It's called Canadian smocking.
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php
It goes by other names as well, as this page will tell you. It is incredibly
consumptive but its well worth it. It took me a good couple of hours to
grasp how it's done; I am left handed and have to mentally invert
instructions like this. I only wish that I could document its use to the
16th c. Best as I can figure its exclusively 19th or better. I've seen it
used in several Elizabethan-era movies lately, though.
(snip)
Kathy
I'm finding a couple of Italian portraits that look as if this might have
been how the sleeves were done, only from the back. I think I've actually
seen one that has the latticework look to it, but I'm not finding it. I'll
keep looking.
http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer/z.html This looks like the back of lattice
smocking.
Melusine
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