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lindsay
On Mon, Jun 10, 2013 at 6:29 AM, petehumble wrote:
> I've been reading this thread with interest as I really dont have much
> idea what everyone is talking about when referring to "liquid light". I've
> been trying to find out with no success.
>
Why Liquid Light? It's such a flimsy and temperamental coating, I've never
really seen it live up to any of its claims over 20 years – even on crockery.
Why don't you simply use Kodak Fine Grain Release stock (7302) - you expose it
under an enlarger, you can process in traditional bw print chemis
Thanks much to everybody for the excellent suggestions – great info! I'll
report back how it goes. We were processing in trays, and had coated acetate
film with Liquid Light* emulsion just before with spongepaintbrushes, and dried
it with hair driers.
Next we'll try:
- spraying some clear varni
I've been reading this thread with interest as I really dont have much idea
what everyone is talking about when referring to "liquid light". I've been
trying to find out with no success.
Is it home made emulsion?
Can someone explain or point me to a reference?
Thanks.
Peter humble
Sent from my
hi devon
i haven't had much luck with liquid light but in my experience (both at the
handmade film institute and on my own), with handmade emulsions, it seems
to have something to do with the gelatin content. you could try heating up
the liquid light with some extra gelatin so that it'll stick bet
Turns out that getting emulsion to stick to different bases is a problem for
Kodak, too. I had a long talk with an ex-Kodak person (soon all of them will
be ex, I'm afraid) and he said the reason some stocks weren't available on
Polyester (ESTAR) base is that the emulsions formulated for triace
> That said, Scott, have you (or anyone else) ever used
> 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane for coating film?
I admit that I have not, I have only used it for plates.
It might be worth looking in Mees' Theory of the Photographic Process and
seeing what various compounds he suggests. That is really
Devon,
There's a great deal of variables that you can adjust to try and get a
stronger bond between the liquid light emulsion and the film base. The
first step you should take is to ensure that a subbing layer
(i.e. Substratum Layer) exist for the liquid light to bond to readily.
Typically, these
Very interesting tips, Scott and Nicky, and I'm very happy to hear such
interest in coating one's own emulsion! My experience has been that it is
somewhat unpredictable, and highly influenced by temperature and humidity when
coating (you want warm humid conditions), but as Jason points out, mos
tefan
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 07:57:46 -0700
From: jihalp...@yahoo.com
To: frameworks@jonasmekasfilms.com
Subject: Re: [Frameworks] Liquid Light onto clear 16mm - any tips?
I had this problem. Robert Schaller taught me that it will work much better if
you can find some print stock, and then put th
von D
To: frameworks@jonasmekasfilms.com
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 8:53 AM
Subject: [Frameworks] Liquid Light onto clear 16mm - any tips?
Howdy,
Trying to paint "Liquid Light" photo emulsion onto clear 16mm leader. exposing
photograms etc, then hand processing. But the emulsion
What temperature are you developing at? Have you tried moving down to 65F
or so?
Are you using a tank or roller transport?
If you're using a polyester base, try an acetate base instead, which has
better adhesion.
Commercial emulsions use an adhesive layer. You could try making a really
dilute
Commercial film has an adhesive -'subbing'- layer between base and emulsion:
http://www.google.com/patents/US4213783
Nicky.
From: Devon D
Reply-To: Experimental Film Discussion List
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 09:53:26 -0400
To:
Subject: [Frameworks] Liquid Light onto clear 16mm
Howdy,
Trying to paint "Liquid Light" photo emulsion onto clear 16mm leader. exposing
photograms etc, then hand processing. But the emulsion is falling off by the
time we get to fixer. Works slightly better with clear film that has some
emulsion already on it, but not much. Anybody have any bet
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