Nope, Milt. It was Victor Allessandro, Eastman grad and the youngest
conductor of a full time orchestra back in the late 30s and 40s till
'51. I was still a student at that time, but in my senior year under
George. Ok City Symphony.
Cheers, Paul
On Friday, April 14, 2006, at 10:51 PM,
Hey Paul,
It sounds like Lucas Foss. When he was music director here we doubled
everything including the opening of the Schubert great C major.
Milton
Paul Mansur wrote:
On Friday, April 14, 2006, at 02:32 PM, John Mason wrote:
A question for those of you in the professional ranks.
Get it now before it goes up on Ebay. In as new condition with unused
backback straps. $90 obo +reasonable shipping.
Chris Tedesco
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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On Friday, April 14, 2006, at 02:32 PM, John Mason wrote:
A question for those of you in the professional ranks.
Well, in some cases, I think the Beethoven 3 is likely being played by
a rather larger orchestra than was available to Ludwig in the early
19th century. I once played it in a
Pardon the double post.
A question for those of you in the professional ranks.
I'll soon play Beethoven 3 for the first time in
almost 30 years. Back then, it was common practice
for 2nd and 3rd horn to join 1st for the big melody at
letter F in the last movement.
(I was so told by my teacher a
After years of collecting horns and playing every one I could get my
hands on I've concluded that it takes two horns to be properly equipped
to do justice to any music put before you. You need a 'big' horn to
handle large orchestral works, and a smaller, very agile horn to handle
the 'close up'
Just a point of reference in the sports car world, for example Porsche Clubs
in the US have folks competing in different type events. One set of events
is focused on the performance of the car, that is, how fast you can drive it
on a certain specified course. Another type of competition is based
Debbie Wenger wrote:
-snip-
> And yes, part of my concern is to keep the historical value
> of the horn.
The sound is what matters, and historical value is for things that sit in a
glass case somewhere. If you play the thing, make it to your liking limited
by only your good judgement and your
I want to clarify, I erred by addressing my post to Luke Zyla, but I do
appreciate the input in your response. My ramblings were meant in general
for learning horn players who do not know whether changing parts of your
horn is a good idea or not.
Other comments helped me clear my thoughts,
I just wanted to point out that the difference between Bearing and
Rotor/Piston oils is viscosity. Bearing oils tend to be much thicker, and
in some cases are un-necessary. If your horn has extremely tight valves I
suggest using rotor or piston oil on ALL surfaces - even the bearings. When
I reb
I wouldn't worry so much about fooling with leadpipes. A lot of brass players
have huge misconceptions about how easy brass repair is, and let me tell you
from an amatuer horn tinkerers experience that brass repair is in no way as big
of a deal as a lot of us think it is. Of course neither is
Sorry. Long distance analysis just doesn't work for me.
CORdially, Paul Mansur
On Friday, April 14, 2006, at 01:05 AM, christine williamson wrote:
Greetings Listers,
I need some advice!
My horn has recently started to need oiling much more frequently,
sometimes two or three times in one day
Both Allegros were written on separate & distant occasions.
They are separate movements, but put together to have no.1
Concerto. But the Eb-Concerto no.3 K.447 was the first
completed concerto & published such as op.92.
The first Allegro in D is dated end 1782, while the Rondo
Allegro 6/8 is prob
I have never had a 'gumming' problem with Al Cass oil, but it is fairly
light-weight. Al Cass is designed as a 'piston valve oil', not as a
'bearing oil' for rotary valves.
Sewing machine oil is heavy-weight and usually of very good quality. You
could try a mixture of 1 part sewing oil with 4 part
I have a K series 8D that was and is a very fine horn. Having said that, it
needed a valve job which Walter Lawson did 3 years ago. I was amazed with the
result. After the valve job the horn was better than it had ever been, even
when new. Notes centered much better, particularly in the high reg
I am not sure I understand what this means, "the two separate movements in D
(which we know today as no.1 concerto)." Were the two separate movements
put into on piece by later editors or is it all that remains of a complete
work?
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
Hello everyone and thankyou very much for all your suggestions and advice!
I'll try a change of oil first and then if there is no immediate improvement
check with a repairman.
And yes,Joe, I think you're right, I'll send it away to someone who knows about
horns, only not as far as New York! I l
Chris,
I forgot to add, that Ken and Bob aren't the only reputable repairmen that
provide quality service. There are others like Dave Weiner. If you tell this
list where you are, I'm sure they will be more than happy to direct you to
one who is close.
Regards,
Joe
-Original Message-
From
Now Chris, with advice like that why would you want to give your horn to a
local repairman who seldom works on horns? I would recommend shipping it to
someone like Ken or Bob Osmun who work on horns everyday. Get some bubble
wrap, peanuts and a large box and ship it to a qualified repairman. It is
If your valves are still clanky after oiling it probably is in need of a
valve service - which is the re-machining of the bearing plates to remove
all lateral and vertical motion. (the only motion a rotary valve should
make is just that - rotary). That being said - if it has mechanical
linkages t
At 06:51 PM 4/14/06 +0900, you wrote:
I'm going to try a change of oil (also perhaps get something a little
thicker as the valves may not be quite so snug anymore -is this a good
idea?) and I can't help wondering about the weather aspect as it has been
quite extreme recently. Maybe it will even
(Sorry for the delay in replying but I was called away suddenly as we were
going out to dinner!)
> - Original Message -
> From: "Hans.Pizka" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Well, this horn seems to have passed some years. Look at the
> linkage, if there is some "mobility" at the connections of
>
Well, this horn seems to have passed some years. Look at the
linkage, if there is some "mobility" at the connections of
the arms, where metal "clonks" metal, perhaps. If you hold
both arms & they seem to allow a bit of movement at the
connections, bring the horn to a repairman to get it fixed.
What
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