I had a wretched day trying to get the chiffon to pleat yesterday. I'm leaving the dress alone for a day so that when I look at it again I won't just automatically assume it must all be started over. But I think this may be the dress where I really do, possibly using a different fabric. What I can't accept is that the original was done in crepe de chîne -- because the crepes I've worked with in the past won't pleat, either. Crepe is much too thick for this doll dress, but the chiffon -- which is very sheer, very soft, and very light (no organza stiffness to lose, but the pleats vanish when it gets damp) and which I chose because it wouldn't build up an unacceptable bulk, as well as because it's iridescent, might just be the wrong cloth. I may try starching a couple of test pieces and seeing if that's an answer -- I think with this fabric I'd want to leave the starch in anyway.
BUT Astrida's beautiful book arrived yesterday, too. So now I can, if I want to, follow her excellent and clear instructions for pleating, and use a vinegar pressing cloth to try to set them. I put a little vinegar in the spritzing water for my first attempts but nowhere near a 1:1 ratio and did not use a cloth nor let the pleats rest. So I have those to try before I throw in the towel on this one. Plus this gorgeous book! With these really nice, consistent, clearly diagrammed instructions. If this is what a Kickstarter-funded, artisan-controlled book can be like, the future could be much more fun than I've recently been imagining! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Jun 30, 2013, at 1:59 PM, Cin wrote: > A note of caution: Rinsing out the starch may also rinse out the > finish of your organza making it limp or less shiny. Test first. > --cin > Cynthia Barnes > cinbar...@gmail.com > > > On Sat, Jun 29, 2013 at 6:16 PM, Lauren Walker > <lauren.wal...@comcast.net> wrote: >> Thanks -- I was wondering how to stabilize it. Starch is a good suggestion. >> Lauren M. Walker >> lauren.wal...@comcast.net >> >> >> >> On Jun 29, 2013, at 3:39 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: >> >>> Do you starch your chiffon before working with it? That may help and after >>> it's pleated and the pleats are tacked down, you can rinse out the starch. >>> Sharon C. >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On >>> Behalf Of Lauren Walker >>> Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 9:08 AM >>> To: Historical Costume >>> Subject: [h-cost] chiffon and Astrida's book >>> >>> Oh, dear. I was just going to check in to complain that if I EVER finish the >>> current project it's going to be YEARS before I work with chiffon in 1/12th >>> scale again, and here I see Astrida has a whole book on how to really *do* >>> these embellishments where I've been winging it. I'm torn between buying a >>> copy now and waiting until I'm done with the doll project so I don't feel I >>> have to tear everything apart and start over. >>> >>> I mean, I did just pause to go order the book, because books always win. >>> >>> But I'm just about to do the "accordion" pleats (Godey's calls them >>> accordion pleats) for the skirt on the gown on the left here: >>> http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176890;view=1up;seq=511 >>> >>> for the tiny Grodnerthal doll (I've got the bodice done although there are >>> things with which I'm not satisfied so it might get done over--the pleating >>> ended up not crossing above the belt, and I'm not sure I can stand it) and >>> I'm not sure whether it would help or not to know what I am doing! >>> >>> Anyway I'm looking forward to my copy of the book! And to moving on to the >>> fourth and last outfit in the doll project, which is the one on the right in >>> this plate: >>> http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109 >>> which I'm working in a striped cotton and a sheer wool challis. Which will >>> have their own problems, but will at least not be this insanely delicate >>> chiffon. >>> By the way, Godey's calls the hat a "flat leghorn" -- looking at some other >>> hats from the late 1880s, some did not have crowns, or the crown was filled >>> in with the scarf material. Would any of you hazard a guess about this >>> particular hat? >>> >>> Thanks! I'm going to be so happy to go back to human-sized 18th-century >>> wools and linens. Fabrics you can't hurt even with a blowtorch and a hammer! >>> Lauren >>> >>> Lauren M. Walker >>> lauren.wal...@comcast.net >>> >>> >>> >>> On Jun 17, 2013, at 3:39 PM, Terry wrote: >>> >>>> I'm so excited to say that I just received Astrida Schaeffer's book >>>> Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail. I mean I JUST got it >>>> (5 minutes ago), so I've only had time to thumb through it, but it >>>> looks beautiful. Can't wait to read it! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Terry Walker >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> h-costume mailing list >>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com >>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> h-costume mailing list >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> h-costume mailing list >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> h-costume mailing list >> h-costume@mail.indra.com >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
