.tv/super-8mm/
There telecine process works very well with cement splices.
Only problem is that, for the moment, I think there's a slow down because they
were using Alpha
Get a KINETTA transfer. Contact Jeff Kreines on this list.
Best transfer I've gotten anywhere.
There are perhaps some other competing options, but they're require
significantly bigger budgets.
For a lab style, SD or HD transfer, I've also gotten very good results from
CineLab in MA.
On Oct 3
This relatively compact "green machine" shoots 16 and 35, has a compound table,
and a custom-shorted height of 7-1/2 feet. It takes Nikon lenses and has a
follow focus cam. It's located in Columbia County, NY and will require two
strong people with a van to move. There's much more to say about t
Seeking recommendations for a good Super 8 transfer service. Color positive
with some cement splices. I have very high standards. Tell me about your
experiences.
Thanks!
-Lyra
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I do use D-76 in a class but it is all done very fast and inexactly (without
exact water temperature). More for testing and getting a glimpse of hand
processing. But I have to say that the results are pretty good. I leave the
roll negative and then transfer it to video from the projected imag
Hello Bjorn,
Thanks for your response. I didn't even think about some of the stuff you
are suggesting. It's true that what I have written has a lot to do with my
experiences, but there is an academic backbone interpreting the
relationship between independent filmmaker and projectionist and how it
Hi Daniel, We've often used D-76 in our workshops because it's half the
price of D-19 if you're buying it off the shelf (which we do). If you're
mixing your own, however, you might not have that issue and I'd have to say
all things being equal that I prefer the D-19 (just to add my voice to the
cho
Here is the formula I use, with D-19 Developer. It works very well. For
negative, skip to step 11 after step 3:
1. Water Wash
3 MINUTES
2. 1st Developer: Kodak D-19
5 MINUTES
*Save this developer, you will use it again at step 7
D76 is fine for negative processing. It was, in fact, originally designed
for hand-processing 35mm motion picture film.
D76 will get your gamma in the range of 0.6 to 0.7 if you time it right,
which is about where you want to be for a negative.
However, if you want a first developer for reversa
D76 always works great for me
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 31, 2013, at 6:17 AM, "Roger Wilson" wrote:
> Hi Daniel
>
> I prefer D19 myself and recently used the D76 because it was all I had and
> was not happy with the results. I will go back to D19.
>
>
> Roger D. Wilson
> 613 324 - 7504
>
Hi Daniel
I prefer D19 myself and recently used the D76 because it was all I had and was
not happy with the results. I will go back to D19.
Roger D. Wilson613 324 - 7504rogerdwilson@sympatico.cahttp://www.rogerdwilson.ca
Without failure you can never achieve success. I have based my process and
Has anyone any experience hand-processing Super 8 Kodak Tri-X 7266? If so,
what developer would you suggest? I mix my own D-76 and D-19. Can anyone
confirm if D-76 yields a good result? Thanks!
--
*Daniel Boos*
Moving Image Artist
+44 (0)7719 771712
d.alexanderb...@gmail.com
skype: danny.boos
__
Hi!
I'm sorry not to have any good tips, but it might help others if you offer some
more details. It seems as if your text is about your own experiences, rather
than an academical treatise? Who do you see as your potential reader? Such
information and hard details like length (number of words)
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