Headline: MAGICAL BEAUTY OF GOA. By JOANNE LANE. 7 July 2002 Sunday Mercury
GOA'S Anjuna markets are one of the few places in the world where you'll find an American hippy selling handmade Australian-style didgeridoos to English tourists. This surreal experience seems tailor-made for these colourful markets in the South Indian beach state. As we arrived, a crowd of people were experimenting with his instruments and the hum and hoots could be heard above the din from the Israeli eateries and the clamour of haggling. Three million tourists flock to Goa each year and it's easy to understand why. Gleaming whitewashed churches and Portuguese-style houses dot the state as a physical witness to its former occupiers. There are old forts guarding the coastlines, lush green paddy fields, secluded beaches fringed with palm trees, lively markets and religious carnivals. Some come for the party atmosphere of the northern beaches, but others settle for the more uninhabited splendour of the south. Whatever your preference, it's a beach holiday with a difference. It's easy to forget that Goa is still part of India. It was a Portuguese enclave and Roman Catholicism is still a major religion here so there are far more churches than temples. Beggars are virtually unheard of and the locals are more liberal than most Indians. Women wear dresses rather than saris, chat freely with men and are entitled to 50 per cent of their husband's estate. Remember, though, that it is still India. You can wear bikinis and shorts but be modest. Avoid nude bathing and try to keep your beachwear to the beach. I chose Benaulim as my destination. The beach is obviously the main attraction and it's easy to spend all day here because the restaurants are actually on the sand. You only have to walk a few yards to get breakfast, lunch or dinner, and it's wonderful to sit at a table with your feet in the sand, listening to the lapping of the waves or Goan music. Seafood makes up a large part of the menu (try the kingfish) but there's also a wide selection of meats including pork, beef, fish and chicken. If it's too much effort to take those few steps to the restaurant, don't worry. Local women sell fruit on the beach, and will come over to your towel and cut up the juicy pineapples and watermelons for you. There are also people from the neighbouring state of Karnataka selling jewellery and cloth - but they'll leave you alone if you're not interested, unlike in other areas of India. Fishing is a big industry and the locals still employ traditional methods. Old wooden fishing boats dot the shores and the fishermen are very friendly. They bring in their catch in the early morning so this is a good time to get to the beach. I made a point of helping bring the boats in and many handed out fresh fish for my pains. Once you've tired of eating and lazing on the beach the easiest way to get around the flat Goan streets is on a bicycle. These cost 30 rupees a day (40p) but you can bargain the price down if you hire them for longer. The backstreets are fascinating to pedal around. Small lanes meander through tiny villages where fish have been laid out to dry in the sun, men work on their boats or nets, children play under the palm trees and women work the fields in skirts. Otherwise it's not far to Colva, which has more variety for shopping and restaurants, and Margao - the nearest big town. Pedal south and you can catch a ferry across the estuary to Betul - but if you plan to go further to the lovely Palolem beach or to a deserted fort, it's better to hire a scooter or motorbike. These cost about 200 rupees ( £2.72) per day for a scooter and 400 rupees ( £5.44) for an Enfield. Most places do not require a licence but may watch you test-drive the vehicles. So sit back, let your hair out, and zoom around. Just look out for the wild pigs and buffalo that tend to run out on to the road without warning. A network of buses services links most Goan towns if you want to try another means of transport. These are an experience - hopelessly overcrowded and bursting with deafeningly loud music. Most buses don't have their destinations marked so you'll have to listen to the money-collector calling it out as the bus drives past. Once you're outside a town, however, you'll have the bus pretty much to yourself. If all this activity sounds like too much, just head back to the beach, seat yourself within easy reach of food, put your feet in the sand and let Goa work its magic. GOA TRAVEL FILE There's an international airport near Panaji, the state's main business centre. India's domestic airlines also operate out of here. Alternatively, trains link Goa with Bombay, Delhi, Bangalore and other centres. There's a railway station at Margao, on the coast, but you may be deposited at Londa. Buses and jeeps will bring you to the coast but take several hours. Bargain hard for the jeeps. Boats also travel between Goa and Bombay. Most hotels in Goa are cheap and clean. In the smaller towns they're mostly run by families who will chat and invite you in for tea. Most cost just 100 rupees ( £1.36) per night for a double room. The best time to visit is between December and February - the Indian winter. Usually after the new year the crowds die down and you can still enjoy warm weather before it gets too hot. Goa is in the very south of India and a long way from potential conflict with Pakistan. =========================== Don't forget - you saw it on GoaNet! =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-W-E-B---S-I-T-E-=-=-= To Subscribe/Unsubscribe from GoaNet | http://www.goacom.com/goanet =================================================================== For (un)subscribing or for help, Contact: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Dont want so many e=mails? 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